I have a 05 S type with a NA 4.2 V8 LHD with standard non leveling headlights

The passenger side H7 headlight bulb burned out today. When I attempted to replace it I discovered that the reflector is loose within the housing. When I checked the drivers side I observed the same condition. I did a bit of reading in this forum and found a lot of information on how to fix the units with the motorized self leveling headlights but not much information on the standard setup. I looked on the SNG Barrett website and catalogue and it appears that a new set of headlights will run me over $3K so I would like to attempt to repair the existing headlight units if possible. I would also consider purchasing a set of used units if these are not repairable.

1st off, how does one go about removing the headlamp assembly? Do you have to remove the front bumper cover? Can someone walk me through it?

2nd question - once I have the assembly removed from the vehicle it appears that you remove the rubber seal and the bulb covers then heat the glue that holds the lense to the housing and carefully seperate the 2 pieces. It would appear that you could now attempt to make the reflector stationary once again.

Has anyone attempted this in the past? What holds the reflector fixed against the rear housing? Is it glued in place or?

Thanks in advance for any response to my questions, This is my daily driver and this problem has me a bit perplexed at the moment.

 

Here is a great tutorial link from fellow member aholbro (Zane). It was quite the adventure a few years back and a fun read. I followed it on my S Type headlamps and worked like a charm. I think there might be a YouTube video out there by someone else but it won't be as entertaining as Zanes, I guarantee!

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...t-have-109123/

 

Here is my DIY Guide:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...er-kit-263728/

The thing I am not sure about: You say "not self leveling"... - does that still mean that you can level them from adjustment knobs on the dash board manually (as on my 04 S-Type)? In that case, my guide is just right for you.

Buying other used headlight would not help you, as they would have the same problem.

 

Peter.
My 05 S Type has manual adjusters located on each headlight assembly. There are no interior adjusters on my US spec 05 on the dash.
Hopefully they are repairable [possibly Brutul's metal screw method]. While I wait for single digit temps to rise to above freezing I'll do further research on the non self-leveling H7 Halogen edition.

 

Gerard did you not click on the link I posted from fellow member aholbro? Brutal's fix will not help your chrome reflectors from jiggling around.

 

I strongly advise not to butcher the expensive headlights with wood-screws forced in from the front.
I do not know how headlights look like, which are not being level controlled via that push-in/push-out turn-switch in the light-switch oval on the dashboard.
And I I do not know, how they look like, I can't say, if that same repair-kit would help or not.
I have 2 S-Type 3.0L. Near identical. '04 and '05, and both have that level switch in the car.
I think, HID has self-leveling. I was not aware that there is an all manual version.
Or maybe I forgot after all this time (I was the one, who designed the X-Type light switches, when working for Jaguar).
Is there no way to look into those headlights from the front to see, if the same adjustment elements are in there as in my headlights?

 

I got some time and warmer temps so I was able to get a more detailed look. The 05 US spec H7 Halogen units that I have only has manual adjusters - 2 on each side located on the assembly itself. There are no adjusters on the dash, It appears that the UK and AUS spec must differ from US spec.
I ordered the new plastic adjusters from the UK and am awaiting delivery. While I am waiting for the kit I decided to search the local scrappers, I found a set that also has the broken pieces but has beautiful clear lenses out of an 01 s type. $64 and 30 minutes labor in the yard, they are mine.
The plan is to use the "dreaded" screw fix on my old yellowed/scratched units so the vehicle is somewhat roadworthy. When the parts come in I'll wait for the wife to be gone for a couple of hours [avoiding the argument] then pop them in the oven and rebuild the nicer set.
Thanks for all your advice, It was really helpful.
Hope you don't leave the forum - you have a lot of knowledge and practical advice for us advanced "shade tree" mechanics.that are attempting to keep these cats on the road.

 

> Hope you don't leave the forum - you have a lot of knowledge and practical advice for us advanced "shade tree" mechanics.that are attempting to keep these cats on the road.

@ Gerard: Thanks for your kind words and encouragement, but I have an issue with high blood pressure and if I allow myself to be bullied by someone like LLLA, that will cause stress and bring me closer to the grave. I only just spend all night Saturday in Emergency - an issue, which was probably caused by stress.

On a last note: A half-wise decision to throw the headlights into the oven when your wife is not there - I am sure, she will figure it out when back and the trouble start anyhow.
Buy a heat-gun instead: It's worth to avoid that trouble and there are many uses for a heat gun (shrink tube and many more).

All the best, Peter

 

Hi Peter,

I'm sorry to hear of your medical issue. The Jaguar Forums is a risky place for those of us with hypertension.

We have many knowledgeable, experienced members with very strong opinions. So whenever one of us voices an opinion that gives the idea that our way is the only way, or we passionately criticize a repair method that many members have found helpful for more than a decade (long before any aftermarket repair kits were available), we are bound to hear from others whose opinions differ, and who may be equally passionate about their positions.

All of our opinions matter equally. But not all of our opinions can be backed up with either official Jaguar documentation, or alternately, years of successful field-testing by members of these forums.

The fact is, even our most knowledgeable members don't know everything there is to know about all Jaguars. But collectively, we form a brain trust that not only knows a high percentage of the "official" Jaguar information, but also possesses the creative power to solve problems the Jaguar engineers never anticipated by methods they couldn't have imagined. The key is to remain humble, to treat one another with respect, and to always be willing to learn from even the newest, most inexperienced member who may come up with a great idea.

All that to say, if other members disagreeing with you causes you life-threatening stress, then whatever you do, don't start a thread on the best oil for a Jaguar!

Cheers,

Don

 

Say, now that you mention it...

 

My oil cap states "Jaguar recommends Castrol 5w20" 😉

 

Is that conventional or synthetic? Is one better than the other?

 

I do believe the owners handbook states conventional. As far as your second question, I plea the 5th.

 

Hi Don,

why would I start a thread about engine oil? We had this topic only a couple of weeks ago somewhere in a thread here, where you posted the oil grade recommendation (5W-30/5W-40) for someone and I definitely would not object to that, as that is what I am using myself, as I wrote in that thread before your added the official recommendation.

It is a world of difference, if someone (anyone) argues vehemently for a certain technical solution (As I wrote to you in a personal message already, there is nothing wrong trying to make sure that someone, who asks here in the forum for a solution on the headlight-issue does not hammer a woodscrew into his headlights and thereby destroying several hundred dollars worth of headlamps) or if a certain someone like LLLA goes on a personal vendetta rampage with the intent to cause personal injury and insult.

See: It is a massive difference, if you believe in a certain cause (or technical solution), or if you just an aggressive bully out to harass someone. I would not have cared at all, if LLLA would have founded a new religious sect supporting woodscrews for Jaguar headlamps only - this would have been his business - but he was attacking me personally, which is a totally different kettle of fish. That he was attacking me personally, that much was clear, even, if I don't even understand the rest of his rumbling.

 

I cannot speak for Don but, I believe his comment, Karl's amd my comment were in fun attempting to make humor.

In Brutal's cheap/easy headlight fix with way over 100 plus responses never states "hammer wood screw in". I have read and read his very informative thread several times. I only see many, many "thank yous"!

A liitle background on Brutal. He is a very well respected Factory Jagaur tech who has offered his FREE advice here for over the 14 years I have been a member. He has given "freely" sound advice here on the forum and also in PM's to several hundred members if not thousands. I have asked his thoughts and procedures on a few a problems on my S Type, they all worked like a charm saving hundreds going to my local Jaguar dealer. I had asked if I can send some gratitude to him, he humbly replied "no it was my pleasure". I decided then to pay it forward here at jaguarforms.com with my DIYs that count in 100k views from all over the world. They may not be as detailed as yours but I guarantee they have proved to be effective resolving strangers S Type issues.

Peter, I believe you started the aggressive, bully, harassment here. LLLA simply copy and posted Brutal's headlight fix.

And for another example, your brow beating and intimidation tactics in what gearbox fluid to use. I personally used the cheapest fluid I could find WITH the same shell spec of your "use only Lifeguard6 nonsense ." Some 13 plus years ago, I purchased Castrol Multi Import ATF that was at the time the same shell spec as the liquid gold Lifeguard6. Oh heaven forbid, it was a buy 2 get 1 free. Guess what, I have done 2 drain and fills with the same Castrol ATF in Joycesjag ZF box is still running as strong to this day as ever with 135k on the clock. I personally have used the Castrol, Mercon SP in many members Jaguar ZF boxes here at my home garage. They are still on the road today as well!

Reason for edit* Castrol Multi Import ATF no longer the same shell spec for our ZF gearboxes. Apparently over the years since my drain, filter and drain and fill the spec has been reformulated.

I have a detailed thread and another forum member ccc who by the way pioneered the shade tree ZF gearbox drain and fill and sleeve replacement featured in the stickies DIY thread. You do not see us beating our chests, "this is how it must be done" attitude.

In closing. We can see you are a intelligent compassionate Jaguar owner who likes to contribute to the community here. Please heed Don's advice, you are not the only one. There are many ways to skin a cat as they say. The stickied DIY's have been proven successful, they have stood years of time including Brutals headlight quick fix. Keep posting your versions of DIY's they are quite detailed, more than my own.

Damn I despise typing such long posts from a phone but its all I have. Sorry....

 

@ Joycesjag: Thanks for your reply, but let's agree to disagree:

Let's agree that Karl's comments are most of the time meant as humor. That's just how he is.
Let's disagree reg. me being the aggressive, harassing bully here. That is absolutely not true. Note that in my first language the word "bully/bullying" does not even exist.
I don't even agree that it is possible at all to be - even if someone would try to be - aggressive and harassing and bullying about a subject matter.
In my vocabulary one can one be aggressive, harassing, abusive and bullying towards another person personally.

I am having a opinion - and may it be a strong one - regarding woodscrews (and obviously, one would not hammer them in - you have to allow me some poetical leeway here!) and I - as I think - rightfully point out, that this method damages the headlamps, not to mention that it remove the function of being able to level them (via leveling button on the dash board). And as Don correctly pointed out, those repair kits are a new thing, They have not been around way back in the past. So maybe woodscrews were the way in the past, BEFORE repair-kits were available...

And the main point - as mentioned above: I am convinced of a technical solution, and I express that verbally. It's my right to have a technical opinion, I am not forcing anyone. I am not - as LLLA - going on a pointless personal vendetta, being aggressive and insulting on a personal level. That is utterly uncalled for!

Briefly about ATF: The multi-vehicle ATF I used was - as Don taught me - totally unsuitable. It promised to be Lifeguard 5 and Lifeguard 6 at the same time - that says it all. Also, while we do not have any "correct" ATF for the X-Type Jatco jf506e in Australia, I came across an ATF, which seemed to be seriously suitable, and I swapped the unsuitable multi-vehicle ATF for that one: That was a difference like night and day - it was like my 2.1L FWD was now a 2.5L AWD... So even if a bad ATF works, you might not even be aware, how much better it could be with the correct ATF. But if you are out for a "gun-fight" reg. ATF, why not take it up with Don. I just happen to agree with Don on that matter. And if you suggest that I am somewhere somewhat aggressive (or using "intimidation tactics", which is quite a ridiculous claim) reg. ATF (which by my a.m. definition is not even possible, because being aggressive regarding a subject matter is not even possible in my vocabulary), that is also not true at all.

Also, I totally disagree with your phrase that I am beating my chests with a "this is how it must be done" attitude. This is an absolutely ridiculous thing to say and again counts as personal attack against me. Reality shows quite the opposite: Most of my threads start with a disclaimer that I am not to be held responsible, if you get inspired by my ideas and then some kind of damage or injury happens. Is that still not clear enough? It says that these are my ideas and methods, and it is totally up to you and definitely your own responsibility if you choose to do it the same way. I am clearly showing, how I did it. At no point do I force anybody to do the same. At some point I even point out especially: "Don't do this at home". Because it worked for me, but I would not even know, if that could always be replicated. How much clearer should I have made that I am not the one telling you, how it is being done, but merely that that is how I did it???

 

Hi Rick,

I don't want to get off topic too far, but I am the one who persuaded Peter that the only fluids we know to be correct in the ZF 6HP26 are ZF Lifeguard 6, Ford Motorcraft Mercon SP, and Shell Spirax S4 ATF MSP. All three are manufactured by Shell and have the same chemistry aside from the red dye in the Mercon that was added at Ford's request. All other fluids that claim to be suitable have been researched by members of these forums and others (e.g. the BMW forums) and have been found to differ significantly from the known-correct fluids.

For example, Castrol Multi-vehicle Import ATF has a kinematic viscosity at 40°C of 35 mm2/s. This is similar to that of the old Dexron III. In fact, Castrol claims that their fluid is suitable in applications that called for Dex III, and most of the applications (*see footnote below) for which Castrol recommends it use Dex III-type fluids (Ford Mercon, Idemitsu Matic-D, Aisin/Toyota T-III, Hyundai SP-III, etc.).

But Lifeguard 6 has a KV40 of just 26.8 mm2/s. In other words, the Castrol is one third "thicker" than the ZF.

When the 6HP26 was introduced, ZF made a big deal out of the close tolerances and narrow passages required to fit 6 forward gears in the same space previously occupied by 5, so the simultaneous introduction of a new low-viscosity fluid made sense. Using a thicker fluid like the Castrol could result in elevated internal pressures and temperatures, and greater strain on the pump and torque converter. And it is unknown whether the Castrol's additives, such as friction modifiers, seal conditioners, and anti-corrosion and anti-foaming agents, are compatible with the 6HP26 over the long term. Fluid-related transmission failures can take tens of thousands of miles to occur, so things may seem great right up until they don't.

So I've become pedantic about insisting that owners of the 6HP26 use one of the three known-correct fluids.

Don't blame Peter, blame me!

Cheers,

Don

*Castrol also claims that its Multi-vehicle Import ATF is suitable where some Dexron VI fluids are specified, such as Honda DW-1 and Aisin/Toyota T-IV. Since the KV40 of Dexron VI is 28.5 mm2/s, Castrol's claims are implausible.

 

One more thing to add to our digressions:

For the sake of accuracy, Brutal never advocated the use of a wood screw in his headlamp repair. The photos in his post clearly show a pan-head sheetmetal screw.

Cheers,

Don