New to me s type 4.0L
Hi all i am soon to be taking delivery of a 2002 S Type sport 4.0 v8, im waiting for delivery because at this moment it failed its mot
It failed on rear discs and pads, rear caliper leaking, and rear tie rod ends all at the garage expense which i the only thing making me feel better about not picking up the car 10 days ago which was planned.
What common faults etc should i be looking out for when i pick the car up i will have a 3 month warranty.
Many thanks
darren Talbot
P.S i did read the newbies guide but all i read was about chanigng the oil and checking some 8mm nuts etc.
It failed on rear discs and pads, rear caliper leaking, and rear tie rod ends all at the garage expense which i the only thing making me feel better about not picking up the car 10 days ago which was planned.
What common faults etc should i be looking out for when i pick the car up i will have a 3 month warranty.
Many thanks
darren Talbot
P.S i did read the newbies guide but all i read was about chanigng the oil and checking some 8mm nuts etc.
The 8mm nuts are for a different car!!
Yours has the Ford 5R55N autobox.
Worry about the tensioners (Search will get you details), as they're critical.
Be aware of the chance and usual cause of bore wash. Search (and/or google) really is your friend...
Yours has the Ford 5R55N autobox.
Worry about the tensioners (Search will get you details), as they're critical.
Be aware of the chance and usual cause of bore wash. Search (and/or google) really is your friend...
A google search says that the niskal coating was only used up to 2000 though, and this is the cause of the bore washing?
i hope my info is correct, i may be wrong but fingers crossed!
The good news is a) low sulphur fuel has been compulsory in the EU since 1st January 2000, and b) Jaguar stopped using nikasil in August/September 2000.
The good news is a) low sulphur fuel has been compulsory in the EU since 1st January 2000, and b) Jaguar stopped using nikasil in August/September 2000.
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At this late date if your car has not suffered from this you are most likely OK.
As you pointed out the problem is the Sulfur in the fuel and really little or very low operating time. Those two in combination were deadly for Nikasil bores.
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As you pointed out the problem is the Sulfur in the fuel and really little or very low operating time. Those two in combination were deadly for Nikasil bores.
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If it was my car I would pull the cam covers off NOW! You can inspect the top tensioners to see if they are the updated ones with just the cam covers removed. We have some great threads on this forum from guys changing the tensioners so I will suggest a search. It’s a hell of a job and my hat is off to ANY DIY that does it.
Just be aware that if yours are original at that mileage I would not wait to change them. Now you might get lucky and find they have already been updated.
As the tensioners wear and the plastic breaks bit by bit you will start to get looseness in the timing chains. This will cause some noise mostly on startup. Turn the radio off and listen very carefully with the window down on an overnight full cold start up. This is the worse condition because all the oil will have drained out of the system and you will be at maximum slop. As the engine is started the oil flows to the tensioners causing them to push against the chains and will quiet down the noise.
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Just be aware that if yours are original at that mileage I would not wait to change them. Now you might get lucky and find they have already been updated.
As the tensioners wear and the plastic breaks bit by bit you will start to get looseness in the timing chains. This will cause some noise mostly on startup. Turn the radio off and listen very carefully with the window down on an overnight full cold start up. This is the worse condition because all the oil will have drained out of the system and you will be at maximum slop. As the engine is started the oil flows to the tensioners causing them to push against the chains and will quiet down the noise.
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That's a BIG +1 - check those tensioners ASAP... and replace them if they are indeed the Gen 1 plastic tensioners...
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