Hello everyone
as some of you know I'm moving to the United Kingdom for two years in just over a weeks time
well today put the icing on the cake

3 days ago Monday nz time
I took my str to the auto Electricians to repair a short circuit on the electronic park brake
as when you went over a bump it came up park brake fault u1134 so kept get fault on Instrument cluster
well drove car to auto Electrician

Today Wednesday nz time I got a phone call
Saying the could not fix fault and now my car would not start
Nor could the move it out of park to Neutral

I shot down to Electricians with a spear key
We put a new battery in still no start
I asked what happened they said there new employee had been working on car and was doing something with there scanner

We put it on a hiab tow truck and now car is home
I put my carsoft CR PRO on to see what I could find
Its not the greatest but reliable and picks up all control modules
well here gos engine module first time ever
failed to link or read
so got out the JLR IDS SDD MONGOOSE
AS some of you know it reads vin automatically
Well mine came up?????????????
Can not read vin
I entered manually Exactly the same please enter correct vin
doors lock with remote windows work ect
I am now being to think some how the idiots have wiped the engine control module
also now saying on Instrument cluster
Gearbox fault
Abs fault
Dsc not available
I have a car transportation truck arriving in 6 days time to take my three s type,s to my parents 700 km away
to put in storage
While I'm in the United Kingdom

Any help would be greatly appreciated
Thanking you
Darrol

 

high speed can is down. go get a scanner on global obd if the ecm works it will communicate over iso k-line

if they’re auto electricians they should know how to do it.

 

thanks would you have any recommendations of what kind
now got 5 days to sort out
Just plugged i carsoft CR PRO back on
Did all systems scan engine control module not even shown up like it doesn't exist

 

go into global obd. launch autel cheap scanner

 

thanks
Just looked for one in New Zealand nothing available
So would have to import
So wont have in time

Thanks for the help

 

Even a cheap elm327 can do ISO 9141 (aka K-Line) protocol

You're making your tool do CAN. Don't.

Not likely the ECM is wiped as they're quite resistant - but possible.

 

Hi jag v8
Thanks
The main problem is in New Zealand it is hopeless finding scan tools
We have a platform similar to eBay ect yes they advertise them all
But you go to purchase one it always says shipped from overseas please allow 10 to 15 day for delivery
The only one I have found locally is a I carsoft but I already got one
Time is not on my side
Still have a house to pack up lol
As we renting it out for the two years
And don't want to leave my baby locked in the garage
If I can even get it in there

 

any shop will have these tools

 

hi it not like that in New Zealand
We have one auto shop where I live
Here is a example went to purchase 8 new coils and spark plugs and brake pads they had to come from Australia
Transmission fuild had to come from another city
That took 3 day to travel 300 km
Postage is so slow over here its almost quicker to walk
we not as lucky everyone else
screenshot show how long something small takes to arive

 

S-Type owners do use the iCarsoft. IIRC it has settings/menus and can be made to do the right protocol - trawl through some threads or just mess with its menus.

The Forscan elm is probably overkill but should work so long as you have a PC (with Windows) as it is USB.

If (as it appears) there's a CAN problem I suspect you're not going to get the car started unless that's fixed. Likely have to check CAN voltages, termination, etc, as per workshop manual.

I've slid a car somewhat (on the level) by easing/jacking it onto something slippy (multiple carrier bags or whatever).

 

Now that I read the whole story (which was way longer than what you wrote to me via PM), my easy remedy-suggestions will probably sadly not help (battery disconnect for 10 minutes and battery-charging or new battery).

But it's worth asking: Did you measure the voltage on your new battery (during ign.-OFF, ign.-ON and during cranking)?
Your local car-parts shop is - according to what you wrote above - pretty useless. Thus, it's worth asking, if they sold you a dead battery!?

 

Wow Darrol bummer

your icarsoft should have an obd2 diagnose function. Try that if not already done. Can you see inside the obd2 plug to inspect the pins to see if one is broken or bent. There is a way to use a multimeter to check a couple things at the obd2 connector. Google checking can line at obd2 connector with multimeter. You can check for voltage and continuity

 

A few more ideas and considerations:

When I suggested above to disconnect the battery (as this was what I did) I forgot that that is only half the story:
To recalibrate the el. handbrake I did the followingisconnect the battery for 10 minutes and do a "hard reset", i.e. holding the disconnected plus and minus cable together. After reconnecting the battery and turning the key to ign.-ON (without starting the engine) the display should tell you to apply footbrake and handbrake (manually). This about solved my problem.

My threat about my issue with the el. handbrake is here (which is the same as above with more words):
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...t-move-290755/

Maybe that is all your Jag would have needed, BEFORE handing it over to the auto-electrician.
But it's definitely worth trying, if you could still improve things with that procedure now.

Another thing: When I asked Scott, which hardware is required to connect SDD to the Jag, the list included something unexpected: A 30A battery charger... I did not ask why, because this made sense to me: In case the battery voltage goes too low, while the SDD is making changes on the Jag, it would cause problems. I am sure my 15A CTEK battery charger will do the trick. Scott also thinks that 30A is over the top.
Now: I am thinking that your auto electrician probably fiddled around with the SDD being connected without connecting a power supply and your old battery was weak. This may have caused current issues...

And here are ideas for the worth possible case that you can't move your Jag with "P" engaged before leaving NZ:
Put it into your garden (if your can't put it into the garage). If in the garden: First put a layer of blankets and/or doonas (bed covers) over it. Then a hail cover and close the 2 straps underneath. Then get two tarpaulins (3.6 x 6m) with a clothline (best steel reinforced) running all around the tarps thru its holes to tie it to the car, plus another clothline going under the car connecting the two sides (to prevent wind from blowing everything away. Do that with 2 tarps over each other: The lower one will be able to protect the car against humidity, while the upper tarps protects the lower tarps from dissolving/disintegrating due to UV-impact.