My 2000 S Type has been sitting in the garage for a few months and was only started once (I know bad move). Anyway after about 3 weeks I did put it on a trickle charger to maintain the battery (but it did run down prior).

Flash forward to today and I went down, took the cover off her and she started right up, once. I took her out and drove with some spirit for about 25 minutes with no problem.

But when I went back out a few hours later she will not start. She cranks fine and actually starts EVERY TIME... for about a second and then dies.

My first thought was a fuel pump but after a few cranks and almost starts if the fuel pump was bad I would think the car would just crank. Since it actually starts for a second then dies each time I wonder if the drained battery plus sitting has caused something with the security system.

Thoughts?

How can i test/eliminate the security system as the culprit?

Thank you in advance!

 

Either fuel or transfer pump - more than likely fuel pump.

When turning the ignition on (doors closed - total quiet) you should hear the fuel pump "prime up" for about 1 - 2 seconds.

If you don't hear the pump prime - then there is your culprit.

For some reason - with these pumps - if the car sits for a while the pump seizes up and just quits.

Let us know what you find out.

 

If you have a PATS fault you will have a flashing red LED on the top of the dash.

A fault will be indicated by rapid flashing for (30 seconds??) and then a series of 'blinks' related to a numerical value.

I attended the ADVANCED DIAGNOSTICS class around a dozen years ago and here is a copy of a page.

bob gauff

 

In case someone with a later car needs the equivalent page, see around p323 of
www.jagrepair.com/images/Training%20Guides/688-JAG_10-08.pdf

The PATS flash codes look the same with an addition.

 

Does not sound like a PATS problem.

PATS will allow the car to crank but NOT start so if it kicks off for a little bit and then dies I am betting the problem is somewhere else.

As was posted report back what the red PATS light is doing. That's the real key.
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I will check but I agree it is probably a fuel pump. Rock Auto has a recommended replacement for under $70 and my mechanic says the labor is only an hour since the tank does not need to be dropped so maybe ill do it myself... kudos on that design choice Jaguar!

Then I find out that the car has two pumps... lawl... so should i replace them both while in there? Are they both accessible under the back seat?

 

Yes both are under the rear seat. This is a Lincoln LS but it's the same for the S Type. You will see white plastic instead of black.


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There is only ONE electric fuel pump in the N/A S-Type.

The left side has a JET-PUMP (transfer pump).

bob gauff

 

I am having this same problem intermittently. I get code 16 on the dash alarm light. When it decides not to start it "tries" for the first two times or so then after that acts as if there is no fuel and just cranks. Looking at the Advanced Diagnostics sheet posted earlier I still don't know what the code 16 means? Any help?

And chargerrich, mine will "reset" if I disconnect the battery for a few hours and not have the problem for a couple days if I am lucky. Maybe give that a try. The fuel pump is a snap to replace after dropping the tanks on a Suburban and an Explorer.

 

16 = "SCP fault between PCM and Transceiver (this may allow cranking/no start)"

 

About a dozen years ago I went to Jaguar training 'Advanced Diagnostics'.
We were given cars deliberately disabled to try to diagnose the fault.

One problem car had been 'rigged' so that the boot lid would not open with the rear lid button.

We told the instructor that we found the problem with the car, IT WOULD NOT START!!!

He looked pretty horrified and said that it was NOT the problem he caused and kinda panicked and asked what we did to the car.

The PATS light was blinking 16 so he looked up the code and we went to work.

The problem turned out to be the left interior bulkhead harness connector was loose in the socket. (driver's footwell upper left area)

A previous class was working in that area and disturbed the connector.

We did finally discover the boot lid fault was a disconnected harness plug in the right dash endcap.

bob gauff

 

Update for those that are interested, I removed the fuel pump and was horrified by the fuel pump assembly. It had been mickey moused to an extent I can barely describe. Lots of electrical tape, two aftermarket inline fuel filters that looked like they came off a lawn mower and a loose grounding wire.

The problem turned out to be a the ground keep blowing a fuse. Since I already ordered the fuel pump ($60 for the Spectra versus $693 for the Bosch!) I decided to order a new assembly (122 for a Spectra versus 818 for a Bosch lol) and replaced both.

The piece of mind of knowing my car wont explode while driving it was worth the price.

 

Man glad you found it! Sounds like a real Back Yard repair.
Can you post a picture of the mess?

Good thing you pulled the pump. I can't believe the car would even run with all that crap on it.
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