Hello everyone,

I recently got the above mentioned Jag and it started having an interesting couple of problems. I don't know if they are connected, so I will list them and hope you can assist me:

1. If the car is NOT in sport mode, on the dash it says Gearbox Fault. Not right away, but after 30 to 50km. If the message appears more than 2 times the yellow Check enginer light goes on. If it is in sport there is no problem. Also the vehicle doesn't behave badly or odd in any way, when the errors occur.

2. Today I got a traction control fault and the ABS on the dash turned on (yellow).

3. This is my first automatic, so not sure if this is normal or not, but - When I put the car in reverse it takes a good 3 to 6 seconds for it to start moving. I have found that if I push down the break 2 times it starts moving.

I would appreciate any assitance. There are not many techs that can work on jaguars in my country other than the dialer, but not only charge more than other dealers (I work for Mercedes for two years), but also they are always full and I have to make reservations 2 weeks in advance (yes even just for someone to read the errors on the car).

Thank you all in advance,

Bobby

 

Welcome to the forum Bobby,

I've moved your question from General Tech Help to S-Type forum. Members here with the same model will be able to help.

Graham

 

Read the codes. You're working blind for want of a cheap tool (some places will do it free).

Also check the battery volts - under heavy load. False codes & weird things result from a less than great battery.

 

I don't have anything to read them with and if it has to be something special for the Jag and not a universal car reader I doubt I can buy it in my country. Most likely will have to order it.

If that's the case would going to the dealer directly and giving them 100euro to only read the error be a smart option? I don't know if they will give the codes to me, or will the tech guy give an opinion.

If not, could you give me a link or model of a reader I should look for?

 

Hi Boris,

you don't need to get Jaguar specific tool as the car is OBD II compliant so you can get a cheap elm 327 to read the engine codes. I use a program that works from my laptop to read the faults and look at fuel trims.
I use a icarsoft i930 as well to deal with the abs etc but this device does not seem to work with all the cars. So if you buy one make it can be returned for a refund

The first thing to do however is check your battery as it should have 12.6 v. The latest maintenance free batteries need a higher voltage than our cars produce so we only charge them to about 80% of full capacity. Whenever I get the abs/dsc warning light I know it is time to place it on the charger.

I hope this helps

 

Hey Guys,

Quick update: I was at a battery store/repair shop some friends have. Not only was the battery at around 12,2v, but it is also not the correct size. It's a smaller one. I got a fully charged battery and the boys told me that the errors wouldn't go away in a second, so to drive it arround.

Unfortunatly I drove around 20km and the ABS is still on the dash and not working. I will keep driving and have made an appointment for Friday at shop where they said they can read the errors.

So that's it for now.

Bobby

 

Normally by me when I have this warning it goes the next start. so you may have a sensor problem. Just wait until you have the codes and download a copy of the JTIS (workshop manual). It will tell you how to check and replace if it not working.

 

Update time:
The ABS fault is due to C1234 - Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal Missing. The guy hooked up his tablet to the car and the front right wheel stays at 0km/h. A week or two ago I had some techs replays 2 x strut and 2 x sway bar bushings. This guy says the probably messed up the sensor and that's why I'm in this possition.

The guy doesn't have that much experience with Jags, so he asked me to check with you guys on how to handle the problem. He wonders if there are any Reference values posted online, so that he doesn't have to check the left seonsor and cables. After we make sure it's the sensor I'll start looking for somewhere to buy it.

I also took the car out of sport mode and forsed the "gearbox fault"error to appear. Unfortunatly my phone didn't save the error code, but the problem is with 4th gear. The guy explained that either the gear slipped and then got in place, or the car had some trouble getting it into 4th.

I'll try and find this JTIS maual that Ducmon suggested and see if it can be of use with the sensor problem. Other than that any help or this would be appreciated.

Bobby

 

Ignore the gearbox fault until you have working ABS. Oh, and a known great battery. Then see if it appears as it may not.

It's hit and miss checking ABS sensors without a scope or the like. No code for other ones and they're likely OK.

 

Here is the link to the JTIS.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/general-tech-help-7/jtis21-win7-64-install-method-new-archives-65926/

 

Edit: Some of this reply is incorrect, with portions highlighted in red.
Please see post #15 for the correct info.

For a wheel speed sensor, I'd suggest unhooking the connector from the controller. Take a resistance reading through the sensor and compare with the other side. No experience with the Jaguar version, but wheel speed sensors are typically very simple devices. It's usually just a coil of fine wire inside a plastic housing, with an attached harness. One could have easily been damaged or the connector worked loose during the recent suspension work.

Wiring diagrams here:

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

Where are you located? You've mentioned difficulty getting parts, finding a mechanic, etc.

 

Fantastic, you are making progress. Keep in mind there may be several faults in play. Fixing one may not clear all problems, so don't get discouraged.

For the battery, also check where the ground cable bolts to the body. That bolt passes through to the wheelwell, so road salt, etc. works in there and can cause a bad connection. It's usually worthwhile to undo this bolt and clean up the mounting surface for the ground cable.

 

No, this is not normal. The most likely culprit is low transmission fluid.

Unfortunately, this transmission is a 'sealed' design. It can still be serviced, but it doesn't have a dipstick for easy checking or topping off.

If you do get the transmission serviced, make sure the correct fluid is used. If a shop tries to tell you the transmission is an exotic Jaguar model and servicing will be expensive, laugh and walk away. Find a place that knows their stuff. Your transmission is a very common model manufactured by Ford.

 

I found that it is cheaper to buy a complete hub instead of getting a sensor from Jaguar or any other source. They wanted 125 Euros for the sensor and you can get a hub for 71 euros.

http://www.ebay.de/itm/1x-Radlagersatz-links-rechts-Vorderachse-MOOG-JA-WB-11176-JAGUAR-S-TYPE/381818517022?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkpa rms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3 D43785%26meid%3D84c8e34a3a0e4a61a3b8967408b4dd8d%2 6pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D151886188 177

If you need help to get one pm me.

 

I had a little time to kill before my regularly scheduled afternoon nap. Turns out I gave some bad advice about this message. Sorry about that. I had been thinking this code meant an open or shorted circuit for the sensor, such as a broken wire or similar. Instead, it means the controller sees this wheel as not turning but isn't detecting an electrical fault. You would have seen code C1135 for an electrical fault in that circuit.

Here's what the manual has to say about your C1234:


C1234 Right-hand front wheel
speed sensor signal failure:
Wheel speed sensor gap incorrect
Foreign matter on sensor face
Missing tooth on sensor wheel
Incorrect wheel size

Unfortunately, that was the extent of information given. I couldn't find any reference to checking or adjusting the sensor gap. Best I can figure, it's not adjustable.

This makes me wonder if the sensor was removed during the recent suspension work, but not reinstalled properly. Give it a good visual inspection and compare it to the other side, which isn't faulting. Maybe you'll get lucky and find it not properly secured in the wheel hub assembly. That would be a nice easy fix.

 

Hello kr98664,

Thank you very much for all the help. I will get all of this to the guy who has the tech to check out the sensor.

As for your question I am from Sofia, Bulgaria.

And for the transmission fluid - we checked it out and we added 1L of fluid. The problem is still there, but I did find something. If I press the brake pedal a second time, the car starts moving right away.

 

Did you add the gearbox oil when it was at the correct temperature because when this not the case then you may have too much oil.

 

Guys help. I'm in the country, no where near any engineer. On the dashboard the light for the parking break is on all the time. The hand break works fine and I have break fluid in the tank. The car handles fine, no weird effects. No errors on dash.

 

Have you bought yourself a scanner that can read the codes yet?
did you down load a copy of the JTIS (workshop manual)

I would start by looking to see how much meat is left on the pads as you may have reached the limit of them and then check the brake discs to see if they are worn out.

 

I'm not sure I follow this. Is there some sort of brake wear monitor that illuminates the brake warning light on the dash?

We are talking about the little red indicator light on the bottom of the dash, right? I think it says "BRAKE!" inside a circle, or something like that. I'm talking about the light that comes on normally when setting the parking brake.

No access to my manuals at the moment, so please somebody double check this. I thought only two things can illuminate the brake warning light on the dash. Remember, this is an early model (2001), the later models may be different:

1) Parking brake handle not released

2) Low fluid in the brake master cylinder reservoir

If the fluid level is normal, and the handle is fully released and the brakes don't feel like they are binding, you've probably got a false indication. In that case, you'd be fine to carefully drive home but get that fixed as soon as possible. It would be dangerous to have a real fault develop (such as losing brake fluid) but not realize it.