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rear brakes/stripping down/bleeding

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Old 08-14-2016, 04:20 PM
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Default rear brakes/stripping down/bleeding

Hello
i need some advise i have a jaguar s-type 3.0 v6 auto 1999 which am restoring i have replaced all the components at the rear of the car , the only thing i was not going to replace or mess with was the rear brake calipers as i noticed the pads was ok but after a closer inspection believe they need stripping down but as i have never done a jaguar before am a little bit nervous so i was wondering can you strip them down ? what affect does the handbrake mechanism have on the caliper if any when stripping down ? The handbrake cable is manual not electric just a large spring at the back of the caliper and what are they like to bleed
So am wondering if anybody as a step by step guide or just just some good advise it would be much appreciate.
Regards
 
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Old 08-14-2016, 04:38 PM
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They're no different or more complicated than any other car with an integral park brake mechanism.
 
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Old 08-14-2016, 04:55 PM
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Thankyou for replying i have stripped many calipers down but not any with integral brake mechanism is their anything i need to look out for in your opinion when removing mechanism from rear of caliper or can you remove it but just note were things go
 
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Old 08-14-2016, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by jag 66
Thankyou for replying i have stripped many calipers down but not any with integral brake mechanism is their anything i need to look out for in your opinion when removing mechanism from rear of caliper or can you remove it but just note were things go
The only part that I had trouble with was finding the seals for the parking brake shaft. Most of the kits only have the piston seal and the piston dust cover.
 
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Old 08-15-2016, 11:23 AM
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Unless there is evidence of leaks, it may be best to just clean the calipers and renew the brake pads. Changing the brake fluid on a regular basis according to the factory recommendation can help prolong the life of many of the components.

The rear caliper pistons must be returned to the caliper body using a tool that exerts pressure on the piston whilst turning in a clock direction.
 
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Old 08-21-2016, 07:50 PM
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Default 2001 s-type rear brake pads tip and trick

Just did my rear brakes this weekend - pads and disks. Found PepBoys "OEM Rear Disc Brake Piston" Part # 25071 SKU: 9869729 worked fine to retract pistons. also found using 13mm box-end slipped over park brake cable worked great to depress all 'fingers' on the retaining clip at same time to get the cable off the bracket on the caliper- took seconds to do, honest. hope this helps others get this job done. BTW need to press and turn calipers - on both sides - in clockwise direction to retract them. I thought left (driver) side might be CC, it isn't. And be sure to leave caliper grooves in vertical after retracting to ensure proper mating fit to inside brake pad. Lastly, calipers would not turn unless bleeder was open to release excess fluid while retracting caliper. This is my first Jag and I learned a bunch doing this brake job. next weekend I move on to the fronts.... wish me luck.
 
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Old 08-22-2016, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by MrDonut
And be sure to leave caliper grooves in vertical after retracting to ensure proper mating fit to inside brake pad. .
Why did you need to leave the caliper groves vertical ? The caliper rotates (unscrews) as the pad material wears. I hope you didn't fit the outboard pad against the piston and the inboard pad in the outboard position. The outboard pad has the two rivets in the vertical position to fit between the caliper fingers and the inboard pads have the rivets horizontal to allow the piston to sit against the shim.
 
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Old 08-22-2016, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by MrDonut
Lastly, calipers would not turn unless bleeder was open to release excess fluid while retracting caliper.
I think you meant 'piston' and not 'caliper'. Remember to refill the master cylinder with whatever volume of fluid was lost.
 
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Old 08-23-2016, 07:34 PM
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Yes I meant pistons not calipers, sorry for that...
 
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Old 08-23-2016, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Gerry755
Why did you need to leave the caliper groves vertical ? The caliper rotates (unscrews) as the pad material wears. I hope you didn't fit the outboard pad against the piston and the inboard pad in the outboard position. The outboard pad has the two rivets in the vertical position to fit between the caliper fingers and the inboard pads have the rivets horizontal to allow the piston to sit against the shim.
the pads I replaced and new replacements only have a single alignment pin towards bottom of the pad (see pic; old on top new on bottom). Also, pads are interchangeable inside to outside right to left. It appeared to me that if grooves are not vertical pin will keep pad from sitting flush against piston face. I initially did not do this and noted imprint (I think...) of pin on the piston face when I went back to correct (after noting this advice on another post). I'm working a base model non-brembo brakes '01 perhaps other MYs or brembo-equipped models' brakes are different.


 
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