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In order to troubleshoot a problem with my driver's side mirror, I need to remove the driver's door interior panel.
Does anyone have a checklist for removing this panel? Understand you need to remove the door handle bezel and two screws in the door "pull"/armrest BUT it's taking off the actual panel with a trim removal tool that gives me pause.
How many fastners does the driver's door panel have?
Where are they located?
How best to disengage them? Just work around the perimeter of the panel lifting it up with the trim removal tool?
Any "gotchas" to be aware of?
Would appreciate any insights into doing this right.
Many thanks to Norri for pointing me to tbird6's post from 2010. I missed it in my search.
It contains step-by-step instructions and diagrams for removing the driver's door interior panel; including locations of the various pins (fastners). Additionally, the post points out some possible gotchas.
For seeing how parts are assembled, eBay is a great resource. If the fasteners are not in plain sight, it's nice to see them before breaking something. For your situation, I searched "Jaguar S-Type door panel" and found this picture:
I've used eBay to find pics for lots of stuff like external engine pieces, cabin trim, etc.
To start getting the panel away from the door, after removing the screws etc, a short sharp pull on the door bin while someone (or your knee) holds the door frees the lower pins. After that just work around the door freeing the rest. The pins are long and I don't think I ever used a panel tool on this type of door card. Just careful sharp pulls at the right points works well.
IIRC, The mirror mechanism is mainly accessed from the mirror side. I damaged one years ago and dismantled it to repair and respray. There isn't much under the outer cover. I have a spare somewhere that was supposed to replace the repaired one. I'll try and find it and get some photos for you.
Thank you for the information regarding the interior door panel clips (pins). Saw them advertised by several sources but wasn't sure if they would do the job. Glad to hear they worked.
First, spend $20 bucks, buy a trim panel remove kit and a “cats paw” tool from Amazon. A simple flat head screwdriver is a no no.
Have a bundle of the above mentioned white plastic fasteners.
Removing the plastic cover behind the door handles is tricky and they love to snap; this is not the place for elbow grease. Pay close attention while you remove. If you’re unsure, stop and reassess.
Best advice I can give; go to a local pick a part, grab spare fasteners and door handle panels. Practice removing a panel a few times.
Below is a how to video. Pay close attention to the first 15 seconds where the door handle panel is removed.
Getting the door lever bezel off in one piece and not breaking the white door pins are the two biggest challenges. Have a trim removal kit and am awaiting the arrival of some white door pins...just in case. As soon as I receive the pins and the parts I'm replacing inside the door, I will attempt removing the interior panel. More to follow.
Successfully removed my driver's door interior panel without breaking the door pull bezel, and only breaking one of the white pins. As advised, I had spare pins standing by. Attribute the results to all the sound advise received.
With the panel removed, changed out the master window/mirror/memory control panel hoping it would resolve my driver-side mirror issue (no movement). It did not.
To date, have replaced the mirror motor and the master window/mirror/memory control panel. Neither fixed the problem. I'm at a bit of a loss for deciding my next move. More to follow.
With the panel removed, changed out the master window/mirror/memory control panel hoping it would resolve my driver-side mirror issue (no movement). It did not.
To date, have replaced the mirror motor and the master window/mirror/memory control panel. Neither fixed the problem,
Did you replace the control panel with a new part or was it used?
Also, I’m still wondering if the problem is a faulty wire. The weak spot on most cars is where the wires flex every time you open and close the door. I’ve lost count of how many times I have had to replace a wire under similar circumstances. Sometimes you can’t see the break in the wire as the insulation is still intact. You just have to check each wire related to that circuit for continuity with a multimeter. It’s boring and takes a while but oh so satisfying when you find culprit and replace it!
Successfully removed my driver's door interior panel without breaking the door pull bezel, and only breaking one of the white pins. As advised, I had spare pins standing by. Attribute the results to all the sound advise received.
Nice job man!
Now I have to work up the courage to do all of my doors to install new speakers.