2006 S-Type 4.2
Mileage: 50,186

Over the past several weeks, I have posted many times describing my attempts to resolve two issues that occurred near-simultaneously in my 2006 S-Type. Several of you reached out in response to my posts, and provided me key information and encouragement. Thank you.

Unfortunately, the "fix" for both or either issue has alluded me. After many replacement parts and hours of peering at wires and plugs, it is time to send the vehicle off to the shop and someone who has the expertise and software.equipment to diagnose these issues properly.

On the positive side, learned to remove an interior door panel; replace a mirror motor; and replace a door lock actuator (as well as, remove door glass and an exterior door handle). Additionally, I learned that almost no two Jaguar electrical plugs are the same, which made disconnecting them interesting. Finally, I have a well-stocked spare parts bin, as every part removed proved to be good.

​​Below is a summary of my troubleshooting efforts that will be provided to the technician at the shop (when I find a shop in the area). If anyone sees a glaring hole in my efforts, please let me know. Believe the root cause of my issues is electrical, but I have exhausted my limited expertise in this area.

Again, "thank you" to those who assisted me in my efforts, When the issues are resolved, I will report back with the details.

Kind regards,



__________________________________
Troubleshooting Efforts To Date

Overview
The Driver’s side mirror can no longer be controlled from the Driver’s Door Control Panel, and the driver’s door cannot be automatically locked by either the key fob or the dash Door Locking Switch.

Problems
Problem #1 – Driver’s Side Mirror Cannot Be Controlled

• The driver’s side mirror cannot be controlled from the Driver’s Door Control Panel.
• The passenger side mirror is controllable and works properly.

Problem #2 – Driver’s Door Will Not Automatically Lock

• The driver’s door cannot be automatically locked using either the key fob or the dash Door Locking Switch. The other three doors will attempt to lock but revert to the unlocked position because the driver’s door lock is inoperative.
• Note: All doors can be locked manually using either the key or pressing in the lock lever on the driver’s door.

Troubleshooting To Date
Problem #1 – Driver’s Side Mirror Cannot Be Controlled

• Tested following fuses for continuity. Both tested GOOD:
  • Driver Door Module F7 Passenger Fuse Box
  • Driver Door Module F22 Passenger Fuse Box
• Replaced Driver Side Mirror Motor with new OEM part from dealer. Did not fix problem.
• Removed inner driver’s door panel and inspected Driver Door Control Panel for corrosion and loose wires
• Replaced Driver Door Control Panel with new OEM part from dealer. Did not fix problem.

Problem #2 – Driver’s Door Will Not Automatically Lock

• Re-tested both Driver Door Module fuses. Both tested GOOD.
• Replaced Driver Door Lock Actuator with new OEM part from dealer. Did not fix problem.

Driver Door Module (DDM)

• OBD2 shows the DDM as good.
• However, bought a used DDM with the same number – 4R83-13C791-AB – and swapped it with the original DDM.
• With replacement DDM installed all functions worked as before except the two existing problems – driver side mirror and driver’s door failure to auto lock remained.
• Re-installed the original DDM

Notes

1. All new parts – mirror motor, driver door control panel, and driver door lock actuator – that were replaced during troubleshooting remain in the vehicle.
2. The used DDM was removed and the original DDM re-installed.
3. When attempting to auto lock the doors using the dash Door Locking Switch, a ‘clicking’ sound coming from the area of the driver’s door leading edge can be heard.

 

Now I realise you have two related faults, I can make an educated guess…
In a traditionally wired car, I would be checking for resistance on the earth supplies to both systems (it is probably shared).
I would also check the positive supplies too (which may also be shared).
Once you find which is faulty, run a new wire through to replace it and it should work again.
What year is your car?
I may be able to find the relevant wiring diagram and walk you through the steps of identifying the fault. You would need a multimeter.

 

Thank you for your response.

My vehicle is a 2006, and I do have a multimeter.

As I dug deeper into these two issues, I realized that they might be related; that is why I eventually swapped out the DDM. I should have presented the two issues together on the Forum.

Would welcome your assistance; however, as I stated before electricity tends to elude me.

Question - Are there any relays associated with the driver-side mirror and driver door lock actuator?

Kind regards,

 

Ok. I’ll look for the later wiring diagrams this evening.

 

Here ya go, at the top of the page:

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

Ok so here goes:
follow the link to the manual that KR posted. Select your year of car and open the manual.
Find and print off page 14 for easy reference (this has the wiring colour codes).
Find Figure 10.2 (pages 116 and 117). You may find it convenient to print these too.
Unplug the Driver’s Door Module (DDM).
Find the two BLACK wires.
Set your multimeter to continuity setting (or low resistance if yours doesn’t have a beeper for testing continuity).
Connect one of your multimeter wires to a GOOD earth. Connect the other to one of the BLACK wires. Your multimeter should beep or show zero ohms (if it doesn’t, you have found the faulty wire).
If it beeps, try the same with the other BLACK wire.
If both black wires beep or show zero ohms then they are GOOD earths. If either doesn’t beep, replace the wire with a new one connected to a good earth.
If those two wires are ok, we will move on to the Driver’s Door Switch Pack. Unplug it and do the exact same test on the BLACK wire to the switch pack.
You have now tested all three main earth wires. If they are ok, we can move on to checking other wires.

On the same DDM wiring plug as the two black wires should be four more wires in the following colours:
YELLOW
BLUE
WHITE/GREEN
BROWN/RED
We are going to check these. BUT FIRST, change your multimeter to DC voltage setting closest to 12volts (e.g. 20v setting depending upon your type of multimeter). Don’t choose a very high DC voltage setting as it will not give you accurate enough readings.
Next turn ignition on and turn off all electric items such as radio, heater blower, lights etc.
Then check the battery voltage (this will give you a rough baseline). Write down the reading.
If battery voltage is 12.7v then we know we should be looking for fairly close to that reading on our positive supplies.
Connect your black multimeter lead to a GOOD earth and your red lead to the WHITE/GREEN wire. You should have battery voltage.
If that wire is ok move on to the BROWN/RED wire and check for voltage. With the ignition on, this should show battery voltage (Note that this is an ignition positive supply so will only show voltage when the ignition is on).

Write down the results of each wire you have checked. If any of the 5 wires you have checked do not read as planned then you will have to run a substitute wire through.

Let us know what you find, then we can discuss the next step(s).

 

In addition to this excellent advice, I would also suggest moving the door back and forth while taking these readings. If not convenient, at least wiggle the wiring harness at the hinge area. If you have an intermittent fault, the problem is most likely to be where the harness flexes.

 

Yes, good point!

 

Sportston and kr98664 -

Thank you for the step-by-step instruction. Will need to dedicate a block of time to completing. Once done, will notify you.

Kind regards,

 

With your instructions in hand set about testing the various wires -- grounds and small plug plug into Driver's Door Module. See photo below.

I tested the two BLACK ground wires. Neither read zero. With the resistance set at X10 both wires read ~ 7.5

Moving on to the Driver's Door Switch Pack (see photo below), the BLACK ground tested at ~7.5, as well.



Despite all the BLACK ground wires testing incorrectly, I tested the YELLOW. BLUE, WHITE/GREEN and BROWN/RED wires on the Driver's Door Switch Pack. The wire tested as follows:

• WHITE/GREEN 11 volts
• BROWN/RED 0 volts
• YELLOW 0 volts
• BLUE 4.5 volts

NOTE: WHITE/GREEN gave a reading with ignition OFF, as well as when it was ON

Do not have complete confidence in my testing abilities.

Here is a photo of my multimeter.


Kind regards,

 

These readings are not right, but I think a low battery in your meter may be at fault. 7.5 x 10 = 75 ohms, when ideally you should see close to zero or a fraction at most.

This poorly dubbed video shows how to properly set up your meter to take a resistance reading:



Set the scale to Rx10. Touch the leads together. Use the thumb wheel on the left side to put the needle on zero. Be careful not to bump it during subsequent measurements. If the needle won’t reach zero, the meter’s battery is probably low. Replace it and try again. If the needle still won’t go to zero with the leads touching, the meter is defective.

Even if the battery was low, the other voltage readings were likely still accurate. Most analog meters only use the internal battery for resistance readings. You can usually take all other readings without a battery even installed.

 

I agree that you might have a multimeter problem. I use a digital one. It can be a bit more accurate. Try a new battery in it or get a slightly better multimeter and retest. Digital ones are quite cheap on fleabay

 

Thanks to kr98664 for the video. Sportston I will look into acquiring a new multimeter and re-testing. More to follow.

Kind regards,

 

First question to verify with your new multimeter. Check the BROWN/RED wire. With ignition on it should show battery voltage. Your first test you say showed zero volts. Was the ignition on?

 

Let us know if you'd like some help picking a new meter. I love spending other people's money!

Unfortunately, your meter doesn't have the resolution desirable for 12VDC systems. It looks to be intended primarily for household power such as 110VAC. Maybe even 220.

 

Finally resolved the problem with my driver's mirror and door lock actuator. The genesis of the problem was a faulty F22 fuse (located in the fuse box under the dash on the passenger-side of the vehicle).

Those of you familiar with my attempts to resolve my mirror and lock actuator problems might think, "But, he said he tested the F22 and F7 fuses first thing." And I did. But, I botched the test of the F22. I screwed up a simple fuse test. Not sure how. I mean, you touch the small metal nubs on the fuse and the light either lights up or it doesn't. The test could not be simpler.

My error came to light when I found myself out of patience and ability, despite good support and ideas from the Forum. So, I packed the S-Type off to an independent jaguar shop expecting a long stay that would require testing dozens of wires; re-stringing broken ones; and costing many dollars. Not so much.

Within an hour, the technician from the shop called to let me know my vehicle was fixed. Stunned, I asked what he had done. He simply replied. "I changed the fuse."

I was at a loss for words. My first thought was to defend myself and say, "But, I tested the fuse!" But it didn't seem too relevant. I had screwed up. Time to admit it and move on.

Although a humiliating and aggravating experience, I did gain increased confidence and skills from all the parts I changed (albeit unnecessarily). And, its good to have your ego meter recalibrated periodically.

My wife put it all in perspective by saying, "If you had been right, it would have been far more expensive." There's that.

Thanks, again to all that helped me work through my mirror and door issues. Regrets for providing you a faulty premise from which to work.

One of the key lessons I am taking away is -- When in doubt, change the fuse.

Kind regards,

 

Doh🤦‍♂️😂

 

I have heard of this happening to other people but have never experienced this myself. What did it feel like?

 

Doesn’t that suck when something that seems so complex turns out to be something simple? Once I was having trouble with my headlight, so I was swapping the relays under the hood in the fuse box without realizing that there were two different types of relays used one is a four pin, and the other is a five pin, and I have swapped a five pin for a four pin so I caused the problem I wasn’t aware of and went down the same kind of rabbit hole you did. But checking the fuses as a first step is now one of the first steps I do.

with the key on you can probe the tops of the fuses, as there are two contacts coming through the plastic fuse cases that you can stick the positive probe of a meter on and easily see when you have voltage on one side but no voltage on the other indicating the fuse is blown.