Valley Hose
#1
Valley Hose
Does anyone have a pic of the fittings
Im looking for a closeup of the fittings themselves
As you all may guess my valley hose is on the way out which is complicated by the fact i'm weeks away from moving house (about 1000km's move) so I cant strip the car down right away and will need to get it transported to my new home
My intention is to replace the hose with an alloy pipe bent to the same shape as the valley hose and use threaded connections at both ends
I could sleeve the ends with a threaded tube and either shrink fit or tig the threaded tube on on (probably both) but Im also looking at tapping the ends and need to know how the hose barbs are connected. Ie are they a press fit or are the cast in ect
Cheers
34by151
Im looking for a closeup of the fittings themselves
As you all may guess my valley hose is on the way out which is complicated by the fact i'm weeks away from moving house (about 1000km's move) so I cant strip the car down right away and will need to get it transported to my new home
My intention is to replace the hose with an alloy pipe bent to the same shape as the valley hose and use threaded connections at both ends
I could sleeve the ends with a threaded tube and either shrink fit or tig the threaded tube on on (probably both) but Im also looking at tapping the ends and need to know how the hose barbs are connected. Ie are they a press fit or are the cast in ect
Cheers
34by151
#2
#4
Yes the dreaded under the S/C hose on the 4.2 S/C
I posted over here as there is a lot more work done on this here for the STR as opposed to the XJ section for my XJR
Im just after pics of the 2 fittings
Changing the hose is not the issue
I plan to replace it with a hard line and not a rubber hose so im just after info on the fittings
As it stands the leak is small. Im moving house so the car is parked up and I am having it put on a transporter so I will be doing the work at my new house. Well after I get a pair of lifts get installed that is!!
Cheers
34by151
I posted over here as there is a lot more work done on this here for the STR as opposed to the XJ section for my XJR
Im just after pics of the 2 fittings
Changing the hose is not the issue
I plan to replace it with a hard line and not a rubber hose so im just after info on the fittings
As it stands the leak is small. Im moving house so the car is parked up and I am having it put on a transporter so I will be doing the work at my new house. Well after I get a pair of lifts get installed that is!!
Cheers
34by151
#5
#6
#7
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#8
They still leak, that's all I know
Sometimes LR forums come up in searches for certain problems.
Did you know they have a water cooled alternator setup? Takes a lot more room though.
The problem with hardlines is they are going to vibrate, work harden, then crack.
A better bet is to somehow turn the fitting around so that the hose can come out
the front and be routed outside of the valley. Just like they did when the assembly
line was still populated by people. As I see it, the reason for the valley placement
is to avoid having hoses flopping around while moving the engine to the vehicle
during assembly. Put the beloved plastic quick connects on them, and it's snap,
snap, lot's of money saved .... for Jaguar.
Drill and tap for new fitting on front surface, then plug up old hole by drilling and tappling as well?
The hose then runs cooler, can be inspected visually, and can be changed from up top.
Sometimes LR forums come up in searches for certain problems.
Did you know they have a water cooled alternator setup? Takes a lot more room though.
The problem with hardlines is they are going to vibrate, work harden, then crack.
A better bet is to somehow turn the fitting around so that the hose can come out
the front and be routed outside of the valley. Just like they did when the assembly
line was still populated by people. As I see it, the reason for the valley placement
is to avoid having hoses flopping around while moving the engine to the vehicle
during assembly. Put the beloved plastic quick connects on them, and it's snap,
snap, lot's of money saved .... for Jaguar.
Drill and tap for new fitting on front surface, then plug up old hole by drilling and tappling as well?
The hose then runs cooler, can be inspected visually, and can be changed from up top.
Last edited by plums; 11-15-2014 at 01:23 AM.
#9
Does anyone have a pic of the fittings
Im looking for a closeup of the fittings themselves
As you all may guess my valley hose is on the way out which is complicated by the fact i'm weeks away from moving house (about 1000km's move) so I cant strip the car down right away and will need to get it transported to my new home
My intention is to replace the hose with an alloy pipe bent to the same shape as the valley hose and use threaded connections at both ends
I could sleeve the ends with a threaded tube and either shrink fit or tig the threaded tube on on (probably both) but Im also looking at tapping the ends and need to know how the hose barbs are connected. Ie are they a press fit or are the cast in ect
Cheers
34by151
Im looking for a closeup of the fittings themselves
As you all may guess my valley hose is on the way out which is complicated by the fact i'm weeks away from moving house (about 1000km's move) so I cant strip the car down right away and will need to get it transported to my new home
My intention is to replace the hose with an alloy pipe bent to the same shape as the valley hose and use threaded connections at both ends
I could sleeve the ends with a threaded tube and either shrink fit or tig the threaded tube on on (probably both) but Im also looking at tapping the ends and need to know how the hose barbs are connected. Ie are they a press fit or are the cast in ect
Cheers
34by151
I looked through my pics from the recent valley hose replacement and sadly could not find any close ups of the fittings. I expect my new rubber hose to last 10 years. Might that be acceptable for you too? Anyway good luck on the project and please let us know what alternatives you consider.
#10
It will be a littile while before I can get into it as we are moving interstate (Approx 1000kms).
The forst task will be to install a pair of lifts (2 post and 4 post) and a new mill and lathe. I have sold my Mill and Lathe as it does not make sense to transport them.
I will also take the time to do a front end rebuild. While the supercharger is out Ill also rebuild that and get the Supercharger, Intercoolers and exhaust manifolds ceramic coated. This is something I have wanted to get done for some time but have waited till I had a need to remove the supercharger.
I also have a powerhouse pulley (had that for quite some time) that will go on at the same time.
My current thinking is to turn up some alloy sleeves with an external thread. Id setup the sleeves to have AN fittings (same as braided hose) then make a hardline the same shape as the rubber hose
I also want to look at the LR parts
Cheers
34by151
The forst task will be to install a pair of lifts (2 post and 4 post) and a new mill and lathe. I have sold my Mill and Lathe as it does not make sense to transport them.
I will also take the time to do a front end rebuild. While the supercharger is out Ill also rebuild that and get the Supercharger, Intercoolers and exhaust manifolds ceramic coated. This is something I have wanted to get done for some time but have waited till I had a need to remove the supercharger.
I also have a powerhouse pulley (had that for quite some time) that will go on at the same time.
My current thinking is to turn up some alloy sleeves with an external thread. Id setup the sleeves to have AN fittings (same as braided hose) then make a hardline the same shape as the rubber hose
I also want to look at the LR parts
Cheers
34by151
#12
#13
#14
I would not recommend a hard pipe, either. Those will tend to crack over time from vibration stress, leaving you with the same issue. Everyone who puts the hose under the intake has the same issue eventually.
My first experience was a 92 Lincoln Town Car that I bought new and back in the winter of 1999/2000, I replaced it before it leaked. It is a hard steel pipe with a rubber hose formed on the end.
Those will all eventually leak, but not as difficult to change as removing the supercharger.
Stick with OEM, please.
My first experience was a 92 Lincoln Town Car that I bought new and back in the winter of 1999/2000, I replaced it before it leaked. It is a hard steel pipe with a rubber hose formed on the end.
Those will all eventually leak, but not as difficult to change as removing the supercharger.
Stick with OEM, please.
#15
I'd agree with you if the pipe had rubber hose to connect it to the block
That severs no point other then to add 2 extra hose clamps
I will be using threaded ends (hydraulic fittings), I also don't see vibration as being an issue as it will be fully supported (bracketed to the block)
Cheers
34by151
That severs no point other then to add 2 extra hose clamps
I will be using threaded ends (hydraulic fittings), I also don't see vibration as being an issue as it will be fully supported (bracketed to the block)
Cheers
34by151
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