Has anyone successfully removed the crankshaft pulley bolt using the cranking method by putting a breaker bar on the bolt and cranking the engine? I need to replace a head gasket on an XK8 V8....If not has anyone used the jack method by putting one end of breaker bar with socket on the bolt, the other end on the floor with the left side of car jacked up and releasing hydraulic jack?

 

i just had the front pulley off and instead of going that route, I wrapped an old belt around the crank pulley and used a 24" chain wrench to hold the pulley while I used a breaker bar and a long pipe to remove the bolt. I think the fan needed to come out for clearance but it was really much easier than I expected. Putting the new (don't re-use the old bolt) bolt back in was more work. I had to wedge a pry bar into the torque converter to lock the engine so I could re torque the new bolt. good luck

 

Here is the correct tool for removing the crankshaft front pulley bolt.

Under no circumstances is the crankshaft holding tool, which is inserted in place of the crankshaft position sensor, to be used to hold the crankshaft whilst attempting to remove the damper bolt.
AJ-V8 Crankshaft Holding Tool

 

 

I purchased and used the tool shown by NBCat, plus a longer adapter since my pulley is deeper for the SC belt. Tool worked perfectly, locking itself against the SC snout. Bolt came out with a little muscle, but not so much strain as to cause a hernia...

My problem is getting the pulley loose.

 

TSBs are your friend


303-10 crank damper remove.pdf

 

Thanks for your replies everyone....I am aware of these methodologies but also saw a post describing one owner's successful use of a breaker bar extended to the floor on the driver's side of the pulley while he briefly touched the starter. I was just wondering if anyone else had success with this method because it seems to be the simplest and putting the breaker bar behind the rod that runs across the suspension looks like it would prevent any unintended damage. His warning was to avoid allowing the key to energize the starter for too long suggesting there is more than enough torque to get the job done.

 

I will admit that I did try the starter method, but it didn't work for me. Starter engaged, but not enough torque. I didn't try it for more than a second though, afraid to fry my starter!

 

This was how I did my V8.
5mm angle iron bolted through the pulley holes, and then through the tensioner pulley bolt hole.
NO TIMING TOOLS FITTED ANYWHERE, just in case of slip, but it wont.
3/4 breaker bar and 24mm 6 point socket.
You can torque it up again the same way

 

After trying unsuccessfully to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt on my XK8 by putting the breaker bar and socket on the bolt and cranking the engine (after removing all the spark plugs and fully charging the battery) I elevated the bar a couple inches and SUCCESS!!! I have been able to crank the engine and unscrew that bolt!!!!! I played around for a couple of weeks occasionally spraying the bolt with liquid wrench, so I wouldn't try this without doing that first. However it is a beautiful sound to hear that bolt cranking out and to feel the gap widening each time I give it a few turns with the ignition key......

No guarantee this will work for you, and of course you always risk damage with a bolt torqued on at over 300 foot pounds, but it worked for me....Again thanks for all the help....I was getting ready to try the belt/chain wrench method, but now I don't need to....JohnW

 

The breaker bar and starter are the ONLY way to easily get the bolt out we use this regularly. You will need a 1/2 or 3/4" breaker/ Dixie bar of about 2' long and a 6 point impact socket in good unworn order. If you look down the front of the engine to the left you will see the chassis leg and anti roll bar. Put the leg of the bar under these, make sure it is well caught and use a bungee to stop it waving about. Rotate the engine so the socket can fit snugly over the bolt. Remove the injector relay in the boot. With everything fitted and secure snap the ignition on for a second to give about 1 full turn. Check the set up is still OK and do this once more. The 'seal' on the bolt will be broken and it will be partly unscrewed. This is easy its putting the bugger back in that's difficult! I have a video somewhere of this being done to a 1998 xk8. There is surprisingly little drama.

 

Re: Re-installing the harmonic balancer, there is a tool you can rent from many auto parts houses. See: Chevy V8 installing harmonic balancer for directions on YouTube. Basically, the tool snugs the balancer down on the crankshaft, then you torque the bolt in place.

 

I use the crankshaft tool with end against some wood set on the lower frame of the car and use a large breaker bar.


do same on other side with big bar to set torque correctly when reinstalling

 

Did someone use the factory tool like stevepaa but on a SC V8? I am wondering if the round part of the tool and also the bolts are long enough for the deeper SC-pulley

Thanks
Hendrik

 

Can this be done with a battery powered impact wrench or is space too tight? If an impact wrench fits, can it also be used to tighten the bolt?

 

l used an ebay knock off on my XKR. Tool l bought was not deep enough for 'R' crank pulley and required slight modification to achieve the reach needed.


 

Thanks Stevepaa; That is the method I used on my '99 4.0. The tool wasn't expensive and after looking at all the options. I felt this was the safest. Worked like charm
Mitch7