XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III 1968-1992

Cylinder head removal tips?

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Old May 19, 2018 | 06:36 PM
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sidescrollin's Avatar
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Default Cylinder head removal tips?

Does anyone have any useful tricks for pulling the XK cylinder head? I've seen pics of people using a bottle jack but has this ever resulting in warping? I just tried to pop the one on my 4.2 and instead I ripped the engine mounts out...

(Yes, the six smaller nuts were removed + 14 head nuts)
 

Last edited by sidescrollin; May 19, 2018 at 06:49 PM.
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Old May 19, 2018 | 08:54 PM
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Easiest way is to remove all the studs. You'll have the head off in no time! Cross fingers that none of 'em break. If the cooling system looks to have been well serviced you'll probably be OK

Otherwise the bottle jack method has always worked best for me.

Warpage? I dunno. I've always used a rebuilt cylinder head so never had to worry.

Cheers
DD
 
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Old May 19, 2018 | 10:31 PM
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I think I'll try leaving the studs alone since they are $20 a piece.

Any size issues with a bottle jack? I don't currently own one and would spend the extra few bucks on an 8 or 12 ton but not if a 4 ton fits better.
 

Last edited by sidescrollin; May 19, 2018 at 10:47 PM.
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Old May 19, 2018 | 11:03 PM
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I used two small ones, 2 ton maybe? $10.99 at the parts store. Not sure if bigger ones would fit right

Cheers
DD
 
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Old May 20, 2018 | 01:22 AM
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2 ton work perfect, $15 at the local parts shop.

Cylinder head removal tips?-dsc_5419.jpgCylinder head removal tips?-dsc_5421.jpg
 
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Old May 20, 2018 | 08:14 AM
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I'll see if they have 2 tons at horrible freight then. Can't say after the engine mount fiasco I'm not genuinely a little bit worried im going to crack the bottom of the block instead of popping this dang head off with bottle jacks.
 
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Old May 20, 2018 | 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by sidescrollin
a little bit worried im going to crack the bottom of the block instead of popping this dang head off with bottle jacks.


Yeah, it'll seem that way until the head finally breaks free


Cheers
DD
 
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Old May 20, 2018 | 10:16 AM
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I'd guess the engine mounts were close to failure anyway,


Carl
 
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Old May 20, 2018 | 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by sidescrollin
I think I'll try leaving the studs alone since they are $20 a piece.

Any size issues with a bottle jack? I don't currently own one and would spend the extra few bucks on an 8 or 12 ton but not if a 4 ton fits better.

The only 2 you will likely need to replace are the ones next to the starter motor.


They will be starting to get thin just above the threads in the main bearing web. (hour glass shaped)


There are a few different lengths so keep them marked as to where they go and you will be fine.


I use a 3 roller type stud extractor and clean the threads up upon re-installation.






Use a long blow gun to clean the debris from the bottom threads before you re-install the studs.


I have done it dozens of times when I worked on these cars daily years ago.


It gives you a chance to inspect each stud for corrosion.


bob
 
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Old May 24, 2018 | 01:04 PM
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So far the bottle jack has done nothing. It is sitting outside under pressure right now. I RTVd bottle caps to the head as reservoirs for 5050 penetrant and so far I've still got 5 that haven't leaked down.

Should I just leave the jack on the head for a while? I haven't put a cheater bar on it since I dont wan to blow the seals on a brand new jack, just hit it with a hammer a few extra times before leaving.
 
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