I purchased a 2000 XK8 convertible recently. While driving slowly (~5 mph) on the highway about a week ago, my dad attempted to put the top up, it sank under its own weight, and we had to put it up manually. Now, the top won't move at all, I hear the ding after I press the button but nothing happens. Upon inspection it looks like the reservoir is completely empty. Do I need to take it to a mechanic, or can I just refill it? I'm not sure which type of fluid the previous owner used, so maybe it needs to be flushed completely. I turned the valve on the pump counter-clockwise and put the top up myself, but unfortunately the back windows are stuck down, and when I try to put up the top I hear a pulling noise, so the car must think the windows are in the wrong position. Any advice? I hope it's not a leak.

Jacob

 

Hi,

Sorry to hear about your convertible top troubles. As this is a new car for you, is this the first time you’ve tried the top?

When you bought the car, was the hydraulic pump tank full? Silly question but if you have a leak, the high pressure system can make a real mess.

First, can you see all around the pump? Check there first before filling.


Taking the pump off it’s rack mount is easy. 2 bolts on front of base and just pull rear base plugs out. If you don’t want to move it as pipes look old and fragile, it can be done in situ with a small pump and/or a kitchen turkey baster through the brass top bolt.

Make sure you use proper hydraulic fluid. This fluid came with my replacement hoses. Other brands are fine like Pentosin but make sure as it’s a 1600psi Uber high pressure system.


Good news is that system self bleeds and air bubbles collects in the tank.

If you continue to lose fluid, check under rear seats. Again easy to take out the rear seats. Just two bolts underneath but you’ll need to fiddle with the seat belt retainer.


This pic shows Signsof fluid leak at the top hydraulic rams located behind the rear quarter panel.

There is the infamous “green shower” as the overhead latch is also hydraulic. Plenty of info on other threads here if you use the search feature.

 

Welcome to the forum, sorry about the top issues. If the top is put up manually, you have to ensure that the hydraulic rams behind the rear seat are fully extended to engage the rear window limit switch. You can also jumper the window circuitry so they will go up. See this link to Gus's site with excellent info to assist. I would bookmark Gus's site as well as the Stickies at the top of the XK8/R section as there is a ton of useful information

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

As this is your first post, please stop by the new member section and post an intro. In return, you will receive a warm welcome along with useful tips to navigate the forum

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/n...-intro-must-5/

 

Thanks for the reply. I drove the car for about a week and the top worked fine in that time, I figured the top sinking was due to me moving. I'm not sure of the fluid level when I bought it.

 

Have you checked the centre light above your head in the front of the car? Thats where is usually leaks from. You might find this a useful read. Click Me To Read.

Let us know how you get on wont you?

 

I was driving to the jaguar dealer this morning to buy more hydraulic fluid and see if a mechanic would look at it, I reached for the light and it got all over my fingers! Going to bring it to my Jaguar specialist to get it fixed on Monday, he said he could replace the hose for me in a few hours. Luckily the leak is mostly contained. Thank you for the help @frankc .

 

Just had another thought, I get them sometimes, Is the fluid your using in the tank the right one? As Davidyau said you can use other fluids like Pentosin, I personally used Pentosin. They changed to Pentosin because the old stuff used to breakdown over time and clog up the system.

If you do change your Hydraulic hoses do not use Jag ones. They are not up to the job and are very expensive.

 

I tried to quick reply, but it looks like it needed moderator approval. There is definitely a leak near the latch, I feel hydraulic fluid in the lamp control. I’m going to take the car to my Jaguar mechanic on Monday, I don’t have time to mess with it now. I think he’s going to repair the hose, then I may replace it later.

EDIT: As far as I know the reservoir was almost empty when I bought it, there’s very little mess, not the “rain” others described. I just had 8 front bushings and all struts replaced, besides that the car is in great mechanical standing. : )

EDIT 2: I’ve attached a picture for those interested:

 

Jacob,

Glad you caught the leak early. Great photos in Frankc's link with the typically seen failure of a burst pipe at the fitting of the hydraulic line leading to the latch.
BTW did you get the quarter windows up? Skilimii mentioned jumping the circuitary (once you have the top up and fixed manually). See YouTube link below.

Two further things to consider
1. Quality of your mechanic's "patch" repair. If there's enough play in the pipe length, ask him if he's planning to cut the burst section off, and pulling on it to re-fit the threaded section onto a good bit of pipe. .
2. Alternatively if there's not enough play, he'll have to cut a length off and join with a new pipe. Worth noting that Jaguar did issue a TSB with a repair pipe "jointing" kit, but this was a failure and discontinued.

As Frankc rightly said, in the link he provided, it would be preferable to do a full replacement of the hydraulic lines to the overhead latch. Maybe worth considering that now as once the pipes start degrading, you're just asking for trouble. Maybe worth considering now just cleaning up the mess, which is DIY-able, and accepting that the hood is fixed until you get the replacement hydraulic lines. FWIW Maybe inspect all the pipes as you don't want to fix the latch lines, only to have the other pipes to the hydraulic rams burst later. If the pipes go at the pump, you'll have a green "wee" puddle on the floor at the rear right tyre, and for me the hydraulic fluid found it's way to all the stuff near the battery and made a real mess. Took ages to clean out, and caused all sorts of intermittent problems as the main battery ground is there too.

FYI There's a long term mitigation fix of putting a resistor on the pump's power supply lines, to moderate the pressure, to reduce the risk of blown lines. There's a YouTube video by the Rev. Sam. Link below. Looks simple enough but, to be fair, I haven't got round to that yet.

 

I'm driving down the east coast on Tuesday and I'd like to have the top operational. He told me he'd replace the whole pipe if not safely repairable. I'm not overly worried since the shop specializes in classic Jags, and even has a hydraulic specialist. I haven't bothered with the windows, I just put the top down while I was driving and left it at the dealer, going to go back on Monday since they can't repair it in time.

 

I'm driving down the east coast on Tuesday and I'd like to have the top operational. He told me he'd replace the whole host if not safely repairable. I'm not overly worried since the shop specializes in classic Jags, and even has a hydraulic specialist. I haven't bothered with the windows, I just put the top down while I was driving and left it at the dealer, going to go back on Monday since they can't repair it in time.

 

As stated above, hose patch jobs in these cases simply do not hold up to the extreme pressures. Do not waste your time and money on a patch - your existing hoses have degraded to the point where they are simply not up to the task. Go with the far superior and well-proven aftermarket hose kits from one of the several sources that sell them (Top Hydraulics in the US, Cabriolet Roof Hoses in the UK, etc.)….

 

During a pre purchase inspection is there a place to look for top leaks? Certainly can't pull the center light but I guess a close inspection might reveal hydraulic fluid around the molding.

If top is leaking how much should I budget for a professional repair complete with new hoses?

 

66RBS - you can feel around the light as you cycle the top, you can also pull back the carpet in the trunk that surrounds the cd player and pump - look for flaked bits of plastic sheathing or evidence of leakage. If I recall others have paid anywhere from 800-1200 to have hoses replaced. It is a DIY job, just plan on a full day

 

The hoses will fail eventually, unless it's a 97, they had a different hose. Just look at the hoses at the hydraulic pump. If the outer black cover is flaking off, they need to be replaced. I believe it costs about $2000 to have a shop replace all of them, much more at a dealer if they will even do it..

 

Hate to cause you worry but Jaguar estimated 6K+ (UK) to fix mine. In the end did it myself and it cost £120 UK money.

 

Did you replace all the hoses or just the latch pair for that price?

 

If you look at my photos I replaced both hoses. Obviously not Jaguar ones but ones rated to a higher pressure and built better. The cost was £110 for both hoses delivered the other £10 were for other odd bits and pieces.

I replaced both as its just as easy to do two as one. The other would have failed eventually too.

 

I assumed you did both, which is why I said pair. That's what I did. So we both have to do the four ram hoses eventually. That's a good price for the latch hoses. The ones from Top Hydraulics are more expensive.

 

What should I just get repaired? Just the hose if leaking up top, or both while I'm at it? I hope the pump is okay.

EDIT: @DavidYau do you know Sam's forum handle? I suppose I should buy a resistor.