So. I unfortunately ran out of gas this past week. and after adding minimal to make it to gas station - the car sputtered to a stop and refuses to crank. It turns over - but after adding 1/4 of gas - i can no longer hear the fuel pump " whine ".

i ran through the instrument cluster codes and see that there is now a A141 which - B2141 NVM Config Failure. When i try to start the vehicle the red light below the gear shift doesnt stay on when attempting to start.

Is this a fail safe from VATS? FOB battery? Air in the fuel line?

the cluster diagnostic shows:

F1 = 104 Fuel pump pressure?
F2 = 083/84 Transfer Pump Pressure?
FP1 = 061 = Drivers side fuel level
FP2 = 044 = Passengers side fuel level?

Help. oO

 

Your fuel pump may be gone. Do you have any codes you can pull from the OBD2 ?

 

No OBD reader yet. I transcribed the Cluster codes as..

E511 / U2511 - CAN comm bus fault
D900 / U1900 - Same as Above
9318 / B1318 - Battery voltage low ( Voltage shows 11.5/6 )
A141 / B2141 - NVM Config Failure ( possible fob battery??? ) = Vats issue??

 

I agree with Spikepaga about the fuel pump. In-tank pumps rely on the gasoline in the tank as a cooling medium. When you ran out of gas the pump may have overheated and died. Unfortunately, no easy to confirm this without pulling the pump.

 

i've checked the following fuses..

Engine Fuse Box:
F10 - Ignition Coils = ok
F17 - Fuel Injectors = ok
F19 - ECM = ok

Interior Fuse Box
F31 - Ignition Switch = ok
F36 - Throttle Motor Relay = ok

F17 - Fuel Pump = ok
( removed fuse - tried to crank ( hoping to disperse any air ) put back in-place.


So. With a 14/15 year old vehicle. In-which i purchased last Nov. In Buffalo - from a one owner ( salt conditions )
Obviously..

1st. Fuel Filter.
2nd. ( Please tell me theres an easier way ) to access the pump to check - Fuel pump screen, etc? Fuel Pump Driver Module? Location??

Thanks for the prompt response.

Cb

 

You are going to have to cut that hole in the rear like the rest of us. I was dreading it and dragged it right across the finish line because I need to take the car on a 6 hour trip pretty soon, but you can do it all for around 100 dollars.

 

You really need an OBD reader to pull any codes, read the fuel pressure (torque app) before jumping to any definitive answer(s). Also, take a rubber mallet and SOFTLY tap the bottom of your tank (it's plastic) on the right hand side with the ignition on to MAYBE jolt the pump off a flat or dead spot.

 

I tried the rubber mallet @ the "half moon " spot and nothing.

To note - When the car initially sputtered & died out - after putting minimal fuel in ~ I noticed that the R5 & R7 relays, Power distribution / fuse-box ignition relay & EMS control relay - were warm to the touch.

These two relays are not black like the windshield wiper motor one(s) but the cream color. Wasn't there an Upgrade for these "faulty" relays?
I'm assuming these are the original ones.

I've been researching this Alllll day to hopefully avoid the trunk dilemma.

Thanks in Advance

 

Definitely check the fual filter. Maybe something plugged it up from running the tank so low.

When you turn the key to the second position where everything lights up, but it doesn't crank, you no longer hear the fuel pump at all now?

 

No noise or "humm" from the fuel pump. I've leaned behind the rear tire while another turns the key ~ and nothing.
I tried the mallet option yesterday - but I didnt have the other person turn the key to the on position.
I'll try that in the morning when I'm able to get back to the vehicle.

I'll replace the fuel filter either way - the car has 123,000 miles on it and I personally haven't replaced it within the 23,000 since I've owned her.

I've read alot on other pages / the Jaguar Training ( EMS Diagnostics ) and i'll definately take the volt meter with me tomorrow. to allow for further troubleshooting assisting from you guys.

Thanks alot ~ truly ~ for helping me out on a Saturday Afternoon / Evening.

Cb

 

Wow - Spikepaga ,

Just reviewed your posting(s) from today. You are Truly at the same point ( almost ) as me.

I'm hoping as well - if it does come down to replacing the Fuel Pump ~ I'm able to only purchase the pump itself, with possible the correct connector ( pigtail vs. straight connector, etc ) Looks Daunting for Sure !!



Cb

 

It's really not that hard. You can read my thread " my kitty died today" = with discussion, pics, exact measurements, etc. IF I had ALL the parts to begin with (ring removal tool, gasket) using the air driven nipper I got at Harbor Freight, I think it would of been around 4 hours total from start to finish. The most worrisome part was, as you mentioned, the correct electrical connector (pigtail vs oblong). I lucked out and bought the one with oblong and that was what mine had.

If you buy the pump only as Spike and some others have done, the connector is a non issue.