2006 3.0l sport wagon with DSC transfer case interchangability
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From: Central PA, USA
2006 3.0l sport wagon with DSC transfer case interchangability
I'm fairly certain my transfer case is failing on my 2006 3.0l sport wagon with DSC. what transfer cases are interchangeable. I'm confused on compatibility because of Dynamic stability control. I know they changed them post 2003. So what should I be looking for?
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Any post 2004+ , DSC is =
When ESC (DSC) detects loss of steeringcontrol, it automatically applies the brakes to help "steer" the vehicle where the driver intends to go. Braking is automatically applied to wheels individually, such as the outer front wheel to counter oversteer or the inner rear wheel to counter understeer.
When ESC (DSC) detects loss of steeringcontrol, it automatically applies the brakes to help "steer" the vehicle where the driver intends to go. Braking is automatically applied to wheels individually, such as the outer front wheel to counter oversteer or the inner rear wheel to counter understeer.
Last edited by Dell Gailey; Aug 9, 2018 at 02:32 PM.
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From: Central PA, USA
Any post 2004+ , DSC is =
When ESC (DSC) detects loss of steeringcontrol, it automatically applies the brakes to help "steer" the vehicle where the driver intends to go. Braking is automatically applied to wheels individually, such as the outer front wheel to counter oversteer or the inner rear wheel to counter understeer.
When ESC (DSC) detects loss of steeringcontrol, it automatically applies the brakes to help "steer" the vehicle where the driver intends to go. Braking is automatically applied to wheels individually, such as the outer front wheel to counter oversteer or the inner rear wheel to counter understeer.
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From: Houston, TX
MWag630: Thermo describes the transfer case and ABS / DSC interplay in this post: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...1/#post1923155
"Both styles of transfer cases will fit in your car. it is a matter of whether you want the viscous coupling or not. The quick check that you can do is look in
the driver's door jam. ON the sticker that should be there is the build date of your car. If it is on/before March 2004, you have the viscous coupled transfer
case. If it is April 2004 or later, then you have the re-designed (open differential style) transfer case.
The benefit of the viscous coupled transfer case (the earlier style) is that you always have power to a 1 front and 1 rear wheel. Where, the later transfer
cases, you can loose power to one wheel and it will take all the power, leaving the other 3 sitting there. This is why jaguar went to mandating that all
2005+ vehicles come with DSC. As long as you keep all 4 wheels spinning at the same rate, then both transfer cases will provide power to all 4 wheels."
So the logic is this:
1) The 2002-2004 transfer case with viscous coupling handles best with DSC, but even without DSC the viscous coupling applies power to at least 1 front and 1 rear wheel on slippery roads.
2) The 2005+ transfer case without viscous coupling handles best with DSC to ensure power is applied to the front and rear wheels on slippery roads..
Your 2006, if I understand correctly, has the newer transfer case without viscous coupling, and ABS with DSC for optimal control of all 4 wheels on slick roads, yes?
When your DCS failed, you say you temporarily disabled the ABS, then installed a repaired ABS. The new ABS has the same Bosch part number as the old ABS, and your ABS with DSC now works properly, yes? If correct, then when you replace your failing transfer case, I don't think it matters whether you use the 2002-2004 with viscous coupling or the 2005+ without viscous coupling, because either way the ABS and DSC ensures power to all 4 wheels on slick roads.
Just curious, did you replace only the electronic side of the ABS - the black plastic box with the large electrical connector - the side most likely to fail? Or did you also replace the hydraulic side of the ABS - the square aluminum block with 6 metal brake lines attached?
My 2002 has viscous coupling and DSC. When the electronic ABS module threw error codes, it was repaired by Gino Nabedrik, Module Repair Pro in Van Nuys California. No problems since that repair.
"Both styles of transfer cases will fit in your car. it is a matter of whether you want the viscous coupling or not. The quick check that you can do is look in
the driver's door jam. ON the sticker that should be there is the build date of your car. If it is on/before March 2004, you have the viscous coupled transfer
case. If it is April 2004 or later, then you have the re-designed (open differential style) transfer case.
The benefit of the viscous coupled transfer case (the earlier style) is that you always have power to a 1 front and 1 rear wheel. Where, the later transfer
cases, you can loose power to one wheel and it will take all the power, leaving the other 3 sitting there. This is why jaguar went to mandating that all
2005+ vehicles come with DSC. As long as you keep all 4 wheels spinning at the same rate, then both transfer cases will provide power to all 4 wheels."
So the logic is this:
1) The 2002-2004 transfer case with viscous coupling handles best with DSC, but even without DSC the viscous coupling applies power to at least 1 front and 1 rear wheel on slippery roads.
2) The 2005+ transfer case without viscous coupling handles best with DSC to ensure power is applied to the front and rear wheels on slippery roads..
Your 2006, if I understand correctly, has the newer transfer case without viscous coupling, and ABS with DSC for optimal control of all 4 wheels on slick roads, yes?
When your DCS failed, you say you temporarily disabled the ABS, then installed a repaired ABS. The new ABS has the same Bosch part number as the old ABS, and your ABS with DSC now works properly, yes? If correct, then when you replace your failing transfer case, I don't think it matters whether you use the 2002-2004 with viscous coupling or the 2005+ without viscous coupling, because either way the ABS and DSC ensures power to all 4 wheels on slick roads.
Just curious, did you replace only the electronic side of the ABS - the black plastic box with the large electrical connector - the side most likely to fail? Or did you also replace the hydraulic side of the ABS - the square aluminum block with 6 metal brake lines attached?
My 2002 has viscous coupling and DSC. When the electronic ABS module threw error codes, it was repaired by Gino Nabedrik, Module Repair Pro in Van Nuys California. No problems since that repair.
Last edited by dwclapp; Aug 10, 2018 at 08:07 AM.
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Sorry to once again correct an erroneous statement = "This is why jaguar went to mandating that all
2005+ vehicles come with DSC".
This is NOT true, DSC was an OPTION (@~$450.00 in U.S.A.) As stated before in this forum, my 2006 does not have DSC. An oddity on my sticker (dealer gave me from previous owner), is mine says it has what Americans would call electronic stability control, which is an electronically controlled application on the slipping wheel(s). I wouldn't even know what or where to verify this, it's just listed on the sticker.
2005+ vehicles come with DSC".
This is NOT true, DSC was an OPTION (@~$450.00 in U.S.A.) As stated before in this forum, my 2006 does not have DSC. An oddity on my sticker (dealer gave me from previous owner), is mine says it has what Americans would call electronic stability control, which is an electronically controlled application on the slipping wheel(s). I wouldn't even know what or where to verify this, it's just listed on the sticker.
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MWag630: Thermo describes the transfer case and ABS / DSC interplay in this post: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...1/#post1923155
"Both styles of transfer cases will fit in your car. it is a matter of whether you want the viscous coupling or not. The quick check that you can do is look in
the driver's door jam. ON the sticker that should be there is the build date of your car. If it is on/before March 2004, you have the viscous coupled transfer
case. If it is April 2004 or later, then you have the re-designed (open differential style) transfer case.
The benefit of the viscous coupled transfer case (the earlier style) is that you always have power to a 1 front and 1 rear wheel. Where, the later transfer
cases, you can loose power to one wheel and it will take all the power, leaving the other 3 sitting there. This is why jaguar went to mandating that all
2005+ vehicles come with DSC. As long as you keep all 4 wheels spinning at the same rate, then both transfer cases will provide power to all 4 wheels."
So the logic is this:
1) The 2002-2004 transfer case with viscous coupling handles best with DSC, but even without DSC the viscous coupling applies power to at least 1 front and 1 rear wheel on slippery roads.
2) The 2005+ transfer case without viscous coupling handles best with DSC to ensure power is applied to the front and rear wheels on slippery roads..
Your 2006, if I understand correctly, has the newer transfer case without viscous coupling, and ABS with DSC for optimal control of all 4 wheels on slick roads, yes?
When your DCS failed, you say you temporarily disabled the ABS, then installed a repaired ABS. The new ABS has the same Bosch part number as the old ABS, and your ABS with DSC now works properly, yes? If correct, then when you replace your failing transfer case, I don't think it matters whether you use the 2002-2004 with viscous coupling or the 2005+ without viscous coupling, because either way the ABS and DSC ensures power to all 4 wheels on slick roads.
Just curious, did you replace only the electronic side of the ABS - the black plastic box with the large electrical connector - the side most likely to fail? Or did you also replace the hydraulic side of the ABS - the square aluminum block with 6 metal brake lines attached?
My 2002 has viscous coupling and DSC. When the electronic ABS module threw error codes, it was repaired by Gino Nabedrik, Module Repair Pro in Van Nuys California. No problems since that repair.
"Both styles of transfer cases will fit in your car. it is a matter of whether you want the viscous coupling or not. The quick check that you can do is look in
the driver's door jam. ON the sticker that should be there is the build date of your car. If it is on/before March 2004, you have the viscous coupled transfer
case. If it is April 2004 or later, then you have the re-designed (open differential style) transfer case.
The benefit of the viscous coupled transfer case (the earlier style) is that you always have power to a 1 front and 1 rear wheel. Where, the later transfer
cases, you can loose power to one wheel and it will take all the power, leaving the other 3 sitting there. This is why jaguar went to mandating that all
2005+ vehicles come with DSC. As long as you keep all 4 wheels spinning at the same rate, then both transfer cases will provide power to all 4 wheels."
So the logic is this:
1) The 2002-2004 transfer case with viscous coupling handles best with DSC, but even without DSC the viscous coupling applies power to at least 1 front and 1 rear wheel on slippery roads.
2) The 2005+ transfer case without viscous coupling handles best with DSC to ensure power is applied to the front and rear wheels on slippery roads..
Your 2006, if I understand correctly, has the newer transfer case without viscous coupling, and ABS with DSC for optimal control of all 4 wheels on slick roads, yes?
When your DCS failed, you say you temporarily disabled the ABS, then installed a repaired ABS. The new ABS has the same Bosch part number as the old ABS, and your ABS with DSC now works properly, yes? If correct, then when you replace your failing transfer case, I don't think it matters whether you use the 2002-2004 with viscous coupling or the 2005+ without viscous coupling, because either way the ABS and DSC ensures power to all 4 wheels on slick roads.
Just curious, did you replace only the electronic side of the ABS - the black plastic box with the large electrical connector - the side most likely to fail? Or did you also replace the hydraulic side of the ABS - the square aluminum block with 6 metal brake lines attached?
My 2002 has viscous coupling and DSC. When the electronic ABS module threw error codes, it was repaired by Gino Nabedrik, Module Repair Pro in Van Nuys California. No problems since that repair.
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MWag630: Does the replacement ABS have the same Bosch part numbers as the factory original ABS, both the ABS hydraulic module (stamped in the top of the aluminum block), and the ABS electrical module (a sticker on the bottom of the black plastic)? The Bosch part numbers will be something like 0 265 225 XXX for the hydraulic module and 0 265 950 XXX for the electrical module, where XXX are 3 digits. Jaguar used different Bosch ABS modules for different model years and for X-Types with or without DSC.
What was the original problem that caused you to replace the ABS?
Do you have a code reader for ABS error codes? If 'yes', what are error codes? If 'no', consider buying or borrowing one. I use an Autel AL619, but many others are available. Without the ABS error codes, troubleshooting is very difficult.
What was the original problem that caused you to replace the ABS?
Do you have a code reader for ABS error codes? If 'yes', what are error codes? If 'no', consider buying or borrowing one. I use an Autel AL619, but many others are available. Without the ABS error codes, troubleshooting is very difficult.
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MWag630: Does the replacement ABS have the same Bosch part numbers as the factory original ABS, both the ABS hydraulic module (stamped in the top of the aluminum block), and the ABS electrical module (a sticker on the bottom of the black plastic)? The Bosch part numbers will be something like 0 265 225 XXX for the hydraulic module and 0 265 950 XXX for the electrical module, where XXX are 3 digits. Jaguar used different Bosch ABS modules for different model years and for X-Types with or without DSC.
What was the original problem that caused you to replace the ABS?
Do you have a code reader for ABS error codes? If 'yes', what are error codes? If 'no', consider buying or borrowing one. I use an Autel AL619, but many others are available. Without the ABS error codes, troubleshooting is very difficult.
What was the original problem that caused you to replace the ABS?
Do you have a code reader for ABS error codes? If 'yes', what are error codes? If 'no', consider buying or borrowing one. I use an Autel AL619, but many others are available. Without the ABS error codes, troubleshooting is very difficult.
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 809
Likes: 289
From: Houston, TX
Mwag630: OK, to help us help you...…
1) Before you replaced the entire ABS / DSC module, the brakes would surge when you pressed the brake pedal. Can you add some details? For example, was any brake work done before the brake surging began? Did it start gradually or suddenly. "Surging" means different things to different people - what do you mean by brake "surging". Did it occur at slow speeds, high speeds, all speeds? Before you swapped the ABS, could you make the surging stop by disabling the ABS? Any engine or ABS error codes? How many miles on your 2006 3.0L Sport wagon?
2) You replaced the entire ABS module, both electrical and hydraulic parts with a used ABS with Bosch part numbers that matched the original ABS. Did the surging continue, or did it stop after you swapped the ABS? Did any new symptoms begin after the swap. Can you now make the surging stop by disabling the ABS? Any engine or ABS error codes?
3) Why do you suspect the transfer case is bad or has anything to do with this brake surging and ABS problem? It simply transfers power from the transmission to all 4 wheels.
1) Before you replaced the entire ABS / DSC module, the brakes would surge when you pressed the brake pedal. Can you add some details? For example, was any brake work done before the brake surging began? Did it start gradually or suddenly. "Surging" means different things to different people - what do you mean by brake "surging". Did it occur at slow speeds, high speeds, all speeds? Before you swapped the ABS, could you make the surging stop by disabling the ABS? Any engine or ABS error codes? How many miles on your 2006 3.0L Sport wagon?
2) You replaced the entire ABS module, both electrical and hydraulic parts with a used ABS with Bosch part numbers that matched the original ABS. Did the surging continue, or did it stop after you swapped the ABS? Did any new symptoms begin after the swap. Can you now make the surging stop by disabling the ABS? Any engine or ABS error codes?
3) Why do you suspect the transfer case is bad or has anything to do with this brake surging and ABS problem? It simply transfers power from the transmission to all 4 wheels.
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From: Central PA, USA
Mwag630: OK, to help us help you...…
1) Before you replaced the entire ABS / DSC module, the brakes would surge when you pressed the brake pedal. Can you add some details? For example, was any brake work done before the brake surging began? Did it start gradually or suddenly. "Surging" means different things to different people - what do you mean by brake "surging". Did it occur at slow speeds, high speeds, all speeds? Before you swapped the ABS, could you make the surging stop by disabling the ABS? Any engine or ABS error codes? How many miles on your 2006 3.0L Sport wagon?
2) You replaced the entire ABS module, both electrical and hydraulic parts with a used ABS with Bosch part numbers that matched the original ABS. Did the surging continue, or did it stop after you swapped the ABS? Did any new symptoms begin after the swap. Can you now make the surging stop by disabling the ABS? Any engine or ABS error codes?
3) Why do you suspect the transfer case is bad or has anything to do with this brake surging and ABS problem? It simply transfers power from the transmission to all 4 wheels.
1) Before you replaced the entire ABS / DSC module, the brakes would surge when you pressed the brake pedal. Can you add some details? For example, was any brake work done before the brake surging began? Did it start gradually or suddenly. "Surging" means different things to different people - what do you mean by brake "surging". Did it occur at slow speeds, high speeds, all speeds? Before you swapped the ABS, could you make the surging stop by disabling the ABS? Any engine or ABS error codes? How many miles on your 2006 3.0L Sport wagon?
2) You replaced the entire ABS module, both electrical and hydraulic parts with a used ABS with Bosch part numbers that matched the original ABS. Did the surging continue, or did it stop after you swapped the ABS? Did any new symptoms begin after the swap. Can you now make the surging stop by disabling the ABS? Any engine or ABS error codes?
3) Why do you suspect the transfer case is bad or has anything to do with this brake surging and ABS problem? It simply transfers power from the transmission to all 4 wheels.
Last edited by Mwag630; Aug 10, 2018 at 10:13 PM.
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I also forgot to mention in my novel lol that while the abs/dsc is working properly, the car will not drive, it keeps going into gearbox fault, the transfer case makes awful sounds. But once the abs/dsc is disabled and the faults lights are present the car drives great and brakes function great aside from no ABS function. the automatic transmission shifts great and functions properly.
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Just my 2 cents and logical thinking. If it were indeed the transfer case, disabling any braking component would not affect your transfer case. By disabling whatever you do and "the car drives fine" would be counter intuitive to transfer case.
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Just for giggles, read and try post #10 here =
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...eeding-204673/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...eeding-204673/
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From: Houston, TX
Mwag630: I'm really struggling to see a pattern to the symptoms you describe. Too many variables are changing to discern cause and effect. Let's try to simplify and exclude possible culprits.
+ When you disable the ABS and drive on dry pavement, does the car drive, accelerate, shift and brake properly? If 'yes', then the engine, transmission, transfer case, brake booster and brake master cylinder are probably functioning properly.
+ When you enable the ABS, does the car have numerous problems with the brakes, and when you disable the ABS, do all these brake problems go away, only to return each time you enable the ABS? If 'yes', then the culprit is must be somewhere in the ABS system. How are you disabling the ABS?
+ Did these numerous brake problems occur before AND after you replaced the Bosch ABS module, electric and hydraulic components, with a used ABS module with matching Bosch part numbers? If 'yes', this suggests the problem is in the ABS system but not in the electric or hydraulic ABS modules.
+ Do the brake problems occur and go away when you enable and disable the DSC with the DSC button by the J-gate shifter?
+ If I understand correctly, you replaced 3 of the 4 wheel speed sensors, both front wheel bearings, and the rear driver side hub. Have you spun all 4 wheels by hand while checking the voltage output of each speed sensor to confirm the voltage signal changes with the speed each wheel spins? If not, try doing this to confirm all 4 speed sensors are working properly. If you are unsure how to do this, let us know.
I'm running out of ideas, so let's start here.
+ When you disable the ABS and drive on dry pavement, does the car drive, accelerate, shift and brake properly? If 'yes', then the engine, transmission, transfer case, brake booster and brake master cylinder are probably functioning properly.
+ When you enable the ABS, does the car have numerous problems with the brakes, and when you disable the ABS, do all these brake problems go away, only to return each time you enable the ABS? If 'yes', then the culprit is must be somewhere in the ABS system. How are you disabling the ABS?
+ Did these numerous brake problems occur before AND after you replaced the Bosch ABS module, electric and hydraulic components, with a used ABS module with matching Bosch part numbers? If 'yes', this suggests the problem is in the ABS system but not in the electric or hydraulic ABS modules.
+ Do the brake problems occur and go away when you enable and disable the DSC with the DSC button by the J-gate shifter?
+ If I understand correctly, you replaced 3 of the 4 wheel speed sensors, both front wheel bearings, and the rear driver side hub. Have you spun all 4 wheels by hand while checking the voltage output of each speed sensor to confirm the voltage signal changes with the speed each wheel spins? If not, try doing this to confirm all 4 speed sensors are working properly. If you are unsure how to do this, let us know.
I'm running out of ideas, so let's start here.
Thread Starter
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Junior Member
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From: Central PA, USA
Just for giggles, read and try post #10 here =
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...eeding-204673/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...eeding-204673/
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 14
Likes: 1
From: Central PA, USA
Mwag630: I'm really struggling to see a pattern to the symptoms you describe. Too many variables are changing to discern cause and effect. Let's try to simplify and exclude possible culprits.
+ When you disable the ABS and drive on dry pavement, does the car drive, accelerate, shift and brake properly? If 'yes', then the engine, transmission, transfer case, brake booster and brake master cylinder are probably functioning properly.
+ When you enable the ABS, does the car have numerous problems with the brakes, and when you disable the ABS, do all these brake problems go away, only to return each time you enable the ABS? If 'yes', then the culprit is must be somewhere in the ABS system. How are you disabling the ABS?
+ Did these numerous brake problems occur before AND after you replaced the Bosch ABS module, electric and hydraulic components, with a used ABS module with matching Bosch part numbers? If 'yes', this suggests the problem is in the ABS system but not in the electric or hydraulic ABS modules.
+ Do the brake problems occur and go away when you enable and disable the DSC with the DSC button by the J-gate shifter?
+ If I understand correctly, you replaced 3 of the 4 wheel speed sensors, both front wheel bearings, and the rear driver side hub. Have you spun all 4 wheels by hand while checking the voltage output of each speed sensor to confirm the voltage signal changes with the speed each wheel spins? If not, try doing this to confirm all 4 speed sensors are working properly. If you are unsure how to do this, let us know.
I'm running out of ideas, so let's start here.
+ When you disable the ABS and drive on dry pavement, does the car drive, accelerate, shift and brake properly? If 'yes', then the engine, transmission, transfer case, brake booster and brake master cylinder are probably functioning properly.
+ When you enable the ABS, does the car have numerous problems with the brakes, and when you disable the ABS, do all these brake problems go away, only to return each time you enable the ABS? If 'yes', then the culprit is must be somewhere in the ABS system. How are you disabling the ABS?
+ Did these numerous brake problems occur before AND after you replaced the Bosch ABS module, electric and hydraulic components, with a used ABS module with matching Bosch part numbers? If 'yes', this suggests the problem is in the ABS system but not in the electric or hydraulic ABS modules.
+ Do the brake problems occur and go away when you enable and disable the DSC with the DSC button by the J-gate shifter?
+ If I understand correctly, you replaced 3 of the 4 wheel speed sensors, both front wheel bearings, and the rear driver side hub. Have you spun all 4 wheels by hand while checking the voltage output of each speed sensor to confirm the voltage signal changes with the speed each wheel spins? If not, try doing this to confirm all 4 speed sensors are working properly. If you are unsure how to do this, let us know.
I'm running out of ideas, so let's start here.
Last edited by Mwag630; Aug 11, 2018 at 02:08 AM.
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From: Houston, TX
Mwag630: You say "All of my brake issues began after replacing the driver side wheel bearing and hub assembly". The front wheel bearings have a magnet on one side, which is supposed to face the speed sensor. If the bearing is installed backwards, a common mistake, the magnet is too far from the speed sensor to generate a signal, and the ABS "thinks" that wheel is locked, as if sliding on ice, while the other 3 wheels are turning on dry pavement, causing the ABS system to activate and the problems you're experiencing.
To confirm, spin both front wheels by hand with a DC voltmeter connected to the speed sensors. There a plenty of YouTube videos how to do this. Your mechanic may have installed one or both front wheel bearings backwards.
If 1 or 2 front wheel bearings are installed backwards, and those wheel speed sensors can't get a reading, then the ABS module is not the problem, which is why replacing the ABS module didn't solve the problem.
The speedometer calculates the car's speed by averaging the speed of the 4 tires. IIRC, if one speed sensor stops working, the speedometer still works, but if 2 or 3 speed sensors stop working, the speedometer won't work. Thermo has some insightful posts on this topic, so try an advance search for his posts on "speedometer". This is good to know, because your malfunctioning speedometer is a clue how many wheel speed sensors are malfunctioning.
If the brakes work properly when you have intentionally disabled the ABS, then the brake booster rod length is properly set, so there's no need to change it (and it won't solve the braking problem when the ABS is enabled).
To confirm, spin both front wheels by hand with a DC voltmeter connected to the speed sensors. There a plenty of YouTube videos how to do this. Your mechanic may have installed one or both front wheel bearings backwards.
If 1 or 2 front wheel bearings are installed backwards, and those wheel speed sensors can't get a reading, then the ABS module is not the problem, which is why replacing the ABS module didn't solve the problem.
The speedometer calculates the car's speed by averaging the speed of the 4 tires. IIRC, if one speed sensor stops working, the speedometer still works, but if 2 or 3 speed sensors stop working, the speedometer won't work. Thermo has some insightful posts on this topic, so try an advance search for his posts on "speedometer". This is good to know, because your malfunctioning speedometer is a clue how many wheel speed sensors are malfunctioning.
If the brakes work properly when you have intentionally disabled the ABS, then the brake booster rod length is properly set, so there's no need to change it (and it won't solve the braking problem when the ABS is enabled).
Thread Starter
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Junior Member
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Mwag630: You say "All of my brake issues began after replacing the driver side wheel bearing and hub assembly". The front wheel bearings have a magnet on one side, which is supposed to face the speed sensor. If the bearing is installed backwards, a common mistake, the magnet is too far from the speed sensor to generate a signal, and the ABS "thinks" that wheel is locked, as if sliding on ice, while the other 3 wheels are turning on dry pavement, causing the ABS system to activate and the problems you're experiencing.
To confirm, spin both front wheels by hand with a DC voltmeter connected to the speed sensors. There a plenty of YouTube videos how to do this. Your mechanic may have installed one or both front wheel bearings backwards.
If 1 or 2 front wheel bearings are installed backwards, and those wheel speed sensors can't get a reading, then the ABS module is not the problem, which is why replacing the ABS module didn't solve the problem.
The speedometer calculates the car's speed by averaging the speed of the 4 tires. IIRC, if one speed sensor stops working, the speedometer still works, but if 2 or 3 speed sensors stop working, the speedometer won't work. Thermo has some insightful posts on this topic, so try an advance search for his posts on "speedometer". This is good to know, because your malfunctioning speedometer is a clue how many wheel speed sensors are malfunctioning.
If the brakes work properly when you have intentionally disabled the ABS, then the brake booster rod length is properly set, so there's no need to change it (and it won't solve the braking problem when the ABS is enabled).
To confirm, spin both front wheels by hand with a DC voltmeter connected to the speed sensors. There a plenty of YouTube videos how to do this. Your mechanic may have installed one or both front wheel bearings backwards.
If 1 or 2 front wheel bearings are installed backwards, and those wheel speed sensors can't get a reading, then the ABS module is not the problem, which is why replacing the ABS module didn't solve the problem.
The speedometer calculates the car's speed by averaging the speed of the 4 tires. IIRC, if one speed sensor stops working, the speedometer still works, but if 2 or 3 speed sensors stop working, the speedometer won't work. Thermo has some insightful posts on this topic, so try an advance search for his posts on "speedometer". This is good to know, because your malfunctioning speedometer is a clue how many wheel speed sensors are malfunctioning.
If the brakes work properly when you have intentionally disabled the ABS, then the brake booster rod length is properly set, so there's no need to change it (and it won't solve the braking problem when the ABS is enabled).
Last edited by Mwag630; Aug 11, 2018 at 03:16 AM.
