I pressure washed my engine bay, yes I know bad Idea skip the lesson on where I shouldnt have done that, anyways, cant go over 3000 RPms. I took the sparkplugs out and noticed water in the chamber. I fixed that but sucking it out and using the air compressor to get the rest out. drive it about 50 miles still misfiring on all. misfiring on 1, 3 and 5. I did a compression test and 1, 3 and 5 are all right at 150 PSI so that's out of question. That leaves spark and Gas. I replaced the spark plugs and coils and all 3 are still misfiring. I took one plug out and grounded the spark plug and it was working fine. so I've taken out the spark as a problem. Last is fuel. I constantly smell fuel when driving I guess not getting burned. I have access to a very good OBD scanner and tried monitoring how the fuel system was running but I just kept getting a "N/A" and it kept saying my engine was running at about 7000 RPMs when it wasnt even at 1000Rpms. I have no idea where to go with this. I dont want to keep wasting money on parts and I need my car. I dont want to take it to jaguar well because they want to charge and arm and a leg to just to look at it.

 

camron, from the sounds of things, your camshaft sensor is fubared (based on the high RPM reading, are you sure that it is not saying 700 RPM?) Having a high RPM reading would cause the fuel injectors to add fuel at the wrong times and lead to a rich condition (and the gas smell). This would also throw off the timing for the spark, leading to less than desirable cylinder combustion. This sensor is down at the lower pulley on the front side of the engine. If you jack up the car and go in behind the right front wheel, the sensor is there, just behind the serpentine belt.

 

It's funny because I was driving and my serpentine belt broke on me. I replaced the belt on the side of the road but it cut the camshaft sensor wires and the sensor was gone. I spliced the wires and connected then back to the port without using a sensor and the car ran great until I guess now. just cant see how it ran perfect for a week then it starts misfiring.

 

Yes I meant 700 rpms lol

 

and is it the crankshaft sensor or camshaft? what's the difference?

 

camron: When your serpentine belt broke, it damaged the wires to the crankshaft position sensor. If I read your posts correctly, you repaired these wires and the engine ran well for a ~week or more. Later, after you pressure washed the engine, the misfiring began on bank 1 - cylinders 1, 3 & 5. These 2 events seem unrelated, because the crankshaft position sensor affects all 6 cylinders, not just cylinders 1, 3 & 5.

Camshaft position sensors are on the valve covers, aka cam covers, next to the IMT valves on bank 1, and next the oil fill port on bank 2. As Thermo says, a problem with the bank 1 camshaft position sensor could be causing your cylinder 1, 3, & 5 misfires. It could be a bad sensor, damaged wires to the sensor, or residual water / corrosion in the electrical connector. To test if the bank 1 camshaft position sensor is bad, swap the bank 1 and bank 2 sensors. If this causes cylinders 2, 4, & 6 to start misfiring, and cylinders 1, 3, & 5 to resume firing properly, replace the bad camshaft position sensor.

Unburned fuel in the catalytic converter is how they overheat and get damaged, so it's not a good idea to run the engine too long with a lot of misfiring.

Older, simpler engines that do not have variable valve timing (VVT) use the crankshaft position sensor to know when to inject fuel and fire the spark plugs. Engines with VVT, including our petrol X-Types, use camshaft position sensors in addition to the crankshaft position sensor to know when to inject fuel and fire the spark plugs.

 

I will switch the 2 sensorsensors to confirm bank 1 being bad and if that is so, I'll buy it and let you know if fixed.

 

Camron: Oops, my bad. I just realized the valve covers need to be off the engine to remove the camshaft position sensors. So start by check the wires and connector to the bank 1 camshaft sensor. If you can't find an obvious problem there, you may have to remove the bank 1 valve cover, which unfortunately means removing the upper intake manifold to gain access.

 

lol I figured it out when I went outside. I've done it like 5 times already but I'm just going to buy the part it's like 40 dollars and hope that's the fix. but I'm going to check the wires as you said first. too much work to take off the head and back valve covers 40 dollars isnt that bad.

 

Cameron, there are sensors on both shafts. The difference comes in to how the computer figures out where the engine is in its rotation. In the case of the X-Type with the variable valve timing (VVT), this becomes even more interesting and could explain why you are seeing what you are seeing. The crankshaft sensor (low on the engine) has what is referred to as a "36 minus 1" gear. What you have is a gear with 35 teeth on it and a blank spot where the 36th tooth wold have been. The reason for this is the computer looks at the sensor as it sees the teeth going by as the engine rotates. When it sees the gap in the teeth, it knows the exact position of the engine at that moment in time and then as it counts the teeth from there, it knows where the engine is in 10 degree increments. This allows the computer to know exactly when to trigger the coil and get the timing of the car exactly as it needs to be to get maximum efficiency.

Now, the camshaft sensor plays 2 rolls in this car. There is one on each camshaft. What happens is there is what is referred to as a "tic-tac" on each camshaft gear which is nothing more than a raised piece of metal (kinda looks like the candy called Tic-Tac, hence the name). So, for every rotation of the camshaft, the camshaft sensor will see this tic-tac go around. Due to the gearing of the crankshaft and camshaft, the crankshaft rotates twice as fast as the camshafts do. As for what this sensor does, its primary roll is to help the computer know how much the VVT is engaging the camshaft, altering how much power the engine makes since the valve timing (not to be confused with ignition timing) has changed, allowing the valves to open sooner at higher RPMs The second thing the camshaft sensor does is acts as the backup to the crankshaft sensor should it fail (the camshaft sensor will tell the computer when the motor is at TDC on every other rotation, giving the computer a general idea of when to do the timing).

As for your problem, I can see where your problem most likely lies. You are looking at either a bad wiring repair job and the rotation of the one camshaft is not being seen (which should give you an error code for the camshaft sensor) or when the belt came off, it damaged the camshaft sensor and cracked the sensor, So, when you pressure washed the engine, this forced some water into the sensor and it is now grounding that sensor out, killing the signal (which I would think would again throw a code). either way, in short, the timing of the valves is leading to the fuel not being introduced into the engine at the correct time and leading to a rich condition that you are seeing. Fix that one camshaft sensor issue and you should be good.

 

Only codes its throwing is p0300, p0301, p0303, p0305, p1314, p1316 and p1000. the crankshaft sensor broke and the wires were put back on but without the actual sensor and ran fine for a week. I feel like it's something with fuel injectors, fuel rail or fuel pressure any other ideas.

 

Misfires on one bank only can be caused by a choked or failed catalyst on that bank, seen it many times now.

 

I gutted out the catalyst because I thought that was the issue. It has something to do with me pressure washing the engine bay because everything was fine until I did that.

 

That didnt fix it. I've got a p1316 code and it leads me to believe it's a fuel issue, either bad injectors, clogged, low fuel pressure on something with the fuel rail I just smell tons of gas.

 

You just gotta love the "I pressure washed my engine bay", skip the lesson but now it's fraked up......

YOU SHOULD NEVER PRESSURE WASH ANY CAR'S ENGINE BAY. I don't care how many cars/times you got away with it, particularly on old cars with little electronics. It's just plain dumb.

Read my procedure here with NEVER a problem =

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...leaning-78380/

 

Btw, p1316 code for Jaguar X Type is excessive misfire code (i.e. Cat damage can occur).

Possible causes

• Cylinder compression low
• Electrical short/wiring
• Low fuel pressure
• Clogged fuel injectors
• Faulty / worn out spark plugs
• Faulty ignition coil
• Faulty fuel injectors
• Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)

Harness is open or shorted It means that the wire(s) connected from and to the component (sensor, solenoids, actuator, etc.) is either open (cut, broken, disconnected) or shorted (touching other wires, components, body). "Open" and "short" are common electrical terms. An open is a break in a wire or at a connection. A short is an accidental connection of the wire to ground or another wire. In simple electronics, this usually means something won't work at all. With complex electronics (such as ECMs or PCMs) this can sometimes mean something works, but not the way it's supposed to.

 

My wife went through a huge puddle one night and we got similar issues. Water was in the wells the sparkplugs are in (not fun to get to see threads on replacing the plugs). Had to blow the well out and let it dry. This could definitely happen with a pressure wash