ABS sometimes starts to kick in at low speeds. No codes being thrown, brakes are otherwise good; concentricity and run-out OK, hardware doesn't bind anywhere, parking brake works properly. MC tests good.

I'm wondering if anyone has any ideas?

I'm about to replace the lines with a set of Goodridge hoses, and have the system flushed completely, but if the system is going to be cleaned out anyway, is there something else I should have checked?

I replaced to electronic side of the ABS unit about a year and a half ago; I suspect there could be an issue there, but again, no codes.

My mechanic's idea is probably the best, hook up the reader and get the real-time data...but still looking for what I may find...

 

Check tyres are the same sizes (really!), inflation and are also in proper condition. (You probably have, just making sure.)

 

Wheel sensors could have crud on them blocking signal or the part on the hub that looks like a gear the sensor looks at, could be crudded over too..which one?..that's going to be the challenge...Check for loose connections too on these sensors.

 

Lived this dream.

Check the connections on the front sensors. Sometimes they come loose, even the carwash undrspray can do it.

My problem wasn't such an easy fix. The rings on the rear CV joints that line up with the sensors rotted off. Pretty common in the rust belt. Couple of ways to fix it.

To clear matters, at 1st mine would stop fine. Then releasing the brake and reapplying at slow speed (stop sign) Id get the ABS in the brake pedal. As time went on (year) I got codes, ABS codes, lost cruise, lost speedo.

Dave

 

The reluctor (tone) rings on my rear axles look fine, but we found that they are both split. Mine haven't broken completely yet, but the computer sees the ever-so-slight difference between the solid ring and the cracked one, and decides that the one wheel is not moving as fast...and activates the ABS.

Time difference? As little as 50 microseconds generates an error!!!

Now to decide...fix the rings, or, since I can get new full outer CV joints for $80 each, is it worth the labor to fix them, or just replace them, since I'll be in that far anyway?

 

I know you can just buy the rings but there's the issue of holding them on and keeping them there. The outer CV is doable but I'd imagine splitting them would be tough. I actually replaced both axle shafts as it was easier for me. Detroit Axle had the best deal on the entire rebuilt shafts as they seem to be priced all over the place.

One thing to mention is that the nuts for the upper, lower, and shocks are welded to the sub-assembly. Grabbing the nut with a breaker-bar will only lead to heartache and swearing. Trust me...

Once you get in there, replacing the control arms and shocks is easy if you need to. Oh, and penetrating oil... Early and often!!

 

Actually, to replace the rings, you have to get down to the outer CV, anyway. If you get the right size, you remove the old one and clean the mounting surface, heat the new ring and slip it into place, when it cools, it contracts and you're good to go.


Best price I've found on rear axles is about $220 for the pair (yep, DLs); outers are $160 delivered. Have to look at the labor and see if the full axle might be faster to install... If the car has to come that far apart, it doesn't make sense to just replace the rings, hell, it is a 14-year old car!

 

That's what I would do...keep it simple, plus you are new all around.

 

That is what I'm thinking, probably do the bushings while its up in the air, too. I'm also replacing the brakelines with the goodridge lines, might as well get everything at one shot.

 

The good news/bad news about the project is that while you're in there, everything else is right in front of you and easy to do.

I did the lower control arms because they were pretty sloppy. Then I did the uppers with the Volvo replacements which allow adjustments while the OEMs dont. Sure, why not shocks too? Also one hub/bearing assembly because it was a little gritty. If you need to do the wheel bearing, buy the assembly with the hub. I can't imagine splitting that. Everything was readily available through Ebay and the web and the closest I had to get to OEM parts was replacing the Bilstein shocks.

The rings (both sides) had started to lift a bit and were in contact with the sensors. When I assembled it all I reattached the old speed sensors even though they look like they'd been ground down a little. They still worked and have no codes, etc. Should I find issues with them, replacing them will be easy as you can access them w/o taking everything apart.

Dave