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Thank you for jumping in. It seems pretty straight forward when you jump in there with a nibbler to take the pump and control unit out of the top of the tank. Have you ever seen a video of someone doing a top down removal of the evap system, as It didn't seem serviceable from that hole? Do you think the evap system is to far over to the side to cut it out of the top?
Well, if there is something I do not know, I don't pretend that I do... - ...and I don't fully understand the evap system.
You asked of how to access the fuel tank from above, hence I'd sent you the videos above.
My understanding (but I am not sure) is that everything that connects to the fuel tank connects via that pump and the fuel lines to it.
The videos show how to access the pump from above. Cutting a bigger hole is required, as the engineers apparently messed up there during the design phase.
Alternatively, with significantly more trouble, it would also be possible to remove the whole tank from underneath.
As for the evap system: I do not have a full understanding of how that works other than that certain fuel lines are part of that system.
AI's take on that is:
>>>> An EVAP system leak occurs when fuel vapors escape from the system instead of being captured and recycled. This can happen due to various reasons, such as a loose or damaged gas cap, cracked hoses, or a faulty valve. Even a small leak can trigger the check engine light and lead to increased emissions.
Diagnosing an EVAP system leak often involves using a smoke test, where smoke is pumped into the system to identify where it escapes. Repairing the issue typically involves replacing the faulty component, such as a damaged hose, valve, or the charcoal canister.
>>>>
Floor on mine had been butchered. I'm a bit OCD, so I removed everything (not too hard) and had the floor repaired with factory parts.
Removing the interior is required before welding in the new floor.
Removing gas tank if required for EVAP repair isn't difficult, Prop-shaft, exhaust, gas tank. I think the rear subframe had to drop a bit. Very doable at home.
The fuel pump ring was badly damaged due to PO using a chisel or something. New rings, new pumps and a borrowed ring tool and it looks like new!
Cracked - nasty
Easy to install with good access and proper tool.
Just putting this out there to show there is an alternative to cutting big holes in the car!
Having done something similar at the junkyard, I can say it is less effort to drop the tank than to attack the car with a saws-all. I spent 3 days cutting things out and in the end dropped the rear subframe to gain access to the evap valve and carbon cannister. Much easier to drop the rear subframe, as you really don't have access from the top.
If you need to get to the carbon canister, you would need to go through the trunk floor, not under the rear seat. Cutting the floor will also compromise the seat belt anchor points