thanks. This bugger actually extends into the spark plug tube. In other words it does not just sit on the top of the valve cover and slip up into the boot on the coil. The entire gasket/o ring has a lip that extends into the spark plug tube about 3/8 to 1/2 inch. And it looks like the entire thing is fused onto the valve cover and will not be easy to remove. I have done a lot of research on this and this is not the only example of these spark plug tube gaskets being integrated into the valve cover. Others who have had this issue and tried to remove the gaskets have ended up damaging the cover and having to replace them anyway. Curious to see what you friend says, especially if they have any experience in removing the remains of the old gasket/o ring.

 

tarheel, he didn't send me the part number (asking for it now). But, looking on the Autozone website, they sell the grommet/seal that you are looking for. Ask the counter people for the Spectre part that is part number 5333. They are 3.99 each.

As for removing it,I would say it would be best to try and do off of the vehicle. That way you can get at it from more angles, but this is also involving a little more work (having to remove the valve cover) and cost (new gasket set). But, if you have issues with oil in the plug wells (not sure if you do or don't), it may be a needed thing anyways. As for removing the old pieces, I would say to start with a small flat blade screw driver and see if you can separate the rubber from the valve cover cleanly. if that is not working well, then I would try applying a little bit of WD-40 or other penetrant to see if you can loosen the grip the rubber has on the metal. The big thing is once the rubber starts breaking free, do not scrape the screw driver along the edge, gouging the valve cover. Worst case, get yourself say a 1/2" square wood stick and use that to scrape at the gasket.

As a last resort, I would say to get yourself some paint thinner or paint stripper and apply that to the rubber. That should cause the rubber to turn to a goo. You can then brush on some, rub off the softened rubber, apply more, rub off the new goo. It won't be fast, but it will ensure you don't damage the valve covers.

 

This is definitely not what I need. As you can see from the manufacturers website this is not an open tube but closed with a small baffle in it.

https://www.spectreperformance.com/5...cover-grommets

I believe that this grommet is used for the breather hose that attaches to the valve cover. There is a thread on the forum concerning this part and the breaking of the connector. At least this is the best I can ascertain. Even if I were to adapt this part in some way to make it work I am not sure the size would fit the opening of the spark plug tube. Best I can determine the inside diameter is 23 MM and the overall diameter of the o ring/grommet/whatever is 31 MM. One of these grommets does have a 1 inch inside diameter opening, but that might be a little too big for the tube. The other grommet in the set has a 3/4 inch opening and that is too small.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...eather-105858/

Here is another example of a set of these grommets carried by Autozone, but this one does not have the baffle. However, the size would not work as one is too large and one is too small.

https://www.proformparts.com/product...1-22-inch-hole

No way around it, there is no off the shelf part designed to replace these gaskets/o rings. Doesn't mean you might not locate something that you can adapt and substitute but I have not found it yet. Right now I am leaning toward not doing anything and simply changing the plugs and putting the coils back in place. I see no oil or any other liquid in the plug tube. I am also considering laying a bead of 3M High Temp Black Silicon Gasket along the top of what's left of the o ring and then putting the coil on. I don't see how this could hurt anything and this 3M product is actually recommended by several auto makers as suitable for use on their engines (Subaru is one). Is it possible that these o rings had deteriorated and were allowing air to be drawn into the tube and affecting the combustion, causing the car to throw the lean codes and allowing fuel into the exhaust?

As always I appreciate your help and suggestions.

 

I have been very interested in this incident and your work towards overcoming it. When I bought my 2007 model (2 years ago) my first job involved replacing spark plugs and coils, as I cleaned the engine with a water hose, getting water into the rear plug holes, and 'cooking' the coils when I started the engine. Frightened the hell out of me! During the process I saw that they valve cover seals had exactly the same damage as you have highlighted. I needed to get the car on the road, as I was heading off overseas very shortly, and didn't have time to go into a big fixit programme, so didn't even try to get the seals out or off the cover. In fact, I didn't even know what they were made from - looked like possibly a soft metal.. I took a gamble and did exactly as you are intending, using the very same sealant. I have done just over 21,000 kilometres of driving since then, been very wary of letting any spray from a hose get onto the engine, and have had no problems at all with the engine.
I hope I haven't jinxed myself by mentioning it and I hope it works for you too.

 

tarheel, talking with the other member from here, he is saying that this kit (part number: VS50674, by Mahle) is a complete valve cover kit (does both left and right sides, can add an L or R on to the end of the part number if you only need one side). The picture doesn't show the gaskets that you are after, but if you read the details, it talks about them. Hope this helps.

 

Well that is good to know, thanks for posting. Makes me feel better if I go that route. Stay safe over there and let me know you have any issues with this fix in the future.

 

I would not be confident in that unless the other member actually ordered this kit and it contained some sort of part to replace the seals that are clearly listed as non replaceable by Jaguar. This is the same kit I pictured in my post above from April 2. I referenced comments in another forum post that referred to two spark plug seals, one for each side. In my picture I marked what they referred to as the spark plug seal. For reference here is an ebay listing where they specifically refer to this part as a spark plug tube seal:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Inner-Jag...-/370906567566

Also if you read the product description you will see this: Valve cover gasket set contains all the gaskets required - may also contain spark plug tube seals and grommets if necessary. Some listing show this as being applicable to the S Type and they do use replaceable spark plug tube seals similar to what I have. Also some listings reference the large rectangular gasket the I pointed out as a spark plug tube seal. There is no part in the picture that would appear to be what I am looking for. Unless I hear from someone who has actually ordered this kit and it contained the actual part that I need then I would not want to get it.

 

So I replaced the gaskets on the intake manifold and everything looked fine. I can't find any evidence of an oil leak so far in the engine bay, only the oil pan gasket. I also pulled the 3 coils on the back bank and two of the spark plug gaskets look fine. The one closest to the fender is only slightly damaged. They are not anywhere near as bad as the three in the front bank. I also found a little bit of water in the spark plug tube closest to the fender. The others are all dry and oil free.

 

Car runs fine. EML still on but no longer flashing. Got to have codes read again.

 

Got the codes read and they are identical to what they were before with one exception. The P1313 code is only listed once this time. Car runs fine, no rough idle or stutter, no blinking EML indicating damage to the catalytic converter at any time. I am assuming these are new codes and just not reading what was there before and EML has not reset? I have started the car and let it run or driven it around about 7 times now, but only a couple of those were a cold start, if that makes any difference.

P0174 System Too Lean (Bank 2)
P0171 System Too Lean (Bank 1)
P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
P1313 Misfire Rate Catalyst Damage Fault - Bank 1
P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
P1316 Misfire Rate Exceeds Emissions
P1111 System Pass

The suggestion at the top of the code sheet says replace the intake manifold runner control IMRC valve vacuum hose. So far I am having trouble locating any part with this name. I did find a reference to an IMRC on a Ford Escort, but nothing else. Does this have anything to do with the Intake Manifold Control Valve? Or the IMCV seal? Are there any hoses associated with this? I cleaned the MAF Sensor but is it possible I might need a new one?

Thanks everyone for your ideas on this.

 

It's warm ups that count. The Jag docs (which follow the law) usually show 2 need to occur to flag codes. (free downloads, btw)

I've lost whether this car has IMT valves & if so have the O-rings been changed.

Also, you may just need a coil - maybe swap one for #1 and see if the fault moves.

Do the fuel trims (LTFTs) check out OK? Plenty of threads what to do & how.

 

Tarheel, from what the latest codes show, you have potentially 2 issues (possibly only 1). The known one is a vacuum leak. Check the big 3, but I would also say to use some starting fluid or cigar smoke to detemine where the leak is coming from. If I had to take a guess as to where the leak is, I am thinking it is the connection for the brake booster on top of the intake or the PCV line (have the ribbed hose by chance or is it smooth, if smooth, 99% chance that is your problem). As for the misfire on cylinder 1, I would first see if you can get rid of the vacuum leak. That may solve the misfire. But, if it continues, I would swap coils between cylinders 1 and 2. If the problem moves to cylinder 2, then you know it is a bad coil and that is an easy one to swap. If the problem continues, then you know you have either a bad spark plug, something getting in the well, or a wiring issue. You can prove a wiring issue by looking at the wiring as you are swapping the coils. Easiest way to do that is to roll the wiring over a small diameter rod (say a 1/8" rod). If you see the wiring make a sharp bend, then you have a broken wire. If it bends nicely over the rods, odds are the wiring is fine. Pulling the plug would be a good check to do at the time of swapping plugs and using a wire brush to clean up the tip would be a good preventative thing to do.