Wondering if anyone knows how to replace it? Tried removing the rear shock with an impact- no joy. Will saturate with a penetrant & try tomorrow.
Even if I remove the shock, still won't be able to pull the tube out, but will be able to get my hand in there.

Even though I removed the 3 nuts securing the tube, the tube is in-between parts of the undercarriage.

Got the last fuel filler pipe to tank hose from SNG Barrett. Told me it was the last one in the UK.

Part number is P_C2S33826 Price is $50.58.

It's a short piece of 1.25" fuel-rated hose. Advance Auto has a Gates hose, however they say it's has metal threads- not nylon. So it's impossible to
bend. Will provide a part number tomorrow.

 

https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/20...ller_neck.html

As for replacing it, go to the main page and download the workshop manual for help.

 

In the immortal words of Lawrence Welk, "Tank you, tank you, tank you."

 

Will JTIS run on a MacBook?

 

https://www.autorepairmanuals.ws/arm...-manual.48922/

 

My 07 won't accept gas unless u stand there for 5 minutes clicking the gas handle because it only accepts the 1st half tank. Plus I just haven't been able to get it running right! Code P0420 I've got allot of money wrapped up in this Jag and basically get done with one problem and one more or 5 pop up! I wanna hit the gas and have it respond! I did 02 sensors upstream down. Did Coil packs. Yes one was bad. Replaced it! Well all of em with expensive nice ones. Could it be the plugs we didn't gapped right? Bought a Jaguar Fix it Edmunds manual even. Any help would be great. It sucks gas so fast. It runs rough. Still drives but just no Getty up.! Is it a kinked hose or breather? Fuel pressure regulator? I don't wanna do the Cat unless it's a must ! I have OBD2 reader. Thanks I too

 

Need more than simple code reader to troubleshoot. Used an ELM327 for years. Now use a BlueDriver as it allows me to look at the fuel trims & many other live data parameters the more expensive analyzers do- like reading more than powertrain codes & saves data. Works almost as good as the TopDon Phoenix for a fraction of the price.

Suggest getting familiar with using a live data tool like the BlueDriver if you want to save money & not simply start replacing parts- that can get very expen$ive.

Fuel pressure on the X-Type can be read on many readers with a live data mode.

If you have an oscilloscope, you can look at the signal going to the fuel pump regulator. Has a varying duty cycle as I recall coming from the ECU. The regulator is more a buffer/driver in between the fuel pump & the ECU. As I recall there is no return fuel line like in many cars. Just recall when I started having problems after replacing the pump- the last thing I considered was one of the lines popping off inside the tank- my bad. This is how I be came intimate with the regulator.

Good thing I made 8" diameter ports under the rear seat as there was no way I was ever gonna drop the tank again. The S-Type was made with 2 8" ports for accessing either side of the fuel tank.

Doubt it's your plugs. Expect you'd be seeing P0300-series codes (misfires). But then I don't know everything,

The problem when filling up is often related to the evap purge valve in Toyota Highlanders. Not sure how it works with the X-Type.

 

A cheap borescope might give you a look into the innter workings of your bank 1 cat through the HO2 sensor holes.
You might find the ceramic honeycomb has begun to break down and causing flow restrictions in one of you cats and throwing the 420 code and mucking up your fuel mixture on bank 1.

 

After removing the the rear shock & removing the 3 nuts securing the filler tube, was able to install the short fuel hose.

What made it easier was spraying the inside of the hose with silicone. Permitted twisting the hose down on the fuel tank opening.

 

Apologies Backhertz, my post went to the wrong thread.
That's a first time for me