Hey everyone, my intro thread is posted, and now I have a few questions.

I recently purchased my first Jaguar, a 2004 X-Type 2.5 Manual.

I knew I had some work to do on it, but I was able to talk his price down because of it. You just don't see these cars where I live, so I had to jump on this one when I found it. I have always liked them, so when I found one locally with a manual, I didn't hesitate to check it out.

Transfer case sounds good, no sounds coming from it that I can hear. It needs rear suspension work first, so I can get it aligned.

My first priority though is the keys. Both key fobs are worn out and barely work even with new batteries. The lock buttons are broken inside, and the circuit board is corroded. I am looking for new ones, now.

The worst part is, I can lock the car with the key by turning it clock wise. However, the car will not unlock by turning the key counter clockwise.

Fortunately, the key fob unlock button still works, so I don't get locked out, but it is a precarious situation. What would I do if my fob quit working completely?

Anyway, that is where I will leave it for now, thank you!

 

I thought I couldn't manually lock/unlock my X-Type when I first bought it. That lock is stiff, and you have to put more muscle into it than you think.

 

It locks just fine, but when I go to unlock, the key turns freely counter clockwise, with no resistance. It feels as if it is not engaging anything.

 

Get thee to eBay and get a pair of rebuild kits for your current fobs, and a pair (or three) of the uncut keys.


Move the 'guts' of your current fobs into the new housings (don't throw the piece of pink foam away, it is supposed to be there, between the keypad and the board!)


Take your cut keys and uncut keys to a locksmith (actually, Lowes and Home Depot can cut the blanks if you buy them there), but have them measure the cuts and cut a fresh combo, rather than simply 'copying' the old, worn key.


The new key may fix the door issue; if not, the locksmith can repair or replace the door cylinder with the current key combination.


The actual key system is a Ford (Lincoln) design, so don't let the word 'Jaguar' get the price jacked on you!

 

or.

 

I bought used OEM keys off e-bay and just used the keyless entry part of the new ones with my old ignition key.

Door panel will have to come off to fix the linkage that's preventing it from working in both directions.

 

I cursed myself. Standing outside the flower shop locked out of my car. Just what I needed after a long day at work...

 

Well, after 20 minutes of neither fob working, one just decided to work again, thank goodness! Its not fun being locked out an hour from home.

I am tearing my door apart tonight, I need to at least fix the manual locking for tomorrow.

 

OK. After fiddling with the linkage for the manual lock/unlock, I have got it to where it unlocks 25% of the time, maybe, and only if I crank on it like I am going to twist the key off inside.

It is barely moving the linkage when I turn it to unlock. Has anyone dealt with this before?

I was unable to get the latch completely off. I could not figure out how to get the latch rod disconnected from the handle. The rod is keeping me from pulling the handle and key tumbler assembly from the door.

I ran out of light, and couldn't use the garage, as it is full of building supplies for our bathroom. I will get back to it early tomorrow, if anyone has any ideas.

Thanks, Josh

 

The Parts Catalogue diagram makes it easier to see the layout of the door latch, linkage rods and retaining clips:


(click on the image to enlarge it)

Here is the JTIS section on actuator removal:

JTIS - X Type Front Door Lock Actuator.pdf

Graham

 

Thank you for the schematic! Would have made last night a lot easier! I took it out last night in the driveway in front of the garage using flashlight power.

From what I can tell, the actuator function perfectly. If I manually operate the bar from the actuator to the key tumbler, it locks and unlocks just fine. When I lock with the key, the rod moves down about an inch and activates the actuator. When I unlock with the key, the rod barely moves a 1/4", if that. It just turns freely with no resistance, and the rod barely moves.

To test, I bent the rod a little bit more, effectively shortening it. Now, if I turn the key counterclockwise very quickly, it has enough momentum to move the bar JUST enough to activate the lever on the lock actuator 50% of the time. Now, at least I can unlock the car, but it is still not reliable, and it is not right.

OK, that was kind of long winded, but from what I can tell, the actuator is fine, it is something with the key tumbler.

 

Now I don't know the condition of your keys but I know my Unlock button didn't work when i bought the car and I opened up the key and blew it out with an air gun and lightly rubbed all the connections with rubbing alcohol and now the unlock works 100% of the time. So much nicer then putting the key in the door every time! Worth giving it a try anyway I'd say.

 

I don't have a picture, but mine are beyond repair, I think. There is a lot of corosion, and the lock buttons are actually separated from the board. I will be replacing both of them. Yes, it will be better than the key, I agree! I need to get the key operating reliable in case my fobs ever quit some time, I don't want to be locked out again!

 

Well, my new fobs showed up (with uncut keys, too) and it is wonderful stepping out of the stone age where I had to insert a key into a door to lock and unlock.

The new fob synced up perfectly the first try, and works wonderfully!

Will a regular locksmith be able to cut my new key? what is the best way of having them duplicated?

 

There is a Jag dealer in Minneapolis, Minnesota that can cut the keys, and a locksmith in Billings, Montana that can do so, also.

My searches for anyone else that can do so in or near this fine State of the Union garnered no results.

The locksmith in Billings says he will cut and program ONLY a genuine (not "after-market") Jaguar key, and he shared a horror story about having to buy a new computer (and other) for a car owner with an after-market key once.

 

There is no magic to cutting the blade; any locksmith or shop with the adapter can cut a Tibbe key. The Jag takes a different blade (8-cut) versus the Ford (6-cut), but the same adapter is used. It is a bit of a pain because there are two sides and a bunch of angles to be cut, so they'll cost a lot more to get cut than a regular key, but check the local big-box hardware stores first, many have the adapters.

If you have a blade that is simply worn, the capsule can be pulled and moved, or cloned.

The remote is also nothing unusual. You can get new housings, replacement switches (soldering required).

The 'guts' are identical to several other different marques; there really aren't a lot of companies that make the transmitters and receivers.

The 'two keys to program' thing is a security feature, so some cretin valet can't clone your key...but the code is in the key (a small RFID capsule) or the remote (a burned-in digital sequence)...they KEY isn't matched to the car...the car's computer is opened up (eeprom, for you tech types), and the key and remote codes are memorized by the car's computer. You can keep adding keys and fobs once its opened up until it runs out of memory, usually 5 or 6 sets...just that they all have to be added one after another while the chip is open for writing.

The transmitters and receivers in our case are made by Alps Electronics.

 

duplicate, please delete