Hey Guys,

Been trying to troubleshoot this problem for a while. 3/4 of my speed sensors are broken (C1145, C1165, C1175), my Speedometer stopped working completely, and my handbrake light comes on after driving for about a minute.

Also, I cannot Accelerate over 3,000 rpms (car will jerk violently). I also have two codes P0171, P0174 (vacuum leak?), not sure if this is related to this problem.

My Odometer still is working.
My braking is perfect (other than not having abs).

My first step was to change out the faulty front speed sensor. A new sensor did not clear the code, so i ordered the connecting wiring harness (p/n: C2S26194) for it online and am currently waiting to it to be delivered.

Will update after replacing.

 

Mo, what you are describing is almost all from the wheel speed sensors not working. Because both back wheels are not working, I would be checking the reluctance rings inside the hole to see if the rings are still intact. Once you get down to a single (or no) wheel speed sensors being bad, the speedo will return on its own.

As for the vacuum leak. I would start with checking the big three problems (PCV hose, brake booster hose, IMT valves). If that isn't your problem, then I would look at the boot at the inlet to the throttlebody. Finally I would give the MAF a good cleaning. if that doesn't get you fixed, then let me know and we can take things from there.

 

Yesterday I fastened a reluctance ring on my L rear CV joint using marine epoxy (I've heard this is a semi-permanent fix?). There was a considerable amount of rust that had formed, so the ring did not fit and I had to cut it in order to fasten it on. After the repair, my speedometer worked up to 10 mph, then stopped working again. Also my C1165 code disappeared!! BUT then it returned after driving around for a while.

Next Step: I bought another reluctance ring for the opposite side (I'll try again I guess?). I also bought a new outer CV joint. Both parts are from J&R CV joints. Also, I am still waiting for the cable harness to be delivered for the front R speed sensor.

Also, I cleaned out my MAF with throttle body cleaner. Codes P0171 and P0174 returned after a few miles of driving. I also tested it by unplugging it and my car stalled immediately. I also tried to spray carb cleaner over different parts in the engine to locate a vaccum leak, but no success.

Since I bought my car I have replaced the PCV hose, IMT O-rings, and the upper and lower intake gaskets (All of them have had leaks! hahaha).

Next Step: I bought the brake booster hose from amazon.

Side Note: I removed the rear caliper and brake rotor to get at the outer CV joint. When reassembling I did not properly line up the "notches" on the caliper piston with the metal outcropping on the brake pads. 10 minutes into my test drive a terrible squealing noise started and my L rear brakes were extremly hot. After reassembling the brakes it's back to normal.

 

Mo, it could be the line on the back side of the intake is not seated well enough and that is causing your leakage or you may have simply pinched an o-ring and that is giving you a bunch of grief. This is where just sticking with it is going to be your best bet. Here is another idea that you may want to try. If you smoke a cigar (or have a friend that does), blow the smoke gently over the top of the engine and watch the smoke move about. What you are going to look for is the smoke to be lazily moving along and then suddenly move towards the engine. Where it makes that sudden change is where your vacuum leak is. Just do this with the A/C off and the motor fairly cold so the fans don't kick on.

Option 2 is to get yourself a 4 foot piece of tubing. You can hold one end near your ear (DO NOT!!!! press it tightly against your ear as to form a seal to your ear/ear drum). Then you can run the other end near all the joints of the intake. You will hear a sucking sound where your vacuum leak is.

 

Mo: Just spit balling on this one...... By chance, did you replace the PCV valve when replacing the PCV hose?. A faulty PCV valve can stay open longer than it should, allowing too much crankcase air into the intake manifold. This can elude the usual vacuum leak tests (carb cleaner, propane, cigar smoke) because the PCV valve is designed to "leak" air into the intake manifold, just not too much.

 

UPDATE:

Thermo and DW, thanks for the help! I replaced my PCV valve (it did seem like it needed to be replaced) and I tried the cigar test (but wasn't able to pinpoint the location....enjoyed it though!).

I took the car to my mechanic, and he was able to smoke test it and found the leak was from the lower intake manifold (which was cracked?). He was able to get a used one from a junkyard for $250.

He also was able to secure the rear reluctance rings on the CV joint (from J&R CV joints- via Ebay). And he sprayed them something that prevented rust.

In the front right CV sensor seemed to be thrown off because I recently had a wheel bearing replaced and it was put on backwards. (the bearings have a magnetic side on them that works with the speed sensor).

It also seemed as though my ABS control module stopped working properly, so it was also replaced with a junkyard car part.

2 days later... my first inspection sticker in almost a year!

 

Hi all!
My problem is just the speedometer dial on the dashboard has been failing to function from time to time.
Each time this happened, all I needed to do to get it working was park, cut the ignition and restart the engine..problem solved.

This time however, no amount of restarting the engine will remedy the speedo dial constantly stuck at 0 mph.
I tested the dial using the 'secret menu' diagnostic tool on the end if the indicator stem and all the dials work okay.
So my question is..
Could some kind person please advise me if therefore this problem necessitates a speed sensor replacement and if so where is the speedometer dial speed sensor situated?

With some other makes of cars it is situated under the hood on the transmission but I have seen confusing accounts about there being several of these sensors sttached to every wheel and linked to 'APS' units etc.

Please, please could someone tell me if there is just 'one' speedometer dial sensor somewhere accessible and let me please know where it is so that I can replace it???
Thank you so much. ☹

 

Hanna, there is no speedo gear like the old cars have. The X-Type figures out the speed of the car by looking at the 4 wheels and looking at the speed sensors there (used for the ABS system) and then averaging the 4 sensors to then drive the speedo. From what you are saying, I am betting that the Check engine light is on. If you get the codes read, I am venturing to guess that you are going to get 2 of the following codes: C1145, C1155, C1165, and/or C1175. These are the 4 wheels speed sensors.

Now, if your check engine light is not on, but you are having this issue, then your problem is not a gear, but it is the solder joints where the ribbon cable attaches to the instrument cluster. One of the joints there is cracked and it is causing the speed to loose power. You would need to remove the instrument cluster and then do a very detailed inspection of the solder joints where the connector attaches to the instrument cluster. What you will probably see is a very thin black line running in a circle on the solder joint. That is the crack and that is what is killing the speedo.