Howdy folks,
I need to put a service Kit through the rear Brake Callipers on mine..... (sticking Handbrake Lever)

Does anyone have an exploded view or diagram(s) - showing all the Calliper components (external and internal) particularly of the handbrake mechanism.

All help most appreciated....

 

I had a leak in the rear brake caliper (also a misaligned pin or something that caused handbrake not to completely open or something, the leak was detected while fixing that), and was told that it's a better idea to get either a new caliper or a refurbished one than the service kit. IIRC it had something to do with there being two things in those calipers that can break with age, and only one of those is fixable with the service kit so a refurbished one is a "better investment"...

 

LCGI, the rear calipers are not that complicated. Once you tear one apart, you will find that you will have 10 parts or so. How they go back together is pretty obvious. I would not worry about a diagram. Worst case, get yourself a work bench and lay the parts out how you pull them off.

 

lcgi,
Thermo seems to have forgotten his thread https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x-type-14/e-brake-lever-sticking-fix-1-a-73065/.
It should give a lot of help in your repair.

 

Thanks to everyone..... who responded.

I've been watching quite a few YouTube videos - which show the basics
of Rear Disc Brake Calliper rebuilds. However, none seem to cover the attached Handbrake components. (or how that actually operates internally)

I did not want to start the job without being certain I first had all the required parts and any special tools to hand.... oh-hum.

Cheers,

 

LCGI, the e-brake mechanism is a "non-repairable" item. So, no need to have parts for it. It either works or it doesn't. What causes the issues with the X-TYpe calipers and why the e-brake lever sticks is the cylinder where the shaft goes from the inside to the outside will corrode and cause excessive drag on the operating shaft. It can become enough that the return spring (on the outside of the caliper) is not enough to overcome the drag. A little bit of cleaning up and that surface will become just like new and you can get things working really well again. So, do not worry.

 

Thanks Chris....
I checked out the info and great photos in your other linked and related post
so I've ordered a 14mm penta socket...... and now feel most assured of a great outcome now.



Thanks again

 

Hi Chris,
Thanks for that..... I'm just about ready to start this work.

One point of interest..... ?
Before you disconnected the brake fluid line (banjo-bolt) from the calliper, did you first clamp-off the flex-hose - to avoid/minimize fluid loss ?
Some argue this practice damage/collapses the rubber hose, whereas others say it has no lasting effects. What is your opinion ??

Thanks in advance....

Larry

 

Larry, i don't pinch off the lines. I feel that you are doing more harm than any good. YOu will still be bleeding the brake lines. So, what difference does it make if you loose half an ounce or 3 ounces. You will still be pushing 8-16 ounces through the line to make sure all the air is out. Just my thought on the situation.

 

Hi Chris,
Of course, what I had overlooked and what does stop the annoying drip at a disconnected Banjo bolt..... is by keeping the brake pedal depressed. This closes off the master cylinder preventing fluid draining away via the open line. I clamped a short length of wood between the steering wheel and the brake pedal to keep the pedal down. Then all you need to do is open a bleed nipple to release line pressure in any of the callipers, then you can disconnect any or all of the banjo bolt(s) ..... Bingo!! no more drips.

I have one remaining difficulty - with the now rebuilt Rear Caliper(s) that damn spring on the handbrake lever is a bugger to refit !!

Is there an easy way to do this? (I've tried all the hard ways)
If you have a tip or recommendation - that would be highly appreciated.

Regards,
Larry E.

 

LCGI, I know you are going to laugh at this, but what you want to do is to screw the piston in as far as it will go. This will give you the ability to move the e-brake lever fairly easy (as it will not be trying to apply the brakes). That will give you the room to apply the cable to the e-brake lever. Then all you have to do is run the e-brake lever up and down about 10 times. That will extend the piston out to where it needs to be and you will feel it get to the proper position as you will feel the e-brake lever be really easy and going all the way up and as the piston start touching the pad, you will feel the lever not be able to go all the way up.

 

Chris,
I can't see how the internal position of the piston has any bearing on the extreme difficulty (read effort) that is require to pull and expand that damn lever return spring.

I've been trying to refit the spring with the calliper 'off the vehicle' which means one hand is holding the calliper and the other the pliers - trying to expand and engage it.

I'm thinking maybe if the calliper was 'on the vehicle' then I would get two hands on the pliers and thus get that extra strength needed to attach the spring? How did you accomplish it?

 

LCGI, sorry, I misread your initial post and was thinking you were talking about the cable, not the spring. Sorry about that.

I know that spring can be a bugger to get back on. The first thing is making sure that the spring is in the correct holes. If they are not, then you will never get the spring back on. Don't ask how I know. I seem to remember putting the spring on with the caliper off and what I have done is used one foot to hold the caliper to the ground and that left my 2 hands free. From there, I used a pair of channel locks to get a good grasp on the spring and then pull it into place.

Granted, trying with it on the car is an option too.

 

Thermo,
As member of RACQ (Royal Automobile Club Queensland) I asked for one of their mobile emergency breakdown mechanics to call in at my place - if one was in the hood and passing by. Keith turned up within 1/2 hour... and armed with a modified coat hanger (sharp hook formed on one end and a piece of dowel through the other) he put the caliper into his bench vice hand with both hands pulled the spring into position - it just seemed to snap into place.
(theres a tip worth remembering - eh)

Thanks again.... have a great weekend

Larry E.

 

Just a quick note in this rear brake thread.

Today, I replaced my rear pads and rotors. The calipers, being 10-11 years old were cantankerous. The LH caliper was extended fully and was leaking brake fluid. I guess I let the pads go a bit too far The RH rear caliper was not quite so far gone.

Anyway, the LH caliper needed counterclockwise rotation of the piston. The RH caliper, clockwise (as you look at the piston from the face) What a battle that was. 2 hours later, it was done.

I installed these: X Type 02 04 F R Drill Slot Brake Rotors Posi Quiet Ceramic Pads | eBay

Posi Quiet Ceramic pads and drilled+slotted rotors. Did the fronts last year, rears today.

The Ceramic pads don't have quite the stopping power of the OEM semi-metallic brakes, but they don't dust the wheels either. They are powerful enough to engage the anti lock brakes on dry pavement. So, they are good enough.

Overall, I am very pleased. I drive hard and the fronts have not warped yet.