Hello all;

I have fixed lots and lots of stuff in my almost dead 95k mile X type in the past weeks, even had sun damaged body parts repainted and also working on renewing leather upholstery. New oem fuel pump, new throttle body, new water pump,new coolant tank. New ABS computer Coolant line seals and I could go on…..everything sourced directly from Jaguar…I have dumped quite a bit on money to bring the car back and I am happy I did…

Unfortunately when I had the entire thing apart to replace the leaking water line gaskets under the manifold, I got as far a removing the fuel injectors….AND no matter how hard I tried, I could NOT GET THE D@mN KNOCK SENSOR OUT…..no matter how many videos I watched or the fact I took 3 days to do it just so I wouldn’t loose patience. No go.

so of course I have the 0333 code that pops up and I clear it. Pops up and I clear it. At this point I am thru with trying to get the original out. I just want to relocate the sensor to the closest location where I won’t damage my engine, but where I also don’t have to take the entire thing apart again.

I have seen the post where people relocated 4 inches to the right by removing a heat shield, but has anyone tried any other location? Clearly I don’t want a wrecked engine in a car I just invested so much on , but I don’t think I got it in me to take it all apart again.

i mean what’s worse, a non functional sensor that I keep resetting the code on indefinitely or a relocated new sensor to the next best spot?

any help greatly appreciated

 

Spike, I am going to offer an alternate solution and while it may not quite fit into your desires, I think it is going to be the quickest fix. What I am proposing is to remove the intake again. But, this time, disconnect the wiring from the knock sensor and using an angle grinder, cur the head off of the knock sensor. If you destroy the knock sensor, who cares. What you are wanting to do is leave enough of a stub to get some vice grips on it. Once the head is off, you should be able to slide the knock sensor off of the engine. From here, you can dunk what is left in penetrant and hopefully get the bolt out. Worst case, you cut the bolt off flush with the body, drill a hole where the old bolt was and then use a tap to put in new threads. From there, you are putting in a new bolt and sensor which should fix your issue. I know it is going to take time to do this and covering up the ports with tape and rags is going to be key as you are going to be throwing small parts of metal everywhere, but this is about the only solution I see.

If you need me to give some helpful hints, let me know. You have taken a lot of time and effort to get the car back, looking like you have 1 more step to take.

 

Thank you for always taking the time to respond in such a well thought out manner. It’s greatly appreciated . I typically don’t like to rig things in this way unless it’s a last resource.

If I remove the intake again, I will have to replace the coils. No two ways about it. The car has 95k miles. And I have to replace them with original parts. I don’t compromise about that because I know better at this point. At least the 3 rear coils must be replaced as well as the plugs. The plugs and intake gaskets were replaced 6 years ago , but only 30k miles ago, but again, it would just make sense.

So taking the intake out again has a lot of implications for me at this point. And I am still not sure I could take the knock sensor out from its original location.

So maybe right now it’s a matter of continuing to clear the knock sensor code when it pops up and start buying up coils.

i guess part of this is figuring out how long the coils typically last.

I would still appreciate any feedback from anyone who has successfully relocated the knock sensor to a nearby location that does not entail taking the car apart again.

Thanks

 

Oh, well I don’t know about just resetting the code for a bad sensor. if the sensors bad it’s not doing what it’s supposed to do which is retard your timing if you have a knock. So by ignoring the bad knock sensor and just resetting your code, you’re doing that damage that you were worried about having if you were to relocate a good knock sensor to a different location. I like the idea of cutting the old part off. Once you cut the old part off, you can get a propane torch and heat the part of the bolt that’s left sticking out. If you focus the heat just on the bolt it will expand and contract hopefully enough to break whatever is it thats making it stuck.

sometimes I tend to overthink things. But relocating a knock sensor tdoesn’t sound like a good idea to me (or just clearing codes) because I couldn’t envision a system which takes into account the original location of the knock sensor as part of it operating routine. For example, a knock sensors only purposes is to pick up a certain frequency range of noise at certain amplitudes. The frequency and amplitudes were chosen after some smart engineer take it out The levels where damage could occur, which would be indicative of detonation or preignition. Knock from preignition or detonation can range in amplitude from small to really loud so that system that detect that knock probably is set up so that timing starts getting pulled as a certain amplitude is detected. When you move the sensor to a different location, you’ve changed one of the important input criteria for initiating the system. If the new location is further away cylinder, it might not do anything when that cylinder starts knocking because it will pick up a lower amplitude that doesn’t initiate the system the end result will be broken parts.

I really wish I was able to find information on stuff like that so I would know how to measure certain
. then if know how the system supposed to react so I could check to see if it’s reacting correctly, but all that info is in somebody’s file cabinet and they don’t make it available to the outside world

 

Or post #45 =

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...w-62847/page3/

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...t-pics-164394/

 

Thanks for your reply. The more I think about this, I think the more I am leaning towards something similar to what Patterson did in the fist link. Just makes sense so have it as close as possible as the original location. On the 2nd topic, he just relocated it to a completely different location…that’s not something I want to do.

 

I not quite sure what is going on. I changed my knock sensor in the location right next to the original and now i have a severe taping noise that gets worse when I accelerate. I did loose a small tool in the valley but that should not be causing this. I also discovered that the connector to the knock sensor had been all butchered up at some point, don’t when or who , but my biggest concern is that all awful tapping noise. I hope my engine is not shot, but if it is , it’s going to get fixed. I have sank too much money into the car to give up at this point. I did loose a screw from the back of the manifold there, so I am hoping that the noise is the screw that has lodged itself on around the pulleys

 

Sounds like mating connector for the knock sensor might have a messed up terminal. I can’t remember which side has the female terminals in it but if the knock sensor connector has male terminals id be looking at the female pins on the engine harness. Normally the female pins have a square body with one side having a thin metal wiper that makes the contact with the male pin and that wiper thingy can get splayed open (or pushed out from the terminal). That wiper is kind of spring loaded (although theres no actual spring - its just a thin piece of metal thats is attached near the wire end of the terminal) if some gorilla manhandled those connectors its possible the wiper was pushed out from the center of the female terminals center so it no longer makes contact with the male pin.

look at the pins and see if the female socket/pin is on the engine harness side. If it is get a magnifying glass and a good light and look into the open end of the female terminal. If you see corrosion, you gotta clean it up. I use barkeepers friend mixed with a little water. Get a good stiff brush and try and get it into the sockets with the brush. Rinse with water. If the engine side connector has male pins clean them up the same way.

if the female terminal is on the engine harness side look for that wiper thingy I mentioned. Itll be on either the side facing the inside center of the connector or the outside (long side). It wont be face the short sides.

if that wiper it pushed away from the center you can remove the terminal from the plastic connector body and you can push the spring wiper thingy back into place (towards center of the female socket/terminal to make it contact the pin again)

to get the sockets out is a little tricky but normally theyll be a different colored piece of plastic inside the open connector end of the connector. This locks the sockets or pins in the connect shell. They pry out and are held in place with a small catch like a small bump that gets trapped bu an open sector on the plastic lock.

once the licking plactic piece is out the terminal might be free to come out by pulling the wire attached to the terminal.

there could be a second locking tang on the terminal thats similar to the wiier but it faces the opposite direction twords the wire side. Youd need to push the tang piece in to let the terminal come out. Good luck

 

Heres some examples from some spare connectors and pins I have

 

Heres an old knock sensor I have. It has the pins so it looks like the female terminals are indeed on the engine harness side. Give them a good looking at.

post pics of where the knock sensor is and the best close up shots of bothe connector terminals (looking into connectors). If you see green terminals or grey or black terminals, they need cleaning. They should be silver.

 

thanks so much for your replies.

I have gone ahead and send a message to DrDome, member here who parts the cars, maybe he can help source a connector with the longest possible wiring into the main harness so I can conduct a proper repair.

The noise I was talking about is almost certainly a screw that has fallen into the pulley area , since i went over a speed bump and immediately the sound almost disappeared. Still there, but I am not concerned that something awful has happened any more

 

 

yup! Those cheap little terminal removal tools are vital! I used to use all sorts of little pointy objects to try to remove various style terminals. sometimes the improvised tools would work, and sometimes they would make a mess of things. So i bought these.

These tools are super cheap. They work like a champ and I’m no longer breaking off the tips to my jewelers, screwdrivers, or stabbing myself in the finger using a frog sticker.

here are Two sets of removal tools that I have purchased over the years

 

So about that botched up sensor connect9or, this is what I have



both wires to the knock sensor connector are somehow tied to that single braided wire. I have no idea how it’s actually supposed to be

 

Yes, that does look kind of jacked up. I’m not an ex type owner so tell me what year vehicle you have which engine. I own an STR so you might have a different knock sensor on yours with a different connector than mine but I don’t have anything that looks like, what you’ve shown I’ll pull up my sensor again later

 

The X-Types only have a single knock sensor (inconveniently placed) under the intake manifold.
The sensor has two wires plus a coax screen to suppress unwanted inducted noise into the knock signal. The coax screen is electrically coupled to ground, and ground is also one of the two wires to the sensor.
So even though the cable has three effective conductors (coax screen, wire 1 and wire 2) the sensor plug can just be just 2 pins if during manufacture the coax screen has been internally attached to the sensor ground wire.

Cutting the cable to graft on a new sensor might inadvertently detach the coax screening of the cable and introduce unwanted noise into the knock sensor signal to the ECM.

Aarcuda's picture is of a dual knock sensor harness for his model/engine Jag, therefore it has 4 pins.

 

thanks for your reply! I have been wanting to figure that out and am so confused…..the pictures that I posted are of what has been done to the wiring harness- not the knock sensor itself…..

in regards to the harness and harness connector, what I have been told from someone who has a parts car, is that the connector for the knock sensor has a “dummy” ground wire. ….meaning the ground wire to the knock sensor just ends up wrapped around the shielded part of signal wire, serving no use whatsoever, or whatever use it serves is by being wrapped around the shielded part of another wire…..I don’t know …..I have tried to rewire it like that and now the car throws a P0332 vs the original P0333. Could be that the new knock sensor is now ruined from all the messed up wiring too, I don’t know.

No two ways about it, I need a the sensor pigtail/harness from a donor car as far back as possible . I can’t recreate it because I have no idea how this was originally set up. I am not even sure if that gold looking wire is a braided insulation for a smaller cable within

 

I'll have a look at my 2.1 in the weekend to check and take some photos.
It should be the same as the 2.5 and 3.0 in this regard. ;-)

 

Thanks very much!!!

 

Solved: managed to wire everything correctly, and the light went of on its own. After 2 stops and starts

for anyone in the same predicament in the future:

The brown wire is the “sender” wire. This wire is encased by a woven copper sheath wire . This cover copper sheath wire serves as the grounding for the ground cable which is white. The white cable wraps around the copper sheath.