Turbo actuator or fuel injectors?
Morning all,
I got the inevitable glow plug warning light on my 2006 2.2D Xtype.
As far as I can tell from what I have read here, the most likely cause is either a stuck turbo actuator (smart money says this one) or bad fuel delivery. Can anyone give me advice on how to diagnose without a code scanner? Symptoms as follows:
- power loss while driving
- glow plug light on
- pulled over, shut off engine, restarted, but wouldn't rev and no power to move the car
- now will not start at all now (engine cranks, but no ignition)
- very audible buzzing sound after trying to crank the engine
Any advice welcome, and apologies in advance if I didn't search the forum well enough!
I got the inevitable glow plug warning light on my 2006 2.2D Xtype.
As far as I can tell from what I have read here, the most likely cause is either a stuck turbo actuator (smart money says this one) or bad fuel delivery. Can anyone give me advice on how to diagnose without a code scanner? Symptoms as follows:
- power loss while driving
- glow plug light on
- pulled over, shut off engine, restarted, but wouldn't rev and no power to move the car
- now will not start at all now (engine cranks, but no ignition)
- very audible buzzing sound after trying to crank the engine
Any advice welcome, and apologies in advance if I didn't search the forum well enough!
Thanks @Dell Gailey ,
I did take a look at that video, but I've taken the actuator arm off and the movement really does feel totally free. I've had no power delivery issues at all until now.
- The engine cranks but no ignition whatsoever - feeling more like fuel delivery now.
- It did initially restart after the light initially turned on, but very quickly felt like the fuel "ran dry".
- The glow plug light flashes before I even try and crank the engine - are there sensors like cam / crank position sensors that might have failed?
- Can I manually test the fuel rail pressure anywhere?
- Should I be able to hear the fuel pump running before starting?
Thanks
I did take a look at that video, but I've taken the actuator arm off and the movement really does feel totally free. I've had no power delivery issues at all until now.
- The engine cranks but no ignition whatsoever - feeling more like fuel delivery now.
- It did initially restart after the light initially turned on, but very quickly felt like the fuel "ran dry".
- The glow plug light flashes before I even try and crank the engine - are there sensors like cam / crank position sensors that might have failed?
- Can I manually test the fuel rail pressure anywhere?
- Should I be able to hear the fuel pump running before starting?
Thanks
So read the first paragraph (actuator rod is free), then continue reading the entire thread (did Mr muscle awhile ago), then end up seeing the resolution =( lol, Mr muscle). As I understand it diesels are different than petrol (gas). Run at something like 30,000 p.s.i. vs 55 for gas. I do not believe you can hear the pump like on a gas model.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...nected-258813/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...nected-258813/
Last edited by Dell Gailey; Jun 11, 2022 at 06:39 PM.
I managed to get someone to run a scan, returned 2 codes:
P0226 - Throttle valve / pedal position sensor outside specifid range
0530 - Unknown fault
No indication if these were old errors or new, but any light bulb moments here @Dell Gailey ?
I'l try and see if there is anything "testable" on the throttle pedal like a measureable pot or similar.
P0226 - Throttle valve / pedal position sensor outside specifid range
0530 - Unknown fault
No indication if these were old errors or new, but any light bulb moments here @Dell Gailey ?
I'l try and see if there is anything "testable" on the throttle pedal like a measureable pot or similar.
DTC list attached. Sorry but remember I'm U.S. with gas, not diesel. Not very helpful on your type.
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Thanks @Dell Gailey - useful to have that stashed away regardless. Many codes shared no doubt.
Looks like the diesels have 2 fuel pumps - an "uplift" in the tank itself, and then a high pressure pump in the engine bay. I can't hear anything running at startup, so next step is run 12V to the pump and see if it runs.
Theory of the day is: Uplift pump failed, car goes into limp mode, continues to run until "residual" low pressure supply is consumed by the high pressure pump, now no supply at LP for HP pump - leads to cranking but no ignition. And most importantly - fault state exists when ignition is turned on (no low pressure buildup from uplift pump) leading to error before even trying to start the engine...
I'll probably be back tomorrow with a new theory
EDIT: Looks like the 2.2D didn't have the uplift pump... wiring to the tank is the same for the 2.0L petrol (fuel level sender + pump), but I don't think there's anything inside apart from the level sender.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-issue-213005/ looks useful.
Looks like the diesels have 2 fuel pumps - an "uplift" in the tank itself, and then a high pressure pump in the engine bay. I can't hear anything running at startup, so next step is run 12V to the pump and see if it runs.
I'll probably be back tomorrow with a new theory

EDIT: Looks like the 2.2D didn't have the uplift pump... wiring to the tank is the same for the 2.0L petrol (fuel level sender + pump), but I don't think there's anything inside apart from the level sender.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-issue-213005/ looks useful.
Last edited by Cornerz; Jun 16, 2022 at 09:09 AM.
Have you tried just unplugging stuff?
It can be a really quick and easy way to get some direction on the problem.
Unplug the MAF, or the MAP, or the EGR, and try and start the car, even if you get the car running in limp mode, or with some check engine lights, it will rule out a whole host of problems, since a lot of the time the car will revert to some default values when something is unplugged.
It can be a really quick and easy way to get some direction on the problem.
Unplug the MAF, or the MAP, or the EGR, and try and start the car, even if you get the car running in limp mode, or with some check engine lights, it will rule out a whole host of problems, since a lot of the time the car will revert to some default values when something is unplugged.
Last edited by gijoe50000; Jun 17, 2022 at 08:50 AM.
Thanks @gijoe50000 - that makes sense. Will do that once the battery charger has arrived and the battery has had a boost!
@gijoe50000 @Dell Gailey Thanks for your input here and on the other thread. My iCarsoft LR V2 arrived today and having cleared all the historic faults from plugging and unplugging stuff - I am getting an immediate "Throttle Circuit C" error (which ties back to the P0226 error above). I did test the resistance ranges at the pedal and all seemed happy, so now I have a date with the wiring diagram and my multimeter tonight. Bizarrely it looks like the throttle wiring runs from the pedal, all the way to the connector block on the passenger side of the engine bay next to the fuse / relay box, and back to the big connector on the bulkhead in the engine bay.
Fingers crossed I find the smoking gun.
Fingers crossed I find the smoking gun.
@gijoe50000 @Dell Gailey Thanks for your input here and on the other thread. My iCarsoft LR V2 arrived today and having cleared all the historic faults from plugging and unplugging stuff - I am getting an immediate "Throttle Circuit C" error (which ties back to the P0226 error above). I did test the resistance ranges at the pedal and all seemed happy, so now I have a date with the wiring diagram and my multimeter tonight. Bizarrely it looks like the throttle wiring runs from the pedal, all the way to the connector block on the passenger side of the engine bay next to the fuse / relay box, and back to the big connector on the bulkhead in the engine bay.
Fingers crossed I find the smoking gun.
Fingers crossed I find the smoking gun.
How sure are you that the resistances are good on the pedal? I've never worked on one, but if it's a potentiometer (like a radio dial) then it could be bad at just one tiny spot, like the way an old radio crackles as you turn the knob.
If the wiring seems fine then it might be worth clearing the fault and trying to see exactly when the fault occurs, like at 5% throttle, or 20%, 50%, etc. And if it always happens at the same spot then it could be a bad potentiometer.
Or watching the values for the pedal in the scan tool and see if it goes like 1v, 1.5v, 1.75v, 0v, 2v when you press the pedal.. Then you'd know the potentiometer was bad.
You should have various pedal output values on the scan tool in the live data stream section..
Thansk @gijoe50000 - I've started a new thread with a more appropriate title here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...roblem-260110/
Re. your thoughts - I think I have covered them in the link above.
Cheers!
Re. your thoughts - I think I have covered them in the link above.
Cheers!
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