So I went to start my 2010 2.2D automatic this morning and it would repeatedly start but then immediately die about a second after the engine started running.
I went randomly disconnecting stuff and found that when I disconnected the connection to the turbo it would start fine.
I cleaned the turbo a few months ago with the Mr. Muscle method, and I checked the actuator and it's definitely not sticking, at all.

When I run the car with the actuator arm disconnected, and the wiring connected, it runs fine too.
But if I activate the actuator arm manually (pull if forward) with the car idling the revs will drop (which I assume is normal? too much air in the mix?)
So, I'm wondering what the problem is. Could it be a blockage in the turbo (not related to the actuator)?
Or could the car be activating the turbo at the wrong times causing it to cut out?
Or could it be a problem with the actuator motor, not "actuating" at the right times?

It's one of these:




When I start the car with the arm disconnected the actuator (motor) goes fully forward, and then jumps back and forth a little bit from the forward position, but it doesn't go all the way "back" to the home position until I switch the car off.
As you can tell from this post I'm definitely not an expert on turbos, but I feel that there's enough info in this description for someone smarter than me to know what the problem is.
The car definitely runs better when the actuator arm is disconnected and in the home (backwards) position, and it kind of seems like the actuator motor is going too much forward when it's disconnected.

Here's what I mean by "forwards and backwards", in case it isn't totally obvious:


Thanks in advance!

 

Hi gijoe50000,

I don't have the diesel model but it seems somewhat illogical that the turbo actuator operation cold shut the engine down....limit the performance yes, but whole shut down seems odd unless it is sending a way out of spec position statement back through the CAN bus.
The actuators seem to have a propensity to fail as the common issue members report is orange coil light and limp mode when engine pushed.
That is where your issue is odd, your car exhibits fault at idle.

You might like to take a look at this link which goes into some heavy diagnostics of the actuator operation, but you might glean from it what you should expect from yours.
https://www.picoauto.com/library/cas...ere-power-loss

Also there is a Youtube clip at the foot of that linked page showing the actuator operating at idle, being revved and then retiring to home position when engine shut off.
Perhaps there is a physical clue in that for you.
I would say though that the actuator motor is a DC brush motor which will wear out and as you see in the article can accumulate debris that cause poor operation.

Good luck

 

Thanks, I'll check that link out.
I did also find a "fuel rail pressure too high" error when I hooked up my reader to the car, but it didn't return after I cleared it so it might have just been a random once-off thing that happened months ago. And I'm thinking it's unlikely to be a fuel pressure problem when the issue is around the turbo. Although I could be wrong.

But I did the Mr. Muscle cleaning on the turbo again earlier today, and checked the intake hose, and checked the turbo shaft for play/damage (seemed fine), and it started up first time afterwards (albeit with a lot of smelly smoke and some rough idling for a minute or two). So it could very well have just been a blockage in the turbo, with soot and crap.
I suppose I'll see how it goes for a few days, and if all was well then it was probably just a build up of crap. Since I do do a lot of short trips..

Edit: I did take if for a nice long spin, with plenty of high revs and turbo use, afterwards, and it had no issues at all, ran perfectly..

 

Hi @gijoe50000,

Given your recent aquaintance with the infamous actuator - do you recall at startup, what the movement of the actuator is?

1. Ignition off: All the way to the rear of the car (backwards in your image)
2. Ignition on: Currently it does nothing whatsoever (and I'm sure I remember seeing it move to the forward position previously)
3. Engine idling: ?

I have a dead 2.2D - which initially would start, but not rev, and now will not start at all (cranks as usual but sounds as if there is no fuel being delivered). Quite happy to do the the old Mr Muscle trick, but currently even with the arm disconnected, the actuator doesn't move at all.

I'm getting the flashing glowplug when I turn the ignition on before even attempting to start, so entirely possible some other fault is preventing the car from reaching the actuator movement point in the startup sequence, but perhaps a dead actuator motor is at play...

Any info appreciated... the 2.2D goes like a bomb, has never shown any hesitation and economy to boot, so keen to get it back!

Cheers

 

With mine, the actuator jumps forward after starting, and stays mostly forward, jumping back and forth a little, and when I turn off the car it springs backwards fully.
But even with the actuator connector disconnected the car should start fine, and probably be in limp mode.
You could try randomly disconnecting things and see if it starts, MAF, MAP, turbo actuator, etc..
Or try the test mode to see if it shows any faults: I found it best to record this with my phone and scan back through it afterwards while looking at the explanations.. Here: X-Type.uk | The X-Files | Jaguar X-Type - X-Type Instrument Panel Diagnostics (xtype.uk)

Edit: And no, mine doesn't move at all with the key on. Only when the car starts up.

 

Brilliant, thanks so much for the input @gijoe50000... messing with the actuator seems like as good a place to start as any... and I hadn't realised the instrument diagnostics might also contain engine codes. Will check it out now.

Cheers.

 

If it won't start at all then probably the best place to start would be the battery, starter, fuel pump, but as you said the issue began when the car would start initially.
Probably a good idea to make sure that it is getting fuel.
If you suspect air is the issue you could disconnect the EGR from the manifold and see if the car gets air directly through the manifold, or disconnect the intake at the turbo and see if it's pulling air in. But be careful because the turbo has quite a bit of suction..
Could also be a blockage in the fuel line, where the car initially pulled in a bit of fuel, enough to start the car, but it was restricted somewhere.

 

Thanks @gijoe50000 ... fuel definitely my top suspicion right now. I've confirmed the actuator is 100%, and the arm moves freely. The Glow Plug light flashes before I even try and start the car - so I suspect something is throwing an error even before trying to start the car.

May well be worth getting an OBDII scanner... they're pretty cheap these days!

Cheers

 

I have a true Foseal brand (lots of fake knock offs) out there and it is adequate for basic codes. For advanced diagnostics I prefer the iCarsoft LRII it does everything but plug itself in.

 

Yea, scanners are really handy, I also have the iCarsoft LRII and it's pretty good to look at changing values, but I'm sure it's not as good as a Snap-On, or Autel, but probably much better than a cheap Bluetooth one.