I have a 2002 x type auto that starts and runs fine, but acts as if in neutral while in any gear.

The following conditions exist:

The car rolls freely in any gear (including park).

I can move the selector through the gears as normal, but when returning to the park setting I hear a clicking (chattering sound) from the front of the car. Sound lasts maybe 1-2 seconds.

I added 2 qts of trans fluid with no change (haven't checked level yet).

Problem occurred while driving, immobilizing the car.

I tried the moving the lever held on by two bolts under the battery tray (previous forum thread) with no change.

I appreciate any trouble shooting advice you can give.

Thanks,

Dave

 

I checked the fluid level, and it appears that there was too much fluid. Well over the two quarts I added. I drained it to the proper level, and now it will move in reverse, but not the others. I haven't traveled more than a foot backwards, as it's a monsoon outside, and I don't want to get stranded in the rain. I still get that horrible noise when returning to park most of the time.

please reply with any suggestions.

 

Well I can't imagine that it's a good sign for your tranny with those symptoms...not to be doom and gloom but I might start looking around for a used one or contact a couple of trans shops and see what they would charge to diagnose your problems...but my money would be on needing a new tranny...unless there is something funky with the shift cable itself.

 

Chris- Thermo,

I thought I would reroute our discussion on the fill thread to this one as it is probably more specific.

I think you are right about the pump. After analyzing the diagrams, it appears that if the the seal in the trochoid pump failed, the torque converter wouldn't pressurize. I tried reverse again and it just barely moves the car- not with the force it should. Reverse is taller that 1st. (2.97 to 3.08) but is on the opposite side, where flow may have an effect. Again I am new to these things, is my logic correct? If so, where would you recomend I purchase this seal and o-ring (the dealer or can you recommend a better source). I'm not sure I totally understand the park circuit. Is the lever that locks to the case (?) mechanical, would it still need pressure to shift to park?

Thanks again,

Dave

 

Dave, yes, you are correct in your thinking when it comes to the movement of the car.

As for replacing the pump, I would check out Nalley Jaguar (sponsor here, Jaguar Atlanta - Nalley Jaguar - New & Used Jaguar Dealer - Jaguar Service, Repair - Marietta, Duluth) and see what they can do for you. Make sure to tell them that you are a member here as they will give you a discount (like 10-15% as I recall). You can also try JaguarParts.com ("Jaguar Parts" - Jaguar parts and accessories catalog). They are a dealership out of Cleveland Ohio and they can hook you up to if the dealership can get the parts. After that, I would recommend talking with a tranny shop and seeing what they say. I'm not familiar with the Jatco trannies enough to start ripping one apart. But, the tranny shop should know enough to atleast get you going in the right direction.

 

It appears the pump is pretty easy to get to (right behind the torque converter (won't require a transmission tear down). If there is any question to it's condition, i will probably replace the tranny. I plan to drop the transmission this weekend. It looks like I will have to fabricate quite a few tools. Before I spend to much of the weekend grinding and welding, are there any tips as to ways to getting around some of them (using a ball joint seperator incorrectly by wacking it on the side for the half-shafts for instance?). again thanks for all the help.

Very slightly off topic-- Electrically, would it be a nightmare to go to a 5 speed? I could probably replace the ECM, but what about the harness, would that need a swap as well & is it interrelated to the chassis harness

Thanks again for all the help! I'm new to this forum and it is really put together well. The manual is a lifesaver!!!

Dave

 

dave, in short, the tranny computer would have to be ripped out of the car and then the ECM reprogrammed to let it know that it has a manual tranny. So, you are looking at atleast $120 or so for shop time to get the ECU reprogrammed plus any parts to complete the retrofit. I know some of the points that are used to pluck information from are different between a manual and auto tranny. But, in most cases, you can probably use the others point as it is simply going after an easier to get to point. But, things like the reverse lights for example will require a modification to the wiring harness to make them work.

 

Thanks again,

Do you know if the firewall has mount points for the clutch assembly, or would those require fabrication?

No problem on the brake lights or anything minor like that. I could probably pick up a used ecm from a manual for less than hassle with the reprogram. Would there be any issues with a replacement manual ECM?

 

I have everything disconnected, but am having trouble clearing the hoop on the sub-frame from the companion flange on the transfer case. Is there a seal on the backside of this flange, and will oil drain if removed? Also I am having trouble separating the wheel knuckles. I have the bolt removed and the tapered shaft released, yet I can't seem to get the clearance to completely remove the shaft (the sub is lowered as much as I can with the above issue). The arrows on this in the manual are unclear.

As far as the sub, I did try different angles:
dropped front first, then rear
rear first then the front
and together equally.
What is the trick to removing these?

Thanks,

Dave

 

Thanks to Thermo i was able to separate the knuckles. A grove inside the joint kept them separating with a normal ball joint separator. A simple pry of the slot helped them off.

 

Anyone have any tips on removing the left hand half shaft? Should I remove it at the velocity joint by removing the boot, or should I comprise a slide hammer similar to the jag tool? If I separate without the hammer, will I be sorry as will it be hard to remove with the transmission loose?

Thanks,

Dave

 

I have been busy at work, but still have managed to make a little further progress into this project. The Transfer case wasn't leaking (no leaks, plenty of fluid), but internally was broken down to shreds of metal (a real mess) and totally un-rebuildable. Before I pulled this apart, I removed the transmission and started it's dismantle. The trans is quite straightforward in terms of it's rebuild. I have checked the reverse and high speed pistons (perfect), all of the clutch discs- (internal to the trans as well as those located within the piston assembly(Perfect)), The internal differential (Checks out), the transmission fluid pump (seems fine). I plan to check each of the solenoids this evening. So. far everything checks O.K. I believe that when the transfer case went, it stripped out the splines on the tip of the main halfshaft causing the open differential effect in the transmission. I'm not sure if anyone in my local area can run a check on the torque converter. Does Amaco offer this service? I don't have any experience with these, but when turned wile held in the running position it does make some suspicious noises.

I have been scoping the auctions for a parts car, but the prices seem really overinflated. A x-type with severe body damage is still selling for 1,600 to 2,000 dollars. This is more than I paid for my car which was a garage queen in immaculate shape (albeit not moving).

I will take some photos of the internals of the transmission soon, and post, for others reference.

Thanks,

Dave

 

Hi guys. I have been driving my X-type 2002 for some time and realized recently that when shifting between gears 1-3 that it would slip sometimes. I recently was reversing my car out of a parking spot and when i put my car into "D" i hit the gas but nothing happened. after restarting my car a few times the car finally moved but only long enough to get me home and having to restart engine a few times along the way. it wouldn't get higher than 2nd gear. Also no lights were on my car except the check engine light. After getting car home i was able to get these codes from the diagnostics:

E510
D900
A879
9318

The car now doesn't recognize that it is in any gear and acts like its in neutral al the time. I'm attempting to do a hard reset to see if this clears the codes and to see if anything works. Any ideas as to what it could be?

 

Dave, my transmission is doing the same exact thing after my transfer case went out and was replaced.

Did you ever figure out what the problem was?

Thanks!

-Ray

 

Hey Dave, I am very curious as to how you were able to resolve your shifting problem. I know this thread is back from July. However, the heading does say FIXED! When you have time, please let me and maybe other members know what finally resolved your problem. THANK YOU DAVE!!!

 

Hello all - i'm having the same issue and thinking bout just giving up - anyone have any success stories!? Please I love my baby and don't wanna give her up