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Hi guys, I’m looking to do a coolant flush. I actually have no idea how to do it, and I tried looking for a post but being an amateur it’s difficult. If someone could guide me to a thread or help that would be wonderful.
Hi guys, I’m looking to do a coolant flush. I actually have no idea how to do it, and I tried looking for a post but being an amateur it’s difficult. If someone could guide me to a thread or help that would be wonderful.
Why? It can't be close to being due (10 yrs/160,000 miles). Aluminum motors don't react with the coolant like iron blocks.
...Despite the owner's manual 160k interval, I can't imagine the ph balance of new vs old coolant is identical....
How would you know unless you measured it? I stopped the biannual brake fluid change when I got a meter to measure the water content. Haven't changed brake fluid in years because it has never shown any water (digital/resistance meter). Coolants are better today with more protectants and the corrosion factor is almost non existent with aluminum motors/cooling and cabin heating systems. Synthetic oils have extended oil change intervals way beyond manufacturers recommendations unless the motor is regularly stressed. To each their own.
Can you test your current coolant's ph?
How many months & miles on yours now?
Mine is brand new and can be the control base ph.
4 years and 19K miles. Never tested coolant ph nor knew if was important for Al motors. I'll test. What's the best way? From the reservoir OK? I had a MB Al engine car that I changed out the water pump at 120K miles and the coolant looked as new so I assumed it was OK and all Al motors were the same.
4 years and 19K miles. Never tested coolant ph nor knew if was important for Al motors. I'll test. What's the best way? From the reservoir OK? I had a MB Al engine car that I changed out the water pump at 120K miles and the coolant looked as new so I assumed it was OK and all Al motors were the same.
There's a Walmart on Talbert Ave, HB that has the pH test strip kits for $8.00.
Coolant tank strip dip or turkey baster an ounce and drip onto the strip..
Given that ClubAirth & SinF disagree on the value of pre-160k change, I'm anxious to see how much pH change occurs after 4 years.
My next day off is Tuesday so I can test and post my findings. (As an aside, I was very encouraged by my Blackstone oil analysis..)
OP IkeMen, are you still with us on the thread?
If so, any progress on your flush?
There's a Walmart on Talbert Ave, HB that has the pH test strip kits for $8.00......Coolant tank strip dip or turkey baster an ounce and drip onto the strip......
I meant the best way to do the test I'm assuming it makes no difference hot or cold and coolant tank is easy peasy. And as far as the pH is concerned I get different answers to ideal/acceptable when searching. Anything from 7.5 to 11. Some say the new long life coolants (usually orange) ideal is 8.5 and the old fluorescent green ideal is 9.5. and they both can drop a point and still be OK. Learned something new with this.
Got the meter and did the test....... 7.86 Now, I've read "ideal" pH from 7.5 tp 11 depending on the site but shouldn't "ideal" be 7 ..... neutral? Al reacts with both acidic and alkaline solutions so why is pH> 7 listed as OK? Also, since it's in a closed system with no Fe involved and shouldn't leach out CO2 why would the pH drop at all despite being heated and cooled? Just asking, couldn't find answers.
OK, now I'm getting too deep into this pH thing According to this web site (easy layman's terms) https://www.chardonlabs.com/resource...num-corrosion/ the ideal range of pH to keep aluminum stable in aqueous solution is 4 to 8.5. If mine dropped .64 in 4 years (assuming it started at 8.3) it would only drop to 7.2 in 10 years so 10 yr/160,000 miles seems conservative. And as far as I can tell there's no "wear" factor with coolant unless it gets contaminated (like from a steel part corroding) and the reduction in pH is more attributed to time since it's in a closed environment. Our old iron block engines turned the coolant from green to brown/black when left in too long and the heads and block were always heavily rusted and reduced the cooling so the incentive was there to change early. So if I keep it that long 10 years will be my change point. I think manufacturers recommendations are always on the far conservative side to cover heavier usage/abuse and make them more money in service (where the real money is).
Coolant Flush
I stopped the biannual brake fluid change when I got a meter to measure the water content. Haven't changed brake fluid in years because it has never shown any water (digital/resistance meter). Coolants are better today with more protectants and the corrosion factor is almost non existent with aluminum motors/cooling and cabin heating systems. Synthetic oils have extended oil change intervals way beyond manufacturers recommendations unless the motor is regularly stressed. To each their own.
