I recently sold my 2013 and got a 2014 with only 36k miles on it. The dealer had done the y-pipe repair which made me feel better about purchasing it. I got a check engine light a couple weeks ago and it threw a p2183 which is the coolant temp sensor #2. Can anyone tell me where it is located and how hard it is to get to it? I wanted to check the connector first to make sure the dealer may have not reconnected it very well or it got dirty or something making it not read correctly. I cleared the code and the light has been off but it has a permanent code set. I've noticed the car doesn't shut off as often as I'd expect and wonder if related to that sensor not reading properly. I hope this isn't a case of "remove the supercharger" just to get to it.

 

 

Thank you for sending that info. My light has remained off since I cleared it but when I scan, it shows that code and permanent stated. I've read a little bit does that mean the car detects issues with the sensor on occasion so won't clear itself and why I might have intermittent eco mode occurrences?

Is the lower hose connector and thermostat referenced on the front and easy to access from above or have to take off belly pan and get to it from under? I keep finding stuff related to the 5.0 and assume not the same for a 3.0.

I have found the connector I believe but looks untouched. Not quite sure how to troubleshoot and might be worth just replacing. My fear is since they did some y pipe work and had supercharger off, did they not get something re-connected related to the sensor 1 and is the true source of the discrepancy? I'm not exactly sure why I don't have a MIL lit now and the permanent code is there.

FYI, I discovered soon after the MIL came on that the coolant tank was well over filled. The reservoir is a little hard to determine level IMO and have to use a light to really see. When I went to remove the cap after it sat for about an hour, fluid started coming out. I waited about another hour and it still came out but finally got cap completely off and the fluid was obviously to the top of the neck of the cap. I siphoned out several baster amounts out and then kept checking it and is now at the proper level. How does a reputable dealer overfill that much? I've had some questionable experiences previously so maybe they aren't so reputable. I digress.

 

Reputable dealer is an oxymoron.

Look if there is a date stamp on the freeze frame for the stored code, if it is right after they worked on it, maybe you can get them to own up to making things right.

 

LOL, what was I thinking? I'm not sure I trust them anymore. I saw the comments when they replaced the y pipe that they put it back together and there were issues with it running. It said they removed supercharger again and something about finding some gasket material. Put it back together and was fine supposedly. I expect something more I suppose and attention to detail and caution, while doing that job to not have something like that happen.

I decided to just go ahead and purchase a new sensor from rockauto and will replace it. Seems like the code thrown and verbiage I've read indicate it might be happening sporadically and also could be reading the same (not fluctuating). If that is the case, I'm not sure trying to check the sensor will prove anything. I typically don't like throwing parts at something without some certainty it will resolve the issue.

 

I replaced the sensor this past Saturday and have driven it every day since. I keep scanning using a handheld scanner and the code remains. I unhooked the main battery last night and left it off for about 45 minutes. Scanned this morning and code is still there. The car warms up normal it seems. I've looked at the temps after driving and it reports about 203 for the $00 and $01 temps. I say that because I think I saw someone with an XK have a similar issue and someone said they replaced the whole housing, which I believe comes with a new sensor, and it seemed to fix it. I'm not sure if by "fix" it means no check engine light and possibly the car still had the permanent code like mine does. What are anyone's thoughts on the permanent code? Other than SDD or going to the dealer is the only way to clear it? I figure after a number of ignition cycles if the condition isn't present then the code would automatically clear. Is it possible some other underlying condition exists which occasionally throws the code but doesn't trigger the check engine and causes the code to remain permanent? I suppose I could get the whole housing from Rockauto and replace it with hopes there is a thermostat issue but I'm not understanding how it could cause the sensor to throw that code.

 

Probably need to swap the ECU as it sounds like an internal fault. I had to swap mine because it kept reporting P0017. The new one reports different codes from time to time but if I swap back P0017 always come back. Fairly cheap on Ebay, need programming to the car though.

 

I'm trying to get set up with SDD and a cable but not there yet. I have just the base on the one I have now but sure would like XM back like I had on my '13. The car has the shark fin on the roof and I thought it was for XM antenna. Anyone close by who already has SDD and a cable who can help?