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I've done it again

 
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Old 03-08-2019, 09:36 AM
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Default I've done it again

I have come up with another brilliant idea.

The plastic in the cooling system weakens over time from heat and pressure cycles. Eventually the pressure bursts the plastic, usually at the seams, many have lost engines.

One really good idea: Get rid of the pressure.

The cooling system can get up to 20psi before the coolant tank cap releases the extra pressure. Pump up a football to 20psi to get an idea of how much pressure that is. That convicted cheater, Tom Brady, wouldn't be able to hold the ball, much less throw it!

Here's how I plan to get rid of the pressure: Waterless coolant. Yes, you heard that right, waterless coolant. Water heats up and increases the pressure. That pressure is how steam locomotives worked, so water can create a lot of pressure.

Evans makes a waterless coolant, and that means no pressure: https://www.evanscoolant.com/how-it-...ater-pressure/

Here's a video for those that need a visual. Evans is in the middle, and all of these are being heated up with a blow torch to see what pressure builds:


It's hundreds of dollars to buy the Evans product ($50/gallon), and it's a complete pain to switch to Evans because you have to use a flush product (which also costs dearly) to get rid of all the water and old coolant out of the system because if there is any water left, it will create pressure. But compared the cost and effort to switch coolant the alternative of a blown engine, it's a great proposition. Without the pressure, the plastic will last much longer, and more importantly, when it does fail, the coolant won't blow out the plastic is blaze of glory, it will just dribble out, so you now can get away without proactively replacing the plastic.

Freaking brilliant! I am definitely going to start by switching the coolant on the Rover.
 

Last edited by lotusespritse; 03-08-2019 at 09:40 AM.
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Old 03-08-2019, 10:05 AM
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Sounds amazing... if you do it, come back with the results.
 
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Old 03-08-2019, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by mrNewt View Post
Sounds amazing... if you do it, come back with the results.
Doesnít work like that.

The desired result is not to have a blown out cooling system, and that will take years to see if it happens or not. Canít just put in the coolant and report back.

Itís like youíre asking someone to report back immediately if when they just started taking blood thinners if it stopped a future stroke years from now. Thatís a pretty crazy, isnít it??
 
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Old 03-08-2019, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by lotusespritse View Post


Doesn’t work like that.

The desired result is not to have a blown out cooling system, and that will take years to see if it happens or not. Can’t just put in the coolant and report back.

It’s like you’re asking someone to report back immediately if when they just started taking blood thinners if it stopped a future stroke years from now. That’s a pretty crazy, isn’t it??
Nowhere have I mentioned to come back right in the instant you are done with the setup with results .
Periodic updates and checks will be in place... like, does the car works the same with the new fluid... any overheating issues... does it play nice and safe with all the pipes it has to go trough and so on and so forth.
And yes, I expect this to last around 2-3 years (even more depending on how much you drive that car).
 
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Old 03-08-2019, 05:01 PM
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Any idea what the heat capacity of this stuff is? Water has a particularly high specific heat capacity: putting in something else may just make your whole cooling system less efficient.
 
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Old 03-08-2019, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by NerdAlert View Post
Any idea what the heat capacity of this stuff is? Water has a particularly high specific heat capacity: putting in something else may just make your whole cooling system less efficient.
I'd read the MSDS sheet for the Evans stuff and its basically straight antifreeze with a tiny amount of other secret ingredients. From what I've read about it, your coolant temperatures will go waaay up, but the engine is supposed to be able to take it. Its not when your temp sender registers over 220 that's so much a problem as much as when the water in the system does in fact turn to steam that the pressures spike plus steam has no additional thermal capacity and thus the temps shoot to 400+ in random spots all of a sudden, warping things. I'd also read something somewhere about how the higher coolant temps may cause some modern systems to register fault codes as it thinks its beyond safe parameters.

But I guess all you can do is try it. I though about it when I changed the water pump the last time. We have a Summit Racing store nearby and I've picked up and read the whole labels on the jugs and walked around the store thinking about it. I even found a local shop that would do the flush and install the Evans coolant (they recycle the flush through their machine and use it over again so its less wasteful). But I wasn't brave enough to go ahead and try it myself as the OP said, it would be a rather expensive experiment. I decided to wait for someone on here to try it first. So I eagerly await the early results.
 

Last edited by pdupler; 03-09-2019 at 07:57 AM.
 
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