I have come up with another brilliant idea.

The plastic in the cooling system weakens over time from heat and pressure cycles. Eventually the pressure bursts the plastic, usually at the seams, many have lost engines.

One really good idea: Get rid of the pressure.

The cooling system can get up to 20psi before the coolant tank cap releases the extra pressure. Pump up a football to 20psi to get an idea of how much pressure that is. That convicted cheater, Tom Brady, wouldn't be able to hold the ball, much less throw it!

Here's how I plan to get rid of the pressure: Waterless coolant. Yes, you heard that right, waterless coolant. Water heats up and increases the pressure. That pressure is how steam locomotives worked, so water can create a lot of pressure.

Evans makes a waterless coolant, and that means no pressure: https://www.evanscoolant.com/how-it-...ater-pressure/

Here's a video for those that need a visual. Evans is in the middle, and all of these are being heated up with a blow torch to see what pressure builds:


It's hundreds of dollars to buy the Evans product ($50/gallon), and it's a complete pain to switch to Evans because you have to use a flush product (which also costs dearly) to get rid of all the water and old coolant out of the system because if there is any water left, it will create pressure. But compared the cost and effort to switch coolant the alternative of a blown engine, it's a great proposition. Without the pressure, the plastic will last much longer, and more importantly, when it does fail, the coolant won't blow out the plastic is blaze of glory, it will just dribble out, so you now can get away without proactively replacing the plastic.

Freaking brilliant! I am definitely going to start by switching the coolant on the Rover.

 

Sounds amazing... if you do it, come back with the results.

 

 

Nowhere have I mentioned to come back right in the instant you are done with the setup with results .
Periodic updates and checks will be in place... like, does the car works the same with the new fluid... any overheating issues... does it play nice and safe with all the pipes it has to go trough and so on and so forth.
And yes, I expect this to last around 2-3 years (even more depending on how much you drive that car).

 

Any idea what the heat capacity of this stuff is? Water has a particularly high specific heat capacity: putting in something else may just make your whole cooling system less efficient.

 

I'd read the MSDS sheet for the Evans stuff and its basically straight antifreeze with a tiny amount of other secret ingredients. From what I've read about it, your coolant temperatures will go waaay up, but the engine is supposed to be able to take it. Its not when your temp sender registers over 220 that's so much a problem as much as when the water in the system does in fact turn to steam that the pressures spike plus steam has no additional thermal capacity and thus the temps shoot to 400+ in random spots all of a sudden, warping things. I'd also read something somewhere about how the higher coolant temps may cause some modern systems to register fault codes as it thinks its beyond safe parameters.

But I guess all you can do is try it. I though about it when I changed the water pump the last time. We have a Summit Racing store nearby and I've picked up and read the whole labels on the jugs and walked around the store thinking about it. I even found a local shop that would do the flush and install the Evans coolant (they recycle the flush through their machine and use it over again so its less wasteful). But I wasn't brave enough to go ahead and try it myself as the OP said, it would be a rather expensive experiment. I decided to wait for someone on here to try it first. So I eagerly await the early results.

 

Finally got around to taking my own advice and switching one of my cars to Evans. It is quite a process to clean out the old coolant/water out of the system so it doesn't contaminate the new Evans and ruin its benefits.

I did it on the 2014 Range Rover Sport that has the same 3.0L supercharged V6 as many of the XFs and the engine is a close relative to the 5.0L in my XFs. The Range Rover hasn't had all its plastic replaced, which is why I started with that car since it's more at risk than the XF's that had all their plastic replace recently.

The Range Rover also has a handy temp gauge on the dash so I can see the before and after, and it's been crazy hot in Houston recently.

After the switch to Evans, the result is that the temp of the engine still stays solidly halfway like it did before the change. So even if Evans is less effective, the Rover still stays cool with it. And the other important test of the result is that right after the car has been running hard in this heat, I can immediately remove the cap from the coolant reservoir and there's literally no pressure in the system. Do that with regular coolant, and you'll get a face full of scalding coolant.

That lack of pressure will help:
- Keep the plastic from splitting open
- Keep the water pump seal from blowing out
- If there is a leak, it will keep the coolant from flying out and just oozing out slowly while I get a low coolant light and have time to shut down the car
- If there is a leak, the boiling point of the coolant won't lower like regular water-based coolant, so the coolant won't turn to steam and warp the heads or drop a valve seat

The reservoir cap on modern Jags is 20psi, and that's a ton of pressure on the plastic and seals trying to burst it open. A non-Brady football is rock hard at 13 psi, and these cooling systems are running at significantly more than a football so they can keep the boiling point of water-based coolant higher.

So I won't have that high pressure constantly working to destroy the coolant system in my Rover. Now I need to do it in the other cars.

It's a lifetime coolant, so you do it once and you are done, unlike the 5 year orange coolant that comes from the factory.

 

Even though your arguments concerning a pressure free system are conclusive
there obviously are some effects like increased fluid temperature which
aren't beneficial for the health of plastic parts as well as for the engine
itself.

No-Rosion Products Technical Questions and Answers

Regards

Ulrich

 

Dude, you’re referencing an ad for a competitive product. This statement from that company has already proven bogus:

Stabilized coolant temps are increased by 31-48oF, versus straight water with No-Rosion.

My temp gauge in the Rover would we pegged if this was true. The rest of their numbers are now disqualified as a result.

 

Yes I know !
But from a scientific point of view a lot of things mentioned in this paper
are simply true. If the fluid has a lower heat capacity compared to a
"normal water based coolant fluid" and the mass flow of the fluid is lower
due to a higher viscosity the result must be a higher average temperature
difference to remove the same thermal dissipation loss of your engine.
That's not marketing that's applied physics.

Regards
Ulrich

 

Well apparently it's theoretical physics. Applied physics shows that my Rover doesn't run any hotter.

Maybe you can start quoting Slick 50's studies next.