Well this is a pain in the butt.

After replacing all the hoses, pipes and water pump, no leaks, engine runs OK BUT I now have a bunch of unrelated error codes. And a couple of things that worry me.

1) After vacuum filling the system, the reservoir is filled totally to the brim, I expected it to go down a bit once running as the heater core filled etc.
2) The heater does NOT seem to be putting out heat, although it was a hot day (89deg)
3) There are a number of hoses going into the thermostat, a fat hose from under the (new) thermostat going to the side of the radiator is stone cold.

Now, could be I haven't run it enough, but I am reluctant to drive it around the block in case I blow the motor because of some coolant issue because of these suspicious things. Do our cars actually display a temperature warning? I hate not having an engine temperature gauge.

I am getting a boat load of errors relating to mass air flow and air temperature sensors plus the vvt error is still there despite me soldering the wires back to the sensor as shown in a prior thread, and yes, I did check continuity back to the ECU.

Sounds like wiring issues, but I don't see that I broke a wire or left a connector loose.

Now, I have not totally connected up everything just in case there were issues like this, but I have connected the throttle body to the air filter boxes, so air is being drawn across the mass air flow sensors, I didn't know if a false reading would be obtained with no air flowing across them? It didn't seem to help!

Any thoughts?





Running the motor for ten or fifteen minutes shows ECT at around 190degF

 

This could be a false alarm. Turns out "permanent" error codes cannot be reset by an OBD scanner or by disconnecting the battery, they are cleared by the OBD system detecting that the error has gone away which may take up to 15 stop start cycles apparently.

I first fired up the car with the air boxes and thus the air flow sensors disconnected. I fixed the VVT sensor wiring when I did the hoses so that probably hasn't ahd time or sufficient restarts to clear.

All thanks to living in the peoples republic of Kalifornia where they worry about us resetting our DTCs just prior to getting a smog check. I guess the rest of you will get this in due course.

https://www.bar.ca.gov/Industry/Indu...ble_Codes.aspx

 

Huh, interesting - my Autel code reader can clear all those kind of codes. However, clearing DTCs also resets the "ready" indicators that are checked for smog, and these will only return after completing a full drive cycle, so that's how they stop people resetting DTCs just before smog.

Regarding the coolant and your heater not getting hot, did you bleed it following the JLR process? I've attached the workshop manual chapter for the Supercharged engine but most of the important points on the last couple of pages I'd imagine apply to the NA as you have the same bleed screw etc.

 

I don't think you need to do the bleed screw thing if you do a vacuum fill, at least the manual reads that way.

The only deal I thought strange in the manual was running the motor at 2000rpm for 8 minutes? I didn't go that long.

Regarding your Autel, are you SURE you can delete permanent codes? According to the state of CA you should not be able to. I can't imagine some scanners can and some can't that would defeat the object of their (CA state) latest scam.

Whole article: https://www.autoserviceworld.com/car...ermanent-dtcs/

************************************************** ************************************************** ************************************************** **************

On that note, there’s another change coming down the pipes that technicians need to be aware of — Permanent DTCs. Starting with certain 2009 vehicles, and mandatory for all 2010 model year vehicles (and there’s already some of these on Canadian roads), this new type of DTC is being phased in to meet new American emission legislation.

Permanent DTCs are designed to stop dishonest folks from cheating on emission tests by just clearing the codes when the vehicle has an emission-related fault, without fixing the problem and allowing the vehicle to leave the shop without a proper fix. So the idea behind the technology is indeed noble.

But there’s one hitch. Permanent DTCs aren’t cleared in the usual way, with a scan tool or in some cases by disconnecting the battery. They have a unique way to clear them, and they’re already giving technicians a few headaches.

Permanent DTCs can only be cleared by proving to the computer that the problem has been fixed and the condition is not returning. And since emission programs and legislation are already causing more than enough headaches for Canadian shop owners and technicians, it’s important to understand how these new DTCs work to prevent problems and misdiagnosis.

 

Yes, 100%. I've cleared at least one of the exact codes you have listed when I haven't had MAF sensors connected etc.

However, I strongly suspect that based on the layout of the menus on my Autel they've at least partly reverse-engineered SDD, so it may be using functionality that standard OBDII readers can't.

 

You have no signature for your post. We have no idea what year make and model car you have. How did you become a "Senior Member" of this forum with no signature?

 

Unrelated to this post, I'm trying to find out if my 2010 5.0l supercharged XF has any ability for me to see things in the driver's control center regarding oil temp and pressure, coolant temperature and pressure, tire pressure, etc. I don't understand why such a technically stout car such as this doesn't come with monitoring aids for the driver to access. Do you know if this lives in some secret menu somewhere with weird button presses?

 

Sorry you're offended by my senior-ship.
I'm sure the color of my car in a sig will help others understand what's going on.

And, yes, your post is totally unrelated, so why not start your own thread?

 

Hi Jeff just a comment but on the 5.0L engine there is no oil pressure sensor so you can't read it.
I can see all those other signals with aftermarket scanners and one of the ones I use is Torque Pro. But you can't using just the car. Also you can't see individual tire pressures either. System is either happy with the pressures or you must check all 4 tires to see which ones are low.
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@clubairth1
This is unfortunate on a car that costs $80k. Even the most basic of vehicles have these "amenities". As for the oil pressure, there has to be some sort of sensor because I can check the level of the oil using the button of my turn signal stalk before starting the car. It looks like I'm going to have to look into an OBDII sender and hooking it up to my phone for observation purposes.

 

Jeff - there is an electronic oil depth gauge. But that's not a pressure sensor. No pressure sensor for oil on that engine. Search on here - someone did add one themselves

Clubairth - the system does know which specific tyre is low - if you get a tpms low pressure warning it identifies the specific tyre to check on the instrument console. However it doesn't display a numeric pressure number.

 

Jeff I agree with you and in fact I don't really understand why we even need to use a code reader? It's all available in the car they just need to output it somewhere. It would be pretty simple and if they wanted to hide it from most normal drivers they could have at least stuck it in Engineering mode! I mean the Torque Pro App is like $5 so it's real cheap to do.

Yes and what's even stranger is the 3.0L engine does have an oil pressure sensor and that port is on the 5.0L engine! But it apparently is very tight and restricted in that area and the factory just did not put one in. We have had a very experienced member (Can't remember but maybe Xdave?) who had to rebuild his 5.0L SC engine and when he put it all back together he did tap and install a gauge sensor for oil pressure.

Thanks Britcars I only saw the yellow warning light on the dashboard but the handbook does say it tells you which tire too.



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