Is there a way to find out the diagnostic code without going to Autozone right now? I don't have the time till Monday and I need to drive my XF to work over the weekend.

Currently the 2013 XF only has 9000 miles on it.

At 8000 miles, the dealership discovered a waterpump leaking issue.

Today, the car did something really werid. It shut itself off after it went into eco mode and me taking off the seatbeat. The drivetrain was STILL IN DRIVE, but the car just decided to shut itself off.

I know the feature in which the car will shut itself off after you put it in PARK, but NOT when it's still in DRIVE.

So far the car runs with no problem. Shifting is smooth and eco mode still works..but the check engine light is on.

 

I know on the X-Type and a lot of other earlier Jags, if you press and hold the TRIP button on the turn signal stalk as you start the car and keep holding it until the message center says "TEST" or "Engineering TEST", you can put the instrument cluster into a diagnostic mode. From there, you can press the TRIP button some more and reach a point where it will say "DTC XXXX" where the XXXX is 4 characters (the last 3 will be numbers, the first character may be a number or a letter). You can decifer the XXXX part into the DTC code(s) that your vehicle is experiencing.

Once you get the information, post it here and I will decifer it for you.

 

My DTC codes are weird. Under DTCs

063544 9C3314
9C3514 C12800

Also it seems that my car is not in limp mode. Been driving at 70mph cruising like normal.

 

Singuy, well, you have my stumped. I can not find any information that will convert those codes over to something more useful. So, odds are, your best bet will be to get the codes read via a normal reader as soon as you can. If you do some looking on e-bay, they have some bluetooth readers that are like $35 that will read the codes straight from your OBD port. Then all you need to do is to download a free app on to an android phone and you can see real time data for your car, read/clear codes, and a ton of other stuff.

 

You know, I think my car has done this a few times(not along with the CEL) but I think there must be some sort of glitch, but as you said it'll still be in drive. I'll then have to turn the knob to park and push the start/stop button. As for the CEL I've had two bad O2 sensors, a quick trip to autozone verified this.

 

Okay, just drove into work and when I pulled into my parking spot I pressed hard enough on the brake to activate the stop/start and then unbuckled my seatbelt at which point my car went into park by itself and turned off, I'm guessing this is an automatic feature.

 

Follow up guys.

So today morning, went to autozone to verify what the code is but autozone was still closed. Ended up at my parents and 1 hour later, the check engine light no longer lights up! The Eco mode, however, no longer work for the duration of that trip.

After turning the car off and on, the engine light is now OFF and the Eco mode works like normal again..so far all issues have been solved magically...

 

Singuy, the CEL will go off after a finite number of start/stops made by the motor with the problem clear and not returning during those start/stop cycles (normally it is 5 start/stop cycles and the light clears on the 6th start, but you have to have the motor complete so many REVs during a run for it to consider it a completed cycle).

Just to ask a probing question, when you were having the issue, was the weather rainy outside or had you just had your car washed? Sometimes water has been known to find its way into a plug and start shorting out a signal which will cause the computer to think something is wrong. This can normally be solved by figuring out the offending plug and then putting some di-electric grease into the plug to prevent the water from entering.

 

Nope, I didn't wash the car. Car was perfectly normal when all these "problems" started. I didn't feel the car performed any different during this entire incident.

 

Well the problem came back today out of the blue. Going to the dealership tomorrow to get it checked out. Kind of weird for the check engine light to come and go like this.

 

Nope! Many codes set after an "event", then clear with either engine temperature cycles, or start cycles, or even "run time without additional events".

 

Appears there's a little bit of oil on the fuel injection sensor for no good reason which caused the light to go in and out.

Also the water pump is still failing after it was fixed 2 months ago. Did they never get this issue solved?

 

Singuy, I would be telling the dealership that this is strike 2. I can buy a water pump failing during the warrantee as anything mechanical will have its "bad apples". But, to get 2 of them back to back. The odds of that are pretty low. So, get the 3rd water pump in there and see what happens at that point.

As for the initial problem with the CEL, I would be asking why there is oil on the sensor in the first place on something this new. I would love to hear their explanation of this. I know I have "fun" with dealerships as I will take what they say and start feeding some info back and them and it is amazing how fast the story changes once they figure out that you know something about cars and you can talk tech with them.

 

Not all service departments are created equally, I'd head to another dealership if this one can't give you a straight answer and solve your problems.

 

Sounds worth the tiny outlay to get your own OBD tool.