They are screws not bolts and are easy enough to reach with a midsize screwdriver, and that is the only tool you need.
I can't remember now if they are ordinary Philips head or Torx (I think Philips), but either way easy to undo.
Just one tip - they are "captive" in the upper half of the airbox, no need to remove them completely and better if you don't, otherwise you risk dropping one in the bowels of the engine bay never to be seen again. Don't ask me how I know this!

 

Those are torx screws.
Follow this video... simple as a pie


P.S. - Raving the engine after is optional... and please when he gets to the stickers part... just close the browser

 

Best advice in the thread right here.

It's definitely a torx screw, I think it's a T20 but honestly you're best just getting a set of assorted sizes, they can be found very cheaply on Amazon.

 

 

Yep, glued for sure, no idea why anyone would do that!

 

Really? They glue them from factory!?
That's... kind of dumb

I thought that sitting in the hot sun eventually got that rubber to melt onto the lid... but damn... glued!?

 

One can never have too many tools, and you never have enough. I think the cheapest way to start is with one of those large mechanics kits at like $3-$500 as starting with a small set and adding individually over time actually gets quite expensive . The only bad thing about the kits is they tend to come with a crappy plastic toolbox which you will promptly throw away in favor of a rollaway tool cabinet chest with drawers. Some things to look for, avoid the low quality brands like Stanley and Harbor Fright because there is nothing more frustrating when you are in the middle of a job and your tool breaks. The high priced stuff like Snap-on is great for people who make their living with tools, but for the most part overkill for the weekend shade-tree mechanic. Mid-priced stuff is probably fine. Ratchets and sockets are the staple and that's where you want to think about performance. On ratchets, look for a fine toothed mechanism with a small swing-arc of like 5 to 7 degrees. Lots of tight spaces in a Jaguar engine bay where you can't swing a 15 degree ratchet. Also look for 6-point sockets instead of the more common 12-point sockets. Six point sockets are less likely to slip and round off hex-headed bolts. Obviously Jaguar is metric, but maybe you'll buy an American car eventually or need to assemble a toy at Christmas so its good to get both standard and metric sizes. Jaguar uses a lot of "torx" sockets so you might want to look for a kit that includes them or buy a set separately. Screwdrivers and pliers that come in these kits are pretty standard and basic. So I'd start with one of those kits and just add the special tools one at a time as you need them. Now with the internet and Amazon, lots of times you can get a special tool delivered the next day (or I even got a set of Starrett blades shipped all the way across country the same day once) so its not like you have to anticipate everything (I had my own private sort of "tool-of-the-month" club running for decades in anticipation of future project cars). Post back in a few years when you are ready to install that four-post lift in your garage and I'll tell you what to look for.

 

As an update, I changed my filters over the weekend and I can confirm is T20 torx screws.
Also, my old filters were not glued on ( thankfully ).

 

so k and n filters wont affect the engine in any way?
cant quote for sure but when i first got mine i wanted to put kandn filters but read that it'll mess with the engine etc etc. on another forum.

can anyone confirm?
thanks

 

There are lots of myths out there about K&N filters, but having used K&N on many cars including both my XFS and XFR the facts (at least for modern Jags and in my experience) are:
1. K&N do not flow any better than a clean stock paper filter so zero improvement in performance.
2. You may get a small increase in induction noise but usually so little it is barely detectable.
3. Some say that K&N don't filter very fine dust as well as stock paper but I never experienced that problem.
4. The main and arguably only potential problem with K&N is over-oiling, which can lead to filter oil deposits on the fine wires of the MAF sensors which then leads to poor idle, poor running etc. The solution is easy - don't over oil the filter(s), just a short fine spray is all they need. If you do over-oil them then they are easy to clean and the MAF sensors are also very easy to clean. One trap for young players is they don't realise that a new K&N comes pre-oiled and they oil it anyway resulting in excess oil.
My F-Type is the first Jag I have had on which I haven't used K&N filters, for two main reasons - no real advantage over stock, and they are a right royal PITA to change unlike XF filters which are a doddle to change.