Xf wheel bearings anyone had problems
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Xf wheel bearings anyone had problems
I'm starting to get a noise from what I think is a wheel bearing but it's very faint. I'm about to do a very long tour of Europe and don't want issues so my question is have many of you had bearing problems and back or front?
My xf has now done 90,000 miles
Many thanks
My xf has now done 90,000 miles
Many thanks
Member
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 63
Likes: 6
From: The North Pole
At 78k miles so far and no bearings changed.
If it's not the bearing it could be a worn out disc and/or pads causing the noise, but I suppose that's not the issue here.
If it's not the bearing it could be a worn out disc and/or pads causing the noise, but I suppose that's not the issue here.
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From: London
Changing the rear bearings
Well got to them at last.. a 2010 XF 91000 miles,
The biggest problems I had was corrosion in the hubs, the bearing had fused to the hubs and the retaining circlips were completely inmovable. The ally had corroded and made removing them a nightmare. The hubs are a very poor ally and corrode and are soft and easy damaged
striping them down
1) pop the wheel centres out and undo the drive shafts nuts, they came off easily surprisingly, 3/4 drive socket set and a 4’ bar
1a) Car up on axle stands and hand brake off
2) wheels off
3) caliper off, carrier off - strip it, it make it much easier putting it all back together.
4) disc off
5) undo the ABS sensor and remove from the top off the hub
6) soak every thing in penitrating oil
7) press the drive shaft out of the hub a little to get it moving, your need a good hub puller mine were well stuck
8) undo the hub retaining bolts, the top joint being the most difficult because it just spins, and while up can put a spanner on the square and to stop that, it’s not long enough to get the nut off the tread and keep the spanner on the square.. grips come to the rescue
9) remove the hub, pushing the drive shaft out the remaining way, after 10mm or so it should come out
10) remove the wheel flange. I used my press and broke it, so I reverted to the old hammer and socket method. Place on decent blocks and drift it out
11) remove circlip, wish you luck on that one.. luckerly the outer race came apart when removing the wheel hub, so I was able to tap the clip from both sides to loosen it in the grove. Ended up cutting it with my 3” grinder in a few places and taping from both sides rocked it out in pieces. Took a good hour of carefull cleaning and working it out so as not to damage the poor castings
12) bearing removal next, lots of oil, and. Pressed them out, using a old mini flywheel puller and lots of blocks with a hole in for the bearing to come out into and large large sockets each side - needed a decent press really
13) once out clean the ally hub
14) grease everything and tap the new bearing in MAKE SURE the MAGNETIC SIDE is facing the ABS SENSOR
15) fit circlip, hard but can be done, it’s a very very big strong circlip your normal circlip pliers may not work
16) using a press or threaded rood and socket, draw the wheel hub into the bearing, be carefull, do not bash it in or your bust the back of the bearing out. Again large sockets each side with the bar through the middle
17) fit back on Car
18) I used the drive shaft to pull the wheel hub in the last 8mm, worked well. I fitted the wheel, and blocked it so it could not true and did the drive shaft up through it. Note you can not fit the brake carriers back until the wheel flange is completely seated.
A easyish job made very difficult because of corrosion and a bugger of a circlip.
Took me 4-5 hours a side.
but boy is it quite now !,
The biggest problems I had was corrosion in the hubs, the bearing had fused to the hubs and the retaining circlips were completely inmovable. The ally had corroded and made removing them a nightmare. The hubs are a very poor ally and corrode and are soft and easy damaged
striping them down
1) pop the wheel centres out and undo the drive shafts nuts, they came off easily surprisingly, 3/4 drive socket set and a 4’ bar
1a) Car up on axle stands and hand brake off
2) wheels off
3) caliper off, carrier off - strip it, it make it much easier putting it all back together.
4) disc off
5) undo the ABS sensor and remove from the top off the hub
6) soak every thing in penitrating oil
7) press the drive shaft out of the hub a little to get it moving, your need a good hub puller mine were well stuck
8) undo the hub retaining bolts, the top joint being the most difficult because it just spins, and while up can put a spanner on the square and to stop that, it’s not long enough to get the nut off the tread and keep the spanner on the square.. grips come to the rescue
9) remove the hub, pushing the drive shaft out the remaining way, after 10mm or so it should come out
10) remove the wheel flange. I used my press and broke it, so I reverted to the old hammer and socket method. Place on decent blocks and drift it out
11) remove circlip, wish you luck on that one.. luckerly the outer race came apart when removing the wheel hub, so I was able to tap the clip from both sides to loosen it in the grove. Ended up cutting it with my 3” grinder in a few places and taping from both sides rocked it out in pieces. Took a good hour of carefull cleaning and working it out so as not to damage the poor castings
12) bearing removal next, lots of oil, and. Pressed them out, using a old mini flywheel puller and lots of blocks with a hole in for the bearing to come out into and large large sockets each side - needed a decent press really
13) once out clean the ally hub
14) grease everything and tap the new bearing in MAKE SURE the MAGNETIC SIDE is facing the ABS SENSOR
15) fit circlip, hard but can be done, it’s a very very big strong circlip your normal circlip pliers may not work
16) using a press or threaded rood and socket, draw the wheel hub into the bearing, be carefull, do not bash it in or your bust the back of the bearing out. Again large sockets each side with the bar through the middle
17) fit back on Car
18) I used the drive shaft to pull the wheel hub in the last 8mm, worked well. I fitted the wheel, and blocked it so it could not true and did the drive shaft up through it. Note you can not fit the brake carriers back until the wheel flange is completely seated.
A easyish job made very difficult because of corrosion and a bugger of a circlip.
Took me 4-5 hours a side.
but boy is it quite now !,
Last edited by hoylegj; Jul 19, 2018 at 07:00 AM.
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