Where can I get jacking pucks for a 2015 Jaguar XJL or are they even available?

 

Rsmith, you should not need jacking pucks for your car. I Have a standard 2-3/4 ton high lift floor jack and I have no issues jacking my car up to get under it.

A quick look and I don't see anyone selling them specifically for Jaguars in general. If you feel like you need something like that, then I have a feeling you are most likely going to need to get something for say a Corvette and then do the necessary modifications to make them stay on the Jag.

 

Rsmith, looking, I cannot find any "manufactured" lifting pucks for our cars. With that being said, I also did some youtube looking and found that most people are using something like say a 2x4 with a slot cut in it to place over the spot welded seam on the underside of the body. You can also cut a custom piece of wood to fit into the lifting point under the car. Some people even go as far as to take an actual hockey puck, drill a hole in the center to add an eyelet to allow them to slide it into a hole on the frame of the car so the hockey puck will not move. Then the hockey puck fits into the recess of your jack to ensure that nothing slides as you are lifting the car.

NOw, for the downsides. The wood blocks are cheap and easy to get your hands on. But, as with any wood, the grain of the wood is the weak link here. So, you need to make sure that the wood is placed in the correct orientation. In this case, you want the wood grain going side to side of the car (ie, the dark grain runs side to side, not front to back). This will minimize the chance of the wood spliting as it takes the weight of the car. As for the hockey puck, there is no grain. So, if you place a small item under/on top of the hockey puck, this will focus the weight of the car on to a very limited location and cause the puck to crack, possibly resulting in the car shifting.

As for getting a machined puck to fit into a slot on the underside of the car, I will have to look at mine and see what the options are. I am on travel, so, it will be a few days before I will be able to look at mine and see what the options are. But, you may want to look at the pucks sold for Corvettes and see if that might be something that would work for our cars.

 

I know its probably best to have a hockey puck, but I just did brakes on my 2011 XJL, and I used a combination Of jack stands and my rolling floor jack. I placed it right on the factory seam, at the jack pints, and no damage was done that I can see. The car was also in a flat garage and I went easy jacking it up. I do see the need for something's as I've jacked up my wife's audi so many times that the rail has been all bent to hell. But I went slow on the jag and kept an eye on it.

I should not that my floor jack has a few small slots in it that I was able to get around the flat rail and maybe that helped.

 

Slightly different car but I always use wood to help spread the load. (And did the same with previous cars.) Otherwise the actual contact points take all the weight (so, far more).

 

Did a brake job yesterday. These did the job great with some Harbor Freight daytona jacks:

 

You can and I had a set for my lift. But I have no problem just using the pinch welds using a flat lifting pad.
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FYI, you should not be lifting the car on the sides with a floor jack. Especially not a LWB car, and ESPECIALLY NOT one corner at a time. You'll twist and/or crack the frame. You should be lifting it in the front or back (or all at once with a lift, obviously). It even says this in the owner's manual.

 

How do we do this on the side of the road to remove a flat tire & put the donut on?
Are there two jacks in the trunk? Ours only has one scissor jack that I can find.
Or does that one scissor jack actually go in the middle of the bumper & support the whole front or back of the car?

 

I honestly don't know.

 

I honestly don't know.
The last time I had a flat tire I had to call a tow truck because my donut was also flat.
I'd have to check the manual again.

 

I used two floor jacks recently, one on either side. Did front and rear brakes this way. No issues at all. Don’t jack too high and try and keep it even and you’re fine. I’ve also jacked a corner to change a tire and it was fine. Again don’t jack so high you twist the body. Use common sense and it’ll be fine.

Not everyone has access to a lift and sometimes the work just has to get done. Im going to experiment using a long reach floor jack with a crossbeam attachment so that I dont need two jacks to lift a whole axle.

 

It’s fine to lift the specific corner to change a tire. It was designed to handle that. It’s not designed to handle an excessive twist from raising a corner crazy high. If you just lift enough to get the tire free from ground you won’t have any problems. Keep doors and lids closed for improved rigidity. I recently did this very thing on each corner to replace brakes and control arm boots. Not a big deal.

 

I agree with the above. I have used a floor jack on one corner many times and zero problems.
I have a 2 post lift and yes that is the way to go if possible.

This is old info but just in case I will post it again.
There are arrows cast into the plastic body work so you can position the jack in the right spot.
But they are very faint and at first I did not believe they were there until I got under the car!



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