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Daimler DD6 1997:
In the last month, my DD6 has not always started on the first turn of the ignition - the dashboard lights come on, the heater/AC fan comes on, but nothing from the engine.
After a few re-tries, pressing/de-pressing the brake pedal and moving the gear from P down to R, then D, and back up to P again, hey presto, it comes to life and the engine starts!
Just wondered if anyone had experienced this problem and what it could be about.
It can be a bit unnverving when it doesn't start after the first few attempts.
Cheers, nice weekend all!
Matt
A beginning point on starter trouble shooting is if the starter solenoid relay clicks or not
This breaks the problem into 2 basic parts
The Body processor Module must be satisficed after you hit the key that it sees certain things
Once it has meet it's requirements does the BPM provide a command ground closing the starter solenoid relay
Depending on if this relay clicks do you look at the other side of the system being the starter / solenoid assembly or the " battery heavy power " to it and the paths it gets there
The heating / A/C fan relays are inside the car , see the " LWB " PDF at the very bottom of the post , page 18 for the left and right blower motor relays just below the passengers seat
The large A/C compressor clutch relay up front under the bonnet has the same part # and can be used as a starter solenoid relay swapping option
This is on page 17 of the " LWB " PDF
We will be using this document below to resolve your issue mainly on page 48 for your V - 12 :
You can double click it for a better picture
The inline 6 and V - 12 starting systems are similar but there are some differences
On the V - 12 the linier switch which is a long switch assembly above the floor pan on the right side of the shift lever
A recent picture from Oliver Marks on his V - 12 as the long black rectangler box
The " P " light itself comes from the Mode switch which is a small micro switch that is not needed in the starter circuit but corresponds to the same gear shift lever position
You will see it as the 4 wires pigtail coming from it
The 2 fuses for the starter solenoid relay are the power # 3 / 26 amp left engine fuse box witch is hot at all times . And the # 12 / 10 amp right engine fuse box which relys on the right engine fuse box relay ( ignition positive relay ) to close . You can swap this one with the left engine fuse box relay because in reality it is the horn
Page 66 of the Wiring Guide
The brake switch in the schematic is on the brake pedal as there are 2 brake switches on the pedal as one package with 4 wires with connector CA72 , reference page 78 . This is also used in the cruise control
Thinking
Last edited by Parker 2; Mar 15, 2021 at 10:11 PM.
A beginning point on starter trouble shooting is if the starter solenoid relay clicks or not
This breaks the problem into 2 basic parts
The Body processor Module must be satisficed after you hit the key that it sees certain things
Once it has meet it's requirements does the BPM provide a command ground closing the starter solenoid relay
Depending on if this relay clicks do you look at the other side of the system being the starter / solenoid assembly or the " battery heavy power " to it and the paths it gets there
The heating / A/C fan relays are inside the car , see the " LWB " PDF at the very bottom of the post , page 18 for the left and right blower motor relays just below the passengers seat
The large A/C compressor clutch relay up front under the bonnet has the same part # and can be used as a starter solenoid relay swapping option
This is on page 17 of the " LWB " PDF
We will be using this document below to resolve your issue mainly on page 48 for your V - 12 :
You can double click it for a better picture
The inline 6 and V - 12 starting systems are similar but there are some differences
On the V - 12 the linier switch which is a long switch assembly above the floor pan on the right side of the shift lever
A recent picture from Oliver Marks on his V - 12 as the long black rectangler box
The " P " light itself comes from the Mode switch which is a small micro switch that is not needed in the starter circuit but corresponds to the same gear shift lever position
You will see it as the 4 wires pigtail coming from it
The 2 fuses for the starter solenoid relay are the power # 3 / 26 amp left engine fuse box witch is hot at all times . And the # 12 / 10 amp right engine fuse box which relys on the right engine fuse box relay ( ignition positive relay ) to close . You can swap this one with the left engine fuse box relay because in reality it is the horn
Page 66 of the Wiring Guide
The brake switch in the schematic is on the brake pedal as there are 2 brake switches on the pedal as one package with 4 wires with connector CA72 , reference page 78 . This is also used in the cruise control
Thinking
See also this v short video of the microswitch by the gearshift in action, you should hear the relay click as it engages (no noise here, I was just looking at the interaction having tweaked the little connector prong out)
By removing 2 of the 4 bolts on one side of the transmission crossmember and only backing off the other 2 on the other side ( keeping the threads engaged as a locator ) you can place a jack under the transmission and tilt the engine back
At least on the inline 6
Raise the hood first as the front of the engine will rise
With the exhaust system loose you can do this if it aids in assembly
Last edited by Parker 2; Mar 24, 2021 at 11:00 PM.
Is the new starter solenoid a black colored Bosch stamped manufacture with a certain part number ?
There is a split in the sheet metal where the right quarter panel meets the metal going across to the left side underneath the black plastic wiper mechanism cover
This split can leak rain water onto the ECU connector used in the starter circuit , easy silicon reseal
The cover screws are plastic and break , pernitrate spray first
You may be dried out after the rain which also may be a correlation with possible water ingression of the security module connectors through the fuel filler cap well when the drain line clogs . Someone found their well cracked or damage and then the seal of the well as it fills to the upper car skin can be imperfect
Easy connectors to check are the Papa Indy 1 and on the opposite left side of the engine the Papa Indy 63 . both have started circuit wires running through them
Papa Indy 1 pin position # 2 Green Circle ( green / black ) wire
Papa Indy 1 pin position # 4 Blue circle ( white / pink ) wire
Papa Indy 63 pin position # 5 Red circle ( red / blue ) wire
Papa Indy 63 pin position # 9 Orange circle ( light green / black ) wire
The RS3 connector below the inertia / crash switch pin # 11 Purple circle ( green / black ) wire , this is the same 48 pin type connector as the trunk BT4 so not easy to deal with but where I had a defect and bad connection
And then we get to the large 48 pin connector above your fuel tank . This connector ( BT4 ) can be a pain to reconnect . There is a layer of sheet metal cutout that the connector settles down in , On my BT4 the cutout was off centered and hitting the connector halves edges not allowing it to reconnect easily
Last edited by Parker 2; Mar 30, 2021 at 12:58 AM.