Recently brought my 04 XJR out of storage and started my spring shake down. Last fall I noticed my front brakes were getting low so I ordered pads and rotors in replaced them. All in all the job took around an hour.


Immediately after start up the car has the ABS light, traction control lights both on as well as DSC not available and cruise control not available.


Removed the terminals on the battery, cleaned and reinstalled to reset calibration. Still no change. Took the car for a drive and still no change.


Is there something I am missing.

 

Starting to wonder if I knocked off a wheel sensor.... Going to pull off the wheels to double check all of the connections for the abs.

 

Those are all classic signs of a low/faulty battery. Was it attached to a tender during storage?

 

I was thinking the same thing. I had to jump start the car but I drove it 10 miles in a loop before I began the service. No light or warning then other than the Cruise control not available.


Finished the front brakes and two lights on plus the other message. Battery is only 2 years old and is an Interstate.

 

Heading back to the shop to inspect the front end incase I knocked off a wire or something simple. Seems the logical place to begin.

 

Battery is still a prime candidate, 10 minute drive may not have been sufficient.

But, I had the same experience changing the brakes on my wife's 2004 XJ8 and it turned out one of the ABS wheel sensors/wires had a short in it. Apparently I accidentally crimped it somehow or perhaps it was about to fail and it only took a nudge for it to completely fail. I bought a used one for $40 and it's still working great two years later.

 

Yes and now an check engine light plus restricted performance. I took appart the air intake and looked for dirt. In the process I dropped the tube which held the mass air flow censor.


Going to look for codes in the am.

 

Will also look at live data and see what if the wheel speeds are all in sinc. Perhaps that will point me in the right direction. If the wheel speeds are in check I will then test the battery.

 

What procedure did you use to adjust the calipers with brake pads to fit on the new rotors?

 

Hi DAFF,

An interruption or loss of signal from a wheel speed sensor will cause all of the warnings you've reported since ABS, TC, DSC and CC all rely on wheel speed inputs, and while not well documented in the manuals, problems with wheel speed sensors can lead to the Restricted Performance warning.

If your shop has a scanner that can read Chassis (C-prefix) codes, you'll have a code flagged that will point you to the specific wheel speed sensor.

That doesn't mean low battery voltage isn't a contributing factor.

Cheers,

Don

 

I think the restricted performance is from dropping the mass air flow sensor on the ground. Since, there is also a check engine light. Which was never an issue on the test drive until after I dropped it.


Hopping my scanner can get a live data stream of wheel speeds. This will definitely point me in the right direction. My thoughts are if the wheel speeds are getting recorded by the computer chances are the battery is to blame. I just have a hard time believing the battery theory because of the age of mine and how it reads perfect with analog testing equipment. Perhaps I should just take it in and have them bench test it with a higher quality computer circuit testing device.


Under the hood I did find a blown 30amp fuse in the fuse cluster attached to the ABS brake controller. It was on the bottom RHS looking down from the front bumper. I did replace it but didn't see any changes wrt warning lights on the guage cluster.

 

The battery was discharged to the point that a jump start was required. That's a smoking gun right there.

 

Dropping the MAFS can't help, but several of the wheel speed sensor faults will also trigger the CEL, so that is consistent with your other symptoms. To give one example, if C1145 is flagged by the DSCM due to a wheel speed sensor circuit problem, not only will the ABS/TC/DSC systems be disabled, but the CEL will also be illuminated if the fault persists.

It would definitely be a good idea to have the battery load- and conductance-tested. The relative youth of the battery is no assurance that it is performing properly, especially after sitting for so long being depleted by the car's quiescent current drain. However, in my experience with our '04 XJR and several other X350s, when diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) are flagged due to low battery voltage, there will be spurious codes in multiple systems, rather than multiple codes in only one related group of systems. ABS, TC, DSC and CC are all interconnected, which makes it far more likely that there really is a fault that affects the entire system chain.

You just replaced the front brake pads and rotors and now have symptoms consistent with an issue with a wheel speed sensor or its wiring harness. The wheel speed sensors fit into the back of the hubs and their wiring harness is close to where you removed the calipers to replace the rotors. It would be very easy to bump the wiring and either partially dislodge the sensor or stress the wiring. Scanning the DTCs will probably steer you in the right direction.

That is the Front Power Distribution Fuse Box, and it is not associated with the ABS alone. It contains fuses and relays associated with many other circuits. It would be worth looking up the fuse that was blown to know what circuit had an excess current draw. I think the fuses are identified in the Owner's Manual.

Cheers,

Don

 

An update .....




Removed the battery and brought it to my auto supplier for a total analysis and it was perfect. Still havent found a local independent who could get into the computer for live data or read codes. I thought this was odd but we live in a region of mostly North American vehicles.






I wonder if dirt or something on the inside of the wheel bearing became dislodged during the R and R of the front brakes and has interrupted the signal on that corner. Causing the ABS to go into limp mode like it is. Going to pull the ABS leads and check for continuity and clean the internal sensor if possible. From there its off to the Jaguar store if the problems persist.....

 

Turns out the 30 amp fuse which was blown was the F32... Rear parking brake, the plot thickens.

 

You can clean the outsides of the sensors with a soft brush and brake cleaner spray and clean their electrical connectors with brake cleaner or zero-residue electrical contact cleaner, but the reluctor wheels are inside the hubs and not really accessible. You can use a battery terminal brush to clean the bores in the hubs where the sensors fit, but try not to push corrosion or dirt into the hub.

The easiest way to check each sensor and its wiring harness is to test the resistance of each sensor's circuit at the Dynamic Stability Control Module connector. The connector pins for each sensor are shown on pdf page 73 of the Electrical Guide, which you can download here:

2004 Jaguar X350 Electrical Guide

While you are measuring the resistance through each sensor, flex and wiggle the wiring harness between the sensor and the point where it is tied to the body and watch the meter for any signs of a sudden loss of continuity, which indicates a break in the wiring.

Cheers,

Don

 

Pulled off the sensor on the LHS and checked it over. Everything looked perfect. Inside the bearing clean and pristine. Moved over to the driver side loosing hope, pulled the clip off the back side of the bearing and removed the sensor wire. Clean again....


Well I guess its time to pull the wires and check them over for resistance. Then the issue becomes all too clear, its hard to get wheel speed readings when the wire is pinched and grounding out on the underside of the caliper bolt. So frustrating to have a simple issue cause so much grief. Ordered the MAF $145 and a new ABS wire $210 which will arrive in the AM.


Hoping the codes will clear themselves over the next day of driving after the reinstall. I hope the dead short didn't cause any further fuses to blow. Will double check them in the afternoon.

 

Getting there. .. all that's left us Cruise control not available. ..

this is a separate issue due to an old code before I started working on the front brakes. I read about a connection under the front vaLance . Any insight or ideas are welcomed

 

Pulled the plug on the sonar on the front bumper. The pins looked perfect om the plug but I didn't go any further. The dash will stay bank till I hit 3HPH or so then the yellow light aluminates and the cruise control unavailable comes on.

 

Does this car have standard cruise or adaptive cruise? That makes a big difference to the potential problems...