Good Afternoon All;

Does anyone know if there's a common cause for failure in this pump? Is it serviceable/rebuildable, or just not worth the effort? (You can tell I'm getting very bored and scratching around for a project in these Covid times) Thanks in advance.

RSN

 

Just age and time. Replace it. If short on money maybe take a chance with a used one off EBay?
I would go new.
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Yeah, def just replace it, the original Jag one is not cheap, but there are non genuine alternatives, I just went for the genuine Jag part C2C6517

 

I bought a Bosch pump from Amazon to replace mine. I had already replaced the brushes and then it started leaking. I think it was about £55 but it is one of those it almost the same. The rubber mount comes off the old pump and can be put on the new one but what I found was the outlets on the new pump were a little bigger making pipe fitting very difficult. So I took the top off the old pump and refitted it to the new one, jobs a goodun.

 

I have rebuilt 2 of these with new brushes. As long as the flat o ring is not compromised all will be good as new...

 

Have not heard of anyone using the Bosch pump for the AUX coolant pump?
Only for the SC inter-cooler pump.

Where did you get the brushes?
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I have to look at the bag. I have the part number listed on it.

 

I just did this replacement (as many have), it's pretty easy, just need to remove the expansion tank and be careful pulling out the securing clips from some of the hoses (one of mine shot out and hit the other side of my garage with a 'ping!'). I suspected the old pump had failed (140k miles) because the cabin heat was not zero but pretty weak. Upon removing it it registered ~ 1,500 ohms of resistance across the terminals (have to think a pump should be near zero ohms). While the car's not back to health (I was rewarded for my teardown and replacement of the cooling system hoses, belts and supercharger snout with a P2135 sending it into limp mode) for the brief time I ran it this weekend the heat was back on. Good luck. - scooter

 

I think standard is under 8 ohms. When I rebuilt mine I measured 3.9 ohms after a test run on direct 12 volts.

Yea, I'm surprised you even got an ohm reading - when I resistance tested mine, it registered OL. Upon opening one of the brushes was kaput and worn to the shaft.

 

I'm thinking I'll take mine apart and have a look before deciding to rebuild/replace. It's not like a short-lived repair will leave me stranded somewhere, and I have reasonable cabin heat as it is. I would not risk being down for an extended period normally, as it would take a few days for a new part to arrive (if that's the route I go) but it's so GODDAMN cold here right now that the Leaper just shivers if I even open the garage door. Mr. J seems quite happy to let the Jeep do all the driving for now and, like I said, I'm bored!

 

Don't mean to piggy back but was looking into this after noticing my jaggy doesnt heat. The best it gets is warm but mostly luke warm.
Checked the fuse, it was blown. Replaced it and it too was blown.

Getting a quote.

 

Excessive current flow at the fuse pretty much points to a pump problem. With the thermostats set to the same temp on both sides, equally tepid air temp would suggest a faulty air-blend door or a restricted heater core. Lower temp on the left side no matter what pretty much indicates a pump problem, and a blowing fuse just confirms that. Good luck. I haven't got to mine yet; the poor old lower back is still recovering from the last few hours I spent bent over the engine compartment detailing.

SN

 

Should of updated sooner but yesterday I took it to firestone and while they were mounting tires they took care of the aux pump. I paid extra because it was not scheduled but was quoted $200 by a european specialist just needed it done as we're having a bit of a snow storm in Texas right now.
I used a new aftermarket Dorman 902-090 from amazon. It is working and has restored my heater.