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Differential FAILURE - need p/ns! gears busted, broke a half shaft
UPDATE - had the TRANSMISSION FAILURE lights all come on.
Dealer said Differential failed, broken bits, then snapped a half shaft.
Dealer quoted: $5,100 new diff, $2k driveshaft, $1k halfshaft, $1.2k labor
NEED used P/N HELP !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Original diff has the following codes:
C2C31233 per VIN from the dealer
2W93-4A213-AA stamped on differential casting
but there is a sticker, worn off, with a 3rd p/n. Not sure what it means.
Internet search shows it could be
2101031424A
0104030639A
B0109032035A
Anyone know the differences? Different dealers tell me different p/ns???
Glad it is not the transmission, a differential will surely be easier and cheaper to replace.
As to different part numbers from different dealers, many times the part numbers are “superceded” by other part numbers, but the actual part is the same. It is just how they number it in their system. I had the same issue when shopping for a roof rack. I got 3-4 part numbers from different dealers, but the actual part was the same. They said back then they were in the process of updating part numbers. The dealer should be able to tell you which part is needed based on the VIN.
Last edited by chillyphilly; Feb 28, 2018 at 05:17 PM.
Thanks all. I ordered a differential from TX on eBay, $250 deliviered w/6mo warranty. 64k miles on the donor. Founda a half shaft in Rancho Cordova for $125. Or abot 5% of what the dealer wanted to charge me.
NOTE: the latest model differential from the dealer has different adapter for the driveshaft, requiring a new driveshaft ($2k). Since I'm using a used diff I won't need a new driveshaft.
Thanks all. I ordered a differential from TX on eBay, $250 deliviered w/6mo warranty. 64k miles on the donor. Founda a half shaft in Rancho Cordova for $125. Or abot 5% of what the dealer wanted to charge me.
NOTE: the latest model differential from the dealer has different adapter for the driveshaft, requiring a new driveshaft ($2k). Since I'm using a used diff I won't need a new driveshaft.
Are you certain that it's not just a broken constant velocity (CV) joint in the half-axle?
Cheers,
Don
It does seem like the CV would be the weakest link and could be damaged as well as the half shaft. It may or may not be better than a transmission failure. Replacement of driveline/suspension components can add up in parts fast. Since the differential is being replaced it is a good time to check out the bushings and shocks (since the age of components may be more detrimental than the mileage). If you are doing the work yourself pictures would be great. Either way at least you know what happened. Good luck.
It does seem like the CV would be the weakest link and could be damaged as well as the half shaft. It may or may not be better than a transmission failure. Replacement of driveline/suspension components can add up in parts fast. Since the differential is being replaced it is a good time to check out the bushings and shocks (since the age of components may be more detrimental than the mileage). If you are doing the work yourself pictures would be great. Either way at least you know what happened. Good luck.
Good point to check all the bushings while you are at it.
When I took out my differential, to install a Quaiff LSD, I discovered that a number of bushings were on their way out so did them all while I was at it.
Taking out the differential was not that hard at all.
Installing the Quaiff not so easy!
What's a Quaiff LSD ??
Nielo Jag in Sacramento is doing the work, about $1100 in labor.
Driveshaft did NOT fail. It would need to be updated ONLY if using a new diff (which has an updated bolt pattern for new driveshafts only).
Yes, half shaft snapped. Also, no fwd/rev or hold in park. Diff fluid had bits of metal. The side with the good half shaft just free wheels, so diff internals are shot.
Dealer cleard TRANS fault codes, and is 99% sure trans is OK.
I'm getting the broke diff to take home and take apart - to see if it's a casting failure - then I'll contact the regional jag person.
OK, car is back from the dealer, runs great - again. 2006 VDP.
I bought used parts (delivered, 6 mos insurance) off of eBay for:
$275 diff w/64k mi, 2 half shafts complete w/boots $300, 1 driveshaft $175.
I asked Nielo Sacramento Jag to replace worn bushings, but reuse bolts/nuts unless cracked - they wanted $35 per bolt or nut for new ones.
Dealer labor $1306. So overall I saved $10k over what the dealer asked....
Problem - this turns out to be the second diff failure in this car at 112k miles. We bought it w/55k miles and the diff was already updated to the new one (dealer did not catch this until it was being re-assembled - so I needed to get an original driveshaft).
I'll be contacting Jag national service about this. SOOOO.. not right.
I took home the old parts, will open the diff this weekend to see if it's really broken.
Yes, the driver side half shaft is broken. Will take some pics.
Special Warnings - Original driveshaft will NOT mate to a new diff.
Original half shafts will NOT mate to a new diff.
Look closely at estimate for VERY expense nuts and bolts ($35 ea !!).
Trans Control Unit codes can ONLY be cleared by JSV laptop - not the handheld unit.
From what I see, there has been 2 diff updates since 2006.
Dealer filled the diff w/hypoid oil. I remember Ford requiring a very expensive lubricant to be added to high perf diffs - I wonder if this is missing in Jag's procedures?
Photos are here. I have not opened up the diff yet (when turned by hand, no noises, just a little lash in the pinion to ring, NO noises, both sides turn as expected.
WHOA - look at the 1 broken bolt from the diff hanger !!! It's rusted half way through, then broken. Since the car had the diff replaced already, I'm going to call Jag on the carpet for over torquing this bolt and/or a defective bolt. Broken, cracked, defective, over torqued differential carrier bolt installed by Jag. 2006 VDP
Newer style driveshaft to diff dampener, 1 broken bolt for diff carrier.