2007 SuperV8. Thought I would tackle the rear brakes this weekend. It's a nice day, not too cold, sunny, why not?

I followed these instructions:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ice-how-61323/

Got everything taken off, but the calipers won't come off the rotors. The calipers are clamped down on the rotors and the whole thing comes off the hub in one piece. Cannot get the calipers off.

I'm stuck.

And to make things worse, I figured I'll put it all back together and take it to my indy on Monday. Now I can't get the caliper bolts to line up with the caliper. It's off about 1/2" so I can't even get the damned thing back together again.

I'm stuck.

Any help/suggestions I can try on Sunday? Otherwise, I'll have to get it towed - not sure I can drive it with the caliper rattling around.

 

Is the EPB released?

 

Yeah as far as I can tell. The car will roll in neutral.

 

There's four bolts total. Two the hold the caliper to the bracket, the other two hold the bracket to the car.

Did you take them off in the correct sequence? This would mean that the caliper slides off the rotor (possibly requiring a bit of force) while the bracket remains behind.

 

There is probably a lip on the outer edge of the old discs as the pads tend not to wear the disc here. It normally rusts so some light tapping with a hammer knocks off the lip allowing the caliper and pads to come off. If you're keeping the old discs in place, just don't be too heavy with the hammer !

 

Thanks guys. It's at my indy now.

Fraser - I did try hammering it off and prying it off the rotor (replacing the rotor anyway), but no luck.

Mikey - I think I may have done the bracket bolts first, which is probably how I got into this mess in the first place....

 

anindyam,

Worst case, if the lip on the rotors Fraser mentioned is significant enough, you may need to pry the pads apart to create sufficient clearance to get the caliper to slide off of the rotor. But to pry the pads apart, you need to open the caliper bleed screw because the brake fluid will not compress to allow the pads to move. First fit a piece of rubber tubing to the nipple on the caliper bleed screw, aim the other end into a suitable container as though you were going to bleed the brakes, then open the bleed screw and, if necessary using a suitable prying tool, force the pads apart enough that the caliper will come off the rotor. Close the bleed screw before proceeding, and don't forget to bleed the caliper and top up the brake fluid once you've replaced the brake parts.

Cheers,

Don

 

He may have issues trying to pry the caliper open like a standard caliper. Remember that these are "screw in" pistons, and would probally not beable to pry them back into the caliper. After he removes the 2 caliper bolts (not the bracket bolts) the caliper should slide off without the pads. Hence the lip should not play a part of resistance. If the E brake cable is not removed, that could cause some resistance. We never did hear if the E brake was off/released. These calipers are a swing away type, and are the easiest to change pads. Unlike older calipers where the pads have to come off with the caliper, and past the "wear lip", which many times required prying the piston back into the housing.

 

What was worse, was getting drums off with knackered up worn out adjusters. The hammer had to be used and the drum was usually toast after that. Those were the days.

 

Thanks guys. You guys and this forum is awesome. I only wish my wish my wife would drive the minivan while I try to fix these things on my own. But it's at the Indy getting taken care of now. At least he's putting on my supplied rotors/pads.

Someone asked if the EPB was off: yes, the car will roll in neutral, so I have to assume so. Someone also mentioned releasing the EPB cable - that's something I wish I could've tried - probably would've been able to correct the situation then. Oh well, next time.

Also, my Indy tells me that my SuperV8 brakes are NOT Brembos, which surprised me. I thought they would be given the beast has the Supercharged motor. Anybody want to buy my unused XJR pads? ;-)

 

If the EPB is operating properly, removing the cable won't release it any additional amount AFAIK.

 

The reason your Super V8 is not Brembo, is that they stopped installing them after 2005. My 04 has Brembos.

 

When changing the rear rotors I just split the EPB caliper.
Leave the caliper mounting bracket in place then remove the 2 Torx bolts fro the EPB body and split the caliper

Once the main caliper is off the rotor can be removed along with the second EPB pad.

Prior to install the new rotor wind back the EPB caliper. The rest is the reverse of the above

Cheers
34by151

 

So just to tie this thread off, got the car back from my indy today, all is well. He said he had to use the software to put the epb into "service mode" and then had to use a pry bar to get the caliper off the disc. He also said, as sometime above pointed out, that from 2007, Jaguar didn't use Brembos anymore.

 

I swapped all 4 rotors and pads yesturday and found that the rear wheels only spun to the drive shaft/ transmission knock (if that makes sense and I now know it's because of the non slip rear diff).

It would appear that I didn't turn off the EPB the first time and had to reconnect everything to start the car to check the EPB and turn it off correctly before being able to remove the calipers.

Once the EPB was off though, removing all the parts were easy.

I found that the 125ft Lb 15mm nuts were the hardest to undo and then retighten.

I found the 2 rotor disk locking washers a pain to remove.

When screwing the rear pistons in (clockwise) the grooves had to be lined up with the nipple on the brake pad or else you were going to have trouble attaching the caliper again.

I had to use a syringe to remove brake fluid from the master cylinder to stop overflowing.

You can't do a complete brake bleed and flush on your own if you don't have special equipment.