Leaking steering rack boots...how bad?
I noticed some noise from my power steering this week when it was cold. Like the pump was working hard. I checked the fluid and it is low (enough I figured that was the issue). I got the car into my shop today to check it over, as I guessed I was losing fluid somewhere for it to be that low. I noticed both boots on the steering rack where leaking a bit, and then noticed they were both torn at the far end. I can slide the whole boot inward. They are torn right by the clamp. On the passenger side, a significant amount of fluid came out when I slid the boot inward. I am guessing that is not ok. Does this mean I need to get my rack rebuilt? Is there anything I can do myself to fix this?
Thanks for the advice...
2004 XJR with 99,000.
Dave
Thanks for the advice...
2004 XJR with 99,000.
Dave
Those boots are not seals, but rather the dust covers. Leaking internal seals, with fluid entering the boots, are the normal sign of a worn out rack. If you caught it early, though, you may just have ruined seals because of the bad boots, and the rack itself could be alright.
Hmm, I though the racks were assembled with oil inside the boots to lube the inner ball joint. So a split boot will let the oil out. So put on some new boots.
However, a seal subject to pressure could have failed, of course.
However, a seal subject to pressure could have failed, of course.
Moreover, since both sides seem to be leaking, the rack is likely worn out. But there is always a chance he caught it early...
Last edited by cjd; Apr 12, 2014 at 07:17 PM.
So let's say the seals are bad. Can try be replaced by me? The steering does not seem bad. Other than leaking, what else would I notice on a worn out rack?
I can't seem to find new boots, but I did find new inner tie rods for sale. I know the outer tie rods should be replaced. I'll do that wth this repair. I found a rebuilt rack for $325. That gets me new inner tie rods and boots ( and seals). Am I better off just doing that?
For now I'm just going to fill it up with new fluid and drive until I get all the parts gathered.
I can't seem to find new boots, but I did find new inner tie rods for sale. I know the outer tie rods should be replaced. I'll do that wth this repair. I found a rebuilt rack for $325. That gets me new inner tie rods and boots ( and seals). Am I better off just doing that?
For now I'm just going to fill it up with new fluid and drive until I get all the parts gathered.
How does the steering feel? Is it precise and crisp or does it feel wooly and wander a little?
Thats how I'd suggest that it may show itself, but others will hopeully chime in and advise.......
Thats how I'd suggest that it may show itself, but others will hopeully chime in and advise.......
A good rack rebuilder may be able to replace the seals. You might call Coventry West (Coventry West - Jaguar and Land Rover Parts) since they rebuild racks for earlier Jags.
Cheers,
Don
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That $325 price for a rebuilt rack sounds fair. I think I paid Coventry West about $300 for a rebuilt for our '93.
Cheers,
Don
Drb, if dirt has killed the rack, the bushings will have play. If you grab the tie rod as close to the rack as you can and push the shaft up and down, then you will feel play if the bushings are worn. It should have no noticeable play between the rack shaft and the housing,
I have not had the pleasure of trying to rebuild the rack for this Jag. Other Jags I have rebuilt had to have the rack removed from the housing to replace the seals. It sounds like finding parts may be an issue too. If you can get a replacement for $325, I would lean towards just replacing it, if it were mine. Don't exchange your old rack as a core, though, until you are satisfied that the new one works well...just in case.
I have not had the pleasure of trying to rebuild the rack for this Jag. Other Jags I have rebuilt had to have the rack removed from the housing to replace the seals. It sounds like finding parts may be an issue too. If you can get a replacement for $325, I would lean towards just replacing it, if it were mine. Don't exchange your old rack as a core, though, until you are satisfied that the new one works well...just in case.
after it blew up with their product in it. No questions asked.
If you can find a local rebuilder that might be your best bet
since you have a known good core.
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