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While waiting for suspension parts to arrive, it's time to see what's up with my turn signal.
Both the Right turn signal and the Right repeater signal (little one behind the right wheel on the side of the car) do not work.
Bulbs are good.
Undid and cleaned grounds behind right headlight.
Checking with a multi-meter, there is no power to either plug. Scanning with IDS, I see two codes:
B1504: Right turn signal lamp - circuit open
B0237: Front right repeater lamp output - circuit failure
Couple of questions:
Is there a relay somewhere that both of these circuits travel through?
What else is on this circuit? If there is something else on this path that's working, that's a very different story than if everything on this path is dead.
Anyone recommend checking for other codes, or reflashing modules in this instance?
The running light on the right side doesn't (position 1 on the headlight switch (0 is off))
This nonsense with the turn signals started a few weeks before I parked it for a month or so. Driving around, one minute the signal worked, the next it didn't. I figured it was a blown bulb, and it took me a few days to get to switching it out and finding that it didn't help.
Yeah. Figure 8.02 in the electrical guide looks like it shows that the only relays are for the headlights and fogs. And that's all working. I'm not an EE though, so I'd appreciate it if someone else could look at the diagram and let me know if I'm missing something.
As mentioned in the original post, I tested continuity and the repeater and the turn signal are not getting any power. That's the issue I need to address. Besides corrosion in one socket likely wouldn't knock out three different circuits, right? No, it's acting like a common power or common ground is bad.
Tomorrow morning, when it's not 130 degrees in the garage, I'll attempt running jumper cables from the battery and seeing if I can get any info out of testing from the battery (known good ground) to the harness.
Here's what I'm thinking, please let me know if I'm off base: I presume the system is switched on positive, not negative. I should be able to check resistance from battery (negative) to socket (negative) and see that I'm near 0 Ohm. Then I can switch back to checking voltage and probe battery (negative) to socket (positive) with the turn signal activated and see if that gives me a reading.
I don't see anything in IDS for flashing a FEM, so I guess it's one of the modules that is plug and play replaceable...
I understand where you are coming from regarding temp in the garage!!
I had some excellent forum help troubleshooting a similar problem thanks to 34by151.
Power should always be present at the lamp with your ignition switched on.
These lamps are switched by the FEM by connecting the lamp to ground through the FEM.
==> Given your observation that you have no power at the problem lamps.....
Electrical Diagram Fig 08.2 shows pwr for the Fr, RH turn signal (B1504) supplied by 68s, pwr for the Fr, RH repeater (B2037) supplied by 69s. Fig 1.06 shows these supplied through Fuse F25 (pass fuse box) by Switched System Pwr Relay 2. This relay also shows to provide pwr to the following: Passive anti-Theft System xver, Fr LH and RH side marker lamps, Interior LH and RH vanity mirror lamps, Interior courtesy and map lamps, and the garage door opener.
If these other systems are also inoperative it sounds like a fuse or Relay 2 issue; otherwise a wiring/continuity issue between the fuse box and the problem lamps
Let us know how the troubleshooting goes. Best Regards, William
lol, thanks, that's good advice! Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts do...
Derp, fuse F25 is blown. I'll pick up more and hopefully that fixes it. Kinda feel silly doing all this diagnostic crap before finding that out, but whatever.
Wow, William, where were you earlier?!? I had this thread open for awhile and was just responding to Chris's smart comment and I saw your post after I posted that I'd found the issue.
You were absolutely spot on! I don't have a manual, but I finally found a listing of the fuses in another thread and when I saw all the stuff F25 does, I ran out and checked the visors and sure enough they were out!
Oddly though, I don't think my garage door opener runs through this, because that's how I got in the garage last time I pulled in, and my signal had been out for a few days.
Oh well, my wife is out at the store, so I asked her to grab some 10A blade fuses. I'll see what happens when she gets home.
Now the real fun begins. There may be other forum members with experience whom can offer better advice but I suggest getting back as close as you can to where F25 splits (distributes power), isolate each of the legs, and measure resistance to ground. When you find the offending leg you will need to separate it at various points until you isolate where the short is.
Use the Fig 01.6 "Harness In-Line Connectors" table and the Fig 01.6 schematic to see how F25 is distributed. Pwr is distributed at ECS10 (5 orange wires) and appropriate probing points would be BF1-pin7, EC1-pin22 (from Fig 01.6) and EC6-pin8, EC31-pin1 (from Fig 08.2).
If you're having difficulty understanding the schematics be sure to study the few "User Instruction" pages found right after the Component Index.
Let us know how things progress.
The searching I've done has turned up a few instances of the overhead console somehow shorting out (in one case a wire was physically bridged, somehow. ??) So maybe I'll start there. But maybe it's hot enough that I'll ignore the car, and/or it will spontaneously combust on its own accord. In any event, it will be a few days at least until I can start digging in. I'm not looking forward to tearing into the interior in this weather. It's sweaty work, and I can't just jump in the pool to cool off and get back in the car, now can I?
I'm getting more familiar with reading these wiring diagrams, so that's a plus. Thanks for the tip for where to start looking. I greatly appreciate it!
I'll update once I get a chance to start messing with it, but it might not be until Tuesday.
The reason I ask is that the fuse is not only blown, but removed, and yet the garage door opener works and the overhead console also works.
But get this: the right maplight takes three clicks to cycle every time. Off, Off, On. Off, Off, On. Every time. the middle button that turns on the whole interior system, on, off, on, off. the left (driver's) map light, on, off, on, off. WTF IS UP WITH THAT?
Garage door openers work fine.
Like I said, F25 is not only blown, but removed!
Do I have a factory freak? Is there a different diagram for the 2006 MY that I can reference?
HELP, I just want my damn turn signal to work so I can move on to the other problems I have!
Turn signals and interior lighting don't share the same fuses. See below for the 2006 MY wiring. Turn signals are fused via the passenger junction block (inside vehicle), lighting is via the rear junction block (trunk). I have similar issues with the map light buttons, infrequent use seems to require multiple presses to work.
Front left repeater is on pass F90 (10A), front right repeater is on pass F25 (10A). Upper console courtesy, garage door opener (not shown in schematics below), and map lights are on rear F11 (5A).
Perhaps I'm reading the schematics wrong but the diagram labeled 'Interior Lighting' shows the vanity mirror lamps powered by 70S and 71S which the schematic labeled 'Passenger Fuse Block' shows powered through F25. The other interior lighting does show powered through the Rear fuse block. A difference I see between the 2014 vs 2016 MY schematics is where the node 72S ( roof console and garage door opener ) is powered.
oilstain;
The 2016 MY schematics mhamilton provided still shows passenger fuse black, F25 powering multiple circuits: 66S - 71S. It seems odd that this fuse was missing. Are the other F25 circuits powered: 66S LH Front side marker, 67S RH front side marker, 68S RH Headlamp assembly side/turn, 69S RH turn signal repeater, 70S LH vanity mirror lamp, 71S RH vanity mirror lamp. I'm wondering if all these F25 fed circuits are bad or if perhaps they're being powered from somewhere else (bypassing F25). Is there evidence someone has messed around with the pass fuse block....... added wires to power after market accessories? Are you seeing any FEM related error codes?
Yes you're correct, vanity mirror lights are 70 and 71 S via F25. I was thinking map lights (upper console) 97 S.
Interesting that the MY06 has no circuit 72 S. The nodes skip from 71 to 73. I've searched the PDF and there is no feed circuit 72 S. Garage door opener is fed via 97 S. The '06 electrical manual used to be linked somewhere on this site, but I can't find it now. If you want the full '06 book just PM me, I'll email it to you.
To be clear, the fuse was present and blown, I replaced it, and it blew immediately with an arc. Since then I've left it out.
The signal worked fine for several years, so this is a new problem.
I was starting to look at the overhead console as I've read other threads that indicate that's where their problems were. It's clearly on another circuit on my car, whether it should be or not. There's no evidence of anyone ever messing with the fuse box in the cabin.
I'm a little scared if there's a short as nothing has been molested in my wiring harness between when it worked and when it didn't. A short would then indicate a wiring insulation failure, which means all other wiring is right behind it. I've never heard of those kinds of issues on 350s, so hopefully not.
I need to pull codes again. I'll post them once I do.
Ooh, vanity mirrors in the headrests... One of those could be it. Anyone know if there are insulated wires that could fatigue in the pivot of the sun visor?
That's a place to start at least. Hopefully I don't have to pull the headliner, as that certainly isnti happening until the weather cools.
Ah, so F25 blows instantly when you replace it. That certainly points to a dead short. It will be a process of elimination to isolate that. There's those 6 items and they are hot whenever the ignition is on. At least there are 2 connectors in the harness that can help narrow it down some. Look up the location of connectors BF1-7 and EC1-22. If you can unplug those and the fuse still blows, then the problem is in the wire to points 68 or 69 (or prior to those junctions). If not, you can isolate it to one or the other. Not sure of any known chaff points on the harness. I'd look where the wire comes out the firewall (possible rodent damage?), or when it runs under the wheel arch to the front of the vehicle.
I don't know how similarly the X350 wiring is to the X308 - but I had similar symptoms in my (former) 2001 VDP. It turned out that the problem was in the wiring feed to one of the sun visor lamps. Some sharp sheet metal behind the visor mounting bracket, and it cut through the wiring, which had a fairly right turn in a cramped space.
07-25-2018, 11:23 AM
Turn Signal Problems B1504, B2037
