Need to replace my water pump due to a slow coolant leak at the shaft seal. Was looking at some old threads on R&R (https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...cement-195875/) and all I see mentioned is the new gasket. The parts catalog shows 2 o-rings associated with the water pump. Is this correct, I need 1 or 2 new o-rings to go with the new pump and gasket? I'm not seeing where any o-rings go on part AJ88912.

Thanks,
-Michael

 

Used A C Delco Professional #252-800 on mine.

No O'ring, just a nice metal & rubber gasket.

Maybe a couple inside, that can't be seen.

 

There are no o-rings to be used with the replacement water pumps, just the gasket. Do not use any sealant on the pump or gasket.

 

Don't know if this is relevant or of help. My Workshop Manual (pages 2411/12) does show an O-Ring (Please see attachment)?

 

Believe they may be referring to the stock Jaguar pump.

The A C Delco's are a bit different than those are.

But are a better design I M H O, being of a single piece instead of two.

 

Engine Water Pump ACDELCO PRO 252-800

This is what I recently installed on my 2005 XJR after having trouble with a 2 piece design.

 

I noticed the same thing about the o-ring in the manual when I looked, that's what had me confused. I also read about the Delco pump being good, however I prefer to stay OEM. Original pump has lasted 124k miles. So now I'm more confused--the Delco comes with the o-ring but the Jag pump does not? Or the Jag pump does not require one?

 

I can only imagine that the pump drawing (which I attached) in my X350 Workshop Manual is an original OEM Jaguar pump?

Michael, when you have got this sorted and you have time, please tell us what symptoms caused you to renew your pump? Was it very slow loss of coolant but with no visible coolant spill under your car? Did you use your excellent 'jack it up and get under there with a torch' method? Can you see a weeping pump from under with all panels removed and the engine running?
I stress, when you have sorted your own problem out......

 

My original pump lasted 100k miles and the only reason I replaced it was because I thought it would be a good idea while I was in there doing other work.

Since replacing the original my recent replacement is the third one over a period of 10k miles. The previous 2 were two piece design.

 

OEM pumps are updated with the metal gasket only. I installed one on my 04 XJR. No o rings are used. No leaks!

Be sure to tighten bolts to 8Nm + 90 deg.

 

Thanks to everyone who replied. I'll order the new OE pump and post back if I find anything is different.

EsRay, there is a very slow coolant leak (top off the reservoir about 1/4 cup a month) and you can see white residue on the engine block below the pump when looking up from the bottom of the car. No drips on the ground.

 

Can you elaborate please, for example what do I need to get out of the way like the Air filter box or the intake plastic where the MAF sensor is or the coolant tank, hoses etc...

 

Basically the expansion tank and hoses near the water pump and the serpentine belt (and if you have a SC engine the SC belt and hoses going to the SC coolers)

 

I was able to do it without removing expansion tank or SC belt.

A little less room but not too bad.

 

Too late for me I installed it without the O-ring just the gasket

 

yes, I noticed that mine it is not a a single piece instead it is of two, must of them now are not a single piece i would think is better the single piece.

 

I keep seeing, tighten bolts to 8Nm + 90 deg What exactly does that means ?

 

You use a good torque wrench to tighten bolts to 8Nm and then turn the torque wrench another 90 degrees.

You tighten opposite bolts one at a time not in a sequential fashion but diagonally opposite each other.

When I did mine I felt that turning the torque wrench another 90 degrees after reaching the 8 Nm felt way too much so I did not "force" that 90 degree turn.

Have had no leak issue at all.

 

I seldom use a torque wrench for these type of jobs.
My hands seem to have a feel, after years of car & motorcycle repair.
Inside of the motor, or drive train is another matter.

 

For this job use the torque wrench and get to 8Nm then once you get there keep going only about 30 to 45 degrees of rotation from your 8Nm torque point.