Hi

My wife asked me what tools I would like for Christmas and I thought I would request some for working on my 2005 Xjr.

What would be the most common and often used uncommon tools needed to work on our jaguars? What tools make work easier?

I have metric sockets up to 22mm. Both regular and deep also impacts in the same sizes. Ratchets, extensions, screwdrivers, hex wrenches up to 10 mm. Some torx, crow bars, hammers, dead blow, sledges, wrenches 6mm to 22mm, files, punches, tapes, scrapers, camera, Autell scanner, multi meter,p drills, impact wrenches, grinders, sawsall, no air tools though.

How often do you use ratcheting wrenches? Electric ratchet? Interior trim tools?

What do you guys think?
Thanks,

Griff

 

A Jaguar specific code reader will be needed

 

+1 well worth it

When no obvious error (i.e. no DTCs), check:
1. have pending P1111
2. running CL (closed loop) soon after engine start
3. fuel trims (hot engine parked idle) within 5% (say) of zero.

If you do get any codes, resist the temptation to clear them!! When the fault is fixed they self-clear. You clearing them also clears other things such as OBD monitors. You can buy trouble that way.

 

If you are hoping to work on the cooling system, then a remote hose clamp plier like the one below will be very useful.

Remote hose clamp pliers
Pete M

 

An open checkbook and patience...

OBD2 reader for sure and a magnetic retriever.

 

Swivel Sockets.

 

+1 for OBD reader although sounds like you're covered there
Trim tools are a good idea - they're cheap, and useful for loads of things not just trim
No workshop is complete without an air compressor and a conveniently placed retracting hose reel (or reels)...
A pair of fender covers helps keep the paint tidy, unfortunately I couldn't find any with Jaguar logos..
A suitable beer glass for the garage never goes astray

Swivel sockets are expensive and you can't put the same load on them as regular sockets, so I'd suggest start with a swivel joint first rather than a full set of sockets.. if you use the joint so much that it breaks then maybe consider replacing it with a set of swivel sockets. I feel the same way about ratchet spanners, you can't put the same load on them so technically you should use a reguar spanner to crack the nut/bolt then switch to the ratchet spanner to get it out... only worth buying if you'll use them loads.

 

I find a torque wrench is often useful.

-Dave

 

In addition to everything above

I am currently changing both EGR Valves on my 2006 2.7D, I find applying a long stream of tape to the ends of all my tools as they will get lost if you drop them in the engine bay Telescopic magnet and fibre optic camera

 

You will run into needing bigger sockets than your 22mm ones.
Forget just what size the rear hub nuts are without digging that socket out.
But needed sockets will go into the 30+ mm sizes.
Had to stop working, to go & buy at least one to do the job..
Others may remember the larger sizes needed.

 

I don't have an X350, rather an X250 and X308 (plus a few other brands and models of vehicles). But on both Jaguars there are plenty of places where its useful to have tools designed for tight spaces. Its all about having just the right tool or combination of attachments and extensions that allow you to swing the tool in a clear space.

1. What's sometimes called a rotator ratchet is cool tool. It swings in an arc like a regular ratchet, but its also gear driven, i.e. you can twist the handle and it will turn the anvil. The best type are the ones that also have a 1/4 or 3/8ths drive socket at the end of that handle so you can attach an extension and another ratchet, essentially becoming a 90° swivel adapter. Look up Proxxon 23082 for an example.

2. Similar application potential but totally different function, Home Depot sells a Zero Degree Gearless Ratchet. It says less than 1 degree swing arc, but with backlash I find that its probably more like 3 degrees. Still pretty darned good for a consumer grade tool. Like the rotator ratchet, I don't think these tools have great torque capacity, but once you break a fastener loose with the standard ratchet, it can speed the fastener's removal or installation.

3. A shade tree mechanic can never have too many different types of wrenches. I'd be lost without my "stubby" wrench sets. A little less often but still appreciated at times are what's often called "obstruction wrenches". There's both S-shaped & C-shaped (called "half-moon"). I think the true half circle C-shaped tend to fit in the most tight spots but I'm not a professional mechanic, only going by my own limited experience. 45° offset wrenches are a godsend sometimes, but I more often use my flexible head ratchets. Most wrench types are available as fixed or ratcheting type. I have a bunch of Gearwrench brand stuff (love their X-beam varieties), but sometimes on the Jaguars, I can't use the Gearwrenches because the bolt or nut is up too close against an adjacent wall and I have to revert to a standard box end wrench.

4. Flex head ratchets are really useful, particularly if you get 120 tooth, double-pawl type with a small swing arc. Make sure to get the "locking" type head. The non-locking have spring detents every 15 degrees or so but they are never tight enough - potential knuckle-busters.

5. I'd also be lost without my flare nut wrenches or sometimes called "line wrenches". These are designed to disconnect those nuts at the end of fuel lines, brake lines, transmission cooler lines, etc. The problem with regular open end wrenches, particularly consumer-grade ones, is that they can spread and round off a hex nut. A line wrench has a small slot in the end to allow use on any sort of tube fitting, but grips all six corners. Seems like even Jaguar lines that seal with an O-ring are always way overtightened by some ham-fisted mechanic who got to it before me. If you round the corners on line fittings, you have to replace the whole tube or hose so its nice to have some beefy line wrenches to knock them loose without risk of rounding.

6. Sockets. I use 6 point on hexes always. I have 12 point sockets that I got with Craftsman gift sets when I was a kid. Those cheap sets had a lot of flexibility combined with 48-tooth ratchets, but would round off hex corners like crazy. When I got older I bought a bunch of 6-point socket sets that I now use with a 120 tooth double-pawl ratchets. Those old 12point sockets only get used now for occasional weird 12-pointed fasteners. But I've also got sets of mid-depth sockets that I use all the time. They're sized halfway between a regular and deep socket. How many times have you wished for like a 1/2 inch long extension but the shortest you've got is like an inch and a quarter. One of these Christmases I hope I get some shallow socket sets. I've also got a set of anvils that snap into Gearwrenches - used when my ratchet's heads are too big.

7. Clicker-type torque wrenches - I have all three 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 drive and religiously look up and use proper assembly torque as long as I can get on it square enough. With so many thin sheetmetal and especially plastic parts today, you can so easily create a leak by overdoing it. That little 1/4 inch drive torque wrench, (20-200 in/lbs) tends to get the most use. There's several different styles of torque wrenches, beam, electronic, etc. but the clicker types are good enough for fasteners on cars and by far the easiest to use. And you don't have to buy expensive ones. My nephew works at a place that calibrates all sorts of instruments, gauges and tools. They actually certify hundreds of brand new Pittsburgh torque wrenches each year because their clients say that with less than 5% ever out of spec, its cheaper to stock up at Harbor Freight and just replace them when they are dropped than to buy the professional grade torque wrenches and have them inspected, rebuilt and re-calibrated each time an employee drops one.

You probably need to do a little research and request Santa bring you very specific brands and part numbers because just asking him for a torque wrench, there's no telling what you'd get. If you've been a good boy this year, maybe you'll get the tools that were meant for me.

 

+1 for tools that enable you to work in tight spaces, for example while working on the rear axle where the fuel tank is in the way.

For the Jag, I have bought "ratchet spanners", as I would call them, both with fixed and rotating ratchet sides, please refer to the pictures to see what I mean.

One of the best purchases ever, I use them a lot on all of my cars.

Best regards,

Thomas

 

Best post of the day thank you, I am trying to remove my EGR valves and struggling to get a bolt off- these have to be worth a try

 

I beg to differ on the swivel sockets, I've broken very few in my 83 years. Actually a 1/4" drive set is very handy in the tight spaces and small headed cap screws on these Jags. Swivel joints are awkward and floppy, ever try to use one on a long extension? There are actually some inexpensive fairly good quality sets on Ebay.

 

Lots of good heavy duty band aides. Multiple sizes with the knuckle type too. And good dr style wrap tape. Everyone else covered the tools quite well. And a top notch creeper that rolls easy when you are on it and possibly a rolling stoll to go with it