96 x300 at a loss, ac.
#1
96 x300 at a loss, ac.
I'm still pretty new at this, I recently bought this car but a month ago and the AC does not work I have a 2 year old son and I live in Missouri so I feel obligated to get this figured out I use it as my daily driver. I have pic. At bottom right of my radiator, I believe is the fan switch, where the previous owner decided to do some self wiring. They have a red wire and a black wire going to a white wire and black wire and a white and blue wire. Is that something I need to convert back?
And then there's this, it's messy. I really need help. The compressor is not locked up, the belts are worn out. I plan on replacing first thing, just not sure what size, Thank you everyone in advance, it means everything to me.
Bottom view
Bottom view
And then there's this, it's messy. I really need help. The compressor is not locked up, the belts are worn out. I plan on replacing first thing, just not sure what size, Thank you everyone in advance, it means everything to me.
Bottom view
Bottom view
#2
Chill out .
The rigged wiring on the 3 wire engine water coolant temp switch goes to the fan relay control module under the car just fwd of the LF wheel well ,
There is a self test of the AC system on the X300 giving codes of the faults . See page 110 of the 703 SG doc.
You can drive the control door motors with a 9 volt battery to verify operation or command a position .
The belt size is I believe 975 mm with 4 or 5 ribs other rib count for the alternator belt .
The compressor clutch can be removed without disturbing the compressor .
The compressor can be overhauled yourself from a parts company ( somewhere )
https://www.shopcenturyautoair.com/s..._Products.html
There is a quick and easy way to test the required radiator fans for proper AC cooling operation as there are 2 freon pressure switches one being bypassed in a TSB that also control 1 or 2 fan operation ..
The oil leak commonly comes from the hoses on the bottom of the resavour and you can cut an inch off the existing hoses for some fresh rubber .
See page 98 :
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto.../jagxj1996.pdf
The rigged wiring on the 3 wire engine water coolant temp switch goes to the fan relay control module under the car just fwd of the LF wheel well ,
There is a self test of the AC system on the X300 giving codes of the faults . See page 110 of the 703 SG doc.
You can drive the control door motors with a 9 volt battery to verify operation or command a position .
The belt size is I believe 975 mm with 4 or 5 ribs other rib count for the alternator belt .
The compressor clutch can be removed without disturbing the compressor .
The compressor can be overhauled yourself from a parts company ( somewhere )
https://www.shopcenturyautoair.com/s..._Products.html
There is a quick and easy way to test the required radiator fans for proper AC cooling operation as there are 2 freon pressure switches one being bypassed in a TSB that also control 1 or 2 fan operation ..
The oil leak commonly comes from the hoses on the bottom of the resavour and you can cut an inch off the existing hoses for some fresh rubber .
See page 98 :
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto.../jagxj1996.pdf
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 06-03-2018 at 01:16 AM.
The following users liked this post:
al_roethlisberger (06-03-2018)
#3
Check your condenser mounting bushes (the "radiator" in front of the radiator) particularly the lowers. They tend to rot or go away, then your condenser rubs a hole in itself against the car's structure. If you have this problem, the a/c system will not hold a vacuum. Also, before any vacuum and recharge, you'd do well to renew the receiver/drier, mounted atop the condenser. $30ish in parts - they tend to vomit their dessicant pellets over time which creates a nasty clog at your TXV.
Last edited by aholbro1; 06-03-2018 at 07:41 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by aholbro1:
al_roethlisberger (06-03-2018),
Lady Penelope (06-03-2018)
#4
Check your condenser mounting bushes (the "radiator" in front of the radiator) particularly the lowers. They tend to rot or go away, then your condenser rubs a hole in itself against the car's structure. If you have this problem, the a/c system will not hold a vacuum. Also, before any vacuum and recharge, you'd do well to renew the reciever/drier, mounted atop the condenser. $30ish in parts - they tend to vomit their dessicant pellets over time which creates a nasty clog at your TXV.
.....and ALL of the cars by this age have had their bushings rot away.
One should change the radiator "donut" bushings while at it too. Again, easy 30 min job, maybe an hour if you take a break
Some info:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...shings-152633/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...shings-102601/
And as said above, the power steering leaks (slow seeps really) on the low pressure (ironically) supply and return hoses is very common. Heat from the exhaust hardens the hoses and they leak at the reservoir clamps and seem to just weep through the hoses over 20 years.
Fortunately they are very easy to replace and also relatively inexpensive. Don't forget the new o-ring at the hose end.
.
Last edited by al_roethlisberger; 06-03-2018 at 09:57 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by al_roethlisberger:
aholbro1 (06-03-2018),
Lady Penelope (06-03-2018)
#5
Regarding belt change:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ft-xjs-163573/
Spoiler alert, buy Dayco belts
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ft-xjs-163573/
Spoiler alert, buy Dayco belts
The following users liked this post:
aholbro1 (06-03-2018)
#6
Excellent post, Vee, but the integration of the AJ-16 into the XJS seems to be slightly different from the X300 as to drive belts. And by "different" I mean harder to change....unless you run into problems with the long, 1/4" drive idler pulley adjustment rod as some members have. Alternator arrangement seems to be the same, however.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...lt-how-102387/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...lt-how-102387/
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