XJ XJ6 / XJR6 ( X300 ) 1995-1997

97 XJ6 Cranking in Run position Why ?

 
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Old 04-30-2019, 02:34 PM
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Default 97 XJ6 Cranking in Run position Why ?

My Girl has been in storage for a couple of years, in an attempt to start her up for use, she started cranking in the run position instead of the crank position and doesnít change in crank position 3 either. I swapped relays, checked fuses, remote tested the starter, replaced the ignition switch and the BPCM, and still have the same problem. I did notice that the high beam indicator is on during the cranking event, all the gauges read good. Iíve been searching the forum for someone with a similar issue but havenít come across any information. Please help. My Dad is unable to care for my Girl any more. He was responsible for starting the car occasionally and keeping the battery charged so I can use her when I come to visit my dad. Thank you for the help. Lady P was originally helping me trying to start my Girl from a couple of years ago and now that I am back in the Country I am giving it another try because I couldnít continue working on her with the limited time I had to be here with my Dad.
 
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Old 05-01-2019, 03:45 AM
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Sounds like your starter solenoid is sticking. When you turn the key to the crank position, a coil on the solenoid which is attached to the starter motor is energised. This throws a cog forward onto the flywheel, connecting the starter to it, and causes the starter motor to turn. When the engine starts and you release the key, the energy is removed from the solenoid, and it returns to rest. If the solenoid is sticking, the cog stays in the forward position, which also maintains the power to the starter motor, hence the continued cranking.
I haven't had the need (touch wood!) to remove my starter, so don't know for sure, but solenoids can usually be dismantled and cleaned which should solve the problem.
 
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Old 05-01-2019, 09:23 AM
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Thank you very much, Iíll give that a try.
 
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Old 05-06-2019, 03:07 PM
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Pulled out the starter, replaced it and retried, no change, still cranks in run when attempting to start her. The old starter had some gear wear, solenoid was definitely not rusty or stuck. Tested out ďPassĒ at Autozone , I watched as the test was done. I swapped out the original Body Processor Module ( it had the replacement ) to see if the original module was going to work, the starter doesnít do anything with the original BPM.
What next ?
 
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Old 05-14-2019, 11:16 PM
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Default Could the Trans Rotary Switch be the culprit ?

Well members, it has come down to this. Body Processor Module has failed, CKPS has failed, Starter was damaged. I will be removing the Trans Rotary Switch from my Girl for an inspection and cleaning, because as strange as it seems, while I was investigating all the wiring related to the reason why it was starting in the run position and not in neutral, I followed some wires down to the transmission. I proceeded to tap on it with a hammer, and VOILA !!! It only cranks when you turn the key to start position, and it also fired up. I spent some time cleaning her up for a little drive, got in, turned the key and it started cranking in the run position again and at the same time it was running, the starter was going, until I shifted down out of Park. After 3 tries, I quit forcing the issue. Is this a unique issue , or am I chasing after the wrong thing ?
 
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Old 05-17-2019, 01:32 AM
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I was looking in the manuals at the function of the Rotary Switch on the transmission. It sends output to the decoder module next to the shifter, and to the Transmission Control Module. The decoder tells the TCM which gear is selected, and can inhibit the starter if not in P or N. It also lights up the gear indicator. That is all related to starting and driving, but shouldn't be related to the starter engaging while only in the "run" mode. So, if your gear indicator light is correct for where you position the shifter, and the car cranks ok in Park and Neutral (despite cranking in the "run" position), then the Rotary Switch is probably just fine.

Are you sure that the new ignition switch was installed correctly and without accidental shorting of any terminals? It seems like a short to the "crank" position contact could activate the starter from the "run" position. It is hard to say if this is the effect you would get if that were true, but worth checking the ignition switch. Aside from that, I would suspect the BPM again.

Let's say that the hammer tap temporarily corrected the original problem. Now, if the engine is running with the starter still engaged on the flywheel, but then the starter releases when you put the car into gear, it seems like the starter is not retracting with enough force. The retraction force comes from a spring inside the starter, or possibly only from the solenoid. So when you shift into Drive, the drop in RPM allows the starter gear to disengage due to the reduced force and friction between the two gears. It's a theory. Again that points to a worn out internal spring or solenoid on the starter.
 
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Old 05-17-2019, 09:37 AM
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Thank you SleekJag12 for your reply. The ignition switch checks out fine. I let the engine start while in the run position without having to move it to crank position, and after it starts, I quickly move it from Park to Reverse and the starter disengages as it should once started, however, now when I move the shift select from reverse to drive and back, it occasionally engages the starter when I pass the neutral position. In order to turn the engine off, I must have it in any location but Park. While it was off, , I moved the select to Neutral, turned the key to Run, and the starter doesnít engage until I turn it to the Crank position. This is the reason I believe it is the Rotary Switch. Something has gone wrong inside the Switch thatís stuck in the Park contact. I have only one week left to find out because I have to go home from my visit with Dad. So during my last week here, Iíll be removing the Rotary Switch to open it up to look inside for the problem, but if I find nothing wrong with it, it will go back together and that will be the end of it until I can work on Her again.
p.s Starter, Crank Position Sensor, Body Processor Module,Battery,Ignition Switch,and all related Relays & Fuses have been replaced. When started She runs great.
 
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Old 05-17-2019, 11:19 AM
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I agree with SleekJag12 , I don't see how the rotary switch could initiate cranking.

I can see that you have replaced many parts but some more detail diagnostics is what is really needed here. From looking at the Electrical Guide, there are only really two things that could cause what you are describing. I would do the following tests to diagnose.

1. The ignition switch and the wiring from the switch to the BPM. Test at the BPM for ground on Pin FC2-41. If you have ground signal here when the key is not in position III then the fault is either the ignition switch or a short to ground on the wiring between the switch and the BPM.

2. Assuming 1. does not find the problem, check Pin FC1-33 on the BPM. This should only have a ground when key is in position 3. If you have ground on this pin, but not on FC2-41 (as in 1. above) then the BPM is faulty or there is a short to ground on the wire from that pin to the starter relay.

I think the problems lies in either 1. or 2. above. There is a possibility that there is an issue with the actual starter relay or it's wiring but if that was the case I don't think cranking would stop when you move the selector.

EDIT: Note also that Key Pos III signal to the BPM is also used to turn off the Interior lights (during Cranking). If your lights are off at Pos II then that is further evidence of the Ignition Switch or it's wiring is not right.
 

Last edited by b1mcp; 05-17-2019 at 11:28 AM. Reason: More Info
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