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My anitlock light goes on and off everytime I start the car and begin driving. Sometimes it will come on and sometimes it wont. I know cleaning the wheel speed sensors is one thing. But also I heard about the abs cpu going bad, whats the deal with that? and how can it be fixed?
I think the most common issue in solder joints coming loose on the circuit board. Apparently the circuit board can be removed (with a little effort) from the hydraulic unit, allowing the car to be driven with non-abs brake function, while the electrical portion is sent to ModuleMasters or similar for repair for $125 or so.
My anitlock light goes on and off everytime I start the car and begin driving. Sometimes it will come on and sometimes it wont. I know cleaning the wheel speed sensors is one thing. But also I heard about the abs cpu going bad, whats the deal with that? and how can it be fixed?
I just got done repairing one of the modules not 20 minutes ago. For sh**s and grins I took a couple pictures.
The broken solder joint will produce exactly your symptoms, but so will a broken link lead to a wheel speed sensor, for instance. That's why it's best to see what fault code is set in the ABS before undertaking the module repair.
Steve, is this unit that lives under the hydraulics of the ABS? Or is this something inside the cabin?
Cheers
DD
On your car, yes, it's under the modulator. Though yours is shaped differently that this one. This is from an X308 and bolts to the side of the modulator. The X100 part is also the same as the X308. I have a '95 also, and ours is not quite as easy to open up [the module that is] as this one, but the mechanics is the same. I guess I should also say it's harder to make the X300 finished product look as professional as this one. One of these days I'll have my head on straight and get some pictures of the X300 part.
how could I get to read the code? I only have a obd 2 scanner for the check engine...
Well, that leaves you with getting a dealer to read the codes, an indepentent that might have an AutoEnginuity scantool or something similar, or throwing darts. Meaning go after the module repair and see if it fixes it. Either way there is risk or expense of some sort.
I have same problem, but it stays on but heck its been that way for about 5 yrs now, when you start the car about 30 secc late anti lock lite comes on says brakes work fine, al tho , i have notice in the winter ( i live in arizona, not sure if there is suck a thing) but anyway when its cooler, brakes will go hard first thing in mornings starting out, then everything is good,, i thought i saw a post somewhere about wheel speed sensors beign dirty, any help on that would be greattttt
So i am having the same problem just like yall are having with the anti lock light. so i got my solaras scan tool hooked up to the car and every thing and i tried to find out what the deal was but it will not read it the only option that come to mind is if you think its a wheel speed sensor check that out and clean, repair or even buy a new one. but if you have a scan tool and dont think that it is that big of a deal just clear the code that it is throwing. and if anyone has any questions about rpms being too high, check the throttle body unit, or the sensor.
Don't try too hard on removing the wheel sensors as they get stuck and break like one of mine . Someone suggested leaving the rear ones in place if they wouldn't come out and using a spray with a rag on a stick to go inside the hub assembly to clean the sensor face .
I wonder if you can drill an inspection hole ( not the larger repair access hole which I believe is a better option then cutting the whole top off ) in the plastic body of the ABS module without removing the module and the stuff around it . But then a visual inspection may not reveal the bad solder well enough . I haven't done one myself , just thinking out laud if there is easier approach .
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 03-21-2018 at 09:27 AM.
I own an XJS and it was my right front sensor that needed a cleaning. Since cleaned, all has been good. Luckily I had a device that could pull the ABS code to help me zero in on the offending sensor.
So i am having the same problem just like yall are having with the anti lock light. so i got my solaras scan tool hooked up to the car and every thing and i tried to find out what the deal was but it will not read it the only option that come to mind is if you think its a wheel speed sensor check that out and clean, repair or even buy a new one. but if you have a scan tool and dont think that it is that big of a deal just clear the code that it is throwing. and if anyone has any questions about rpms being too high, check the throttle body unit, or the sensor.
Hi johnellison117,
Welcome to the Jaguar Forums! It's great to have you with us!
First of all, without knowing the year, model and engine details of your Jaguar, our replies can only be based on assumptions. Please use your User Control Panel (User CP) to add these details to your signature so others don't have to ask in order to provide accurate replies.
Most of the diagnostic trouble codes related to the ABS system are proprietary Jaguar Chassis codes with a C- prefix. Most OBD scanners can only read the Powertrain (P) codes.
Also, note that the thread you posted to has had no activity since 2011. You can see the date of the most recent post in its upper left corner. It might be better to start your own thread with your specific issues.
And while I'm on my moderator soapbox, please try to use capitalization and an occasional line break/new paragraph to give your readers' eyes a break from trying to make it through a single block of text without losing their place.
Finally, please visit the the New Member Area - Intro a MUST and post a required introduction so we can learn something about you and your Jaguar and give you a proper welcome.
I own an XJS and it was my right front sensor that needed a cleaning. Since cleaned, all has been good. Luckily I had a device that could pull the ABS code to help me zero in on the offending sensor.
What tool do you have that pulls the chassis codes??....I am a big believer in buying tools and DIY when possible.
I think my sensor that is flaky is the Left rear since I sometimes see the speedo drop to zero at low speeds....
What tool do you have that pulls the chassis codes??....I am a big believer in buying tools and DIY when possible.
I think my sensor that is flaky is the Left rear since I sometimes see the speedo drop to zero at low speeds....
Check the forum for reviews of the iCarsoft i930 Jaguar edition, which may be able to read the proprietary Jaguar B, C and U codes in addition to the generic P codes.
I use the Jaguar dealer-level programs IDS and SDD running in a Windows XP Pro virtual machine on a Windows 7 laptop with a Drew Technologies Mongoose interface cable. The Mongoose clones may work fine for reading P, B, C and U codes and other diagnostic functions. I know some eBay sellers are still offering various versions of IDS and SDD. For pre-S-Type/X350 cars you'll be fine with IDS. I have version 125.03. I have several versions of SDD but I use 131.03 most often because the package I got included an extra disc of calibration files. Version 134 is faster and some members are using even newer versions, just be sure to get a version for which no TOPix subscription is required.
For programming modules, you need a genuine Drew Technologies Mongoose cable or a Ford VCM, and a stable power supply like the Jaguar-specified Midtronics PSC-550S.
Some high-end third-party systems can read B, C and U codes, such as Autoenginuity with the Jaguar enhancement.
Regarding your wheel speed sensor, if cleaning the sensors and ABS reluctor wheels doesn't cure the issue, you can measure the DC resistance of all four sensors directly, or even better at the ABS module electrical connector. The relevant pins are shown on pdf page 83 of the Electrical Guide which you can download here:
A very common issue is a broken wire in one of the wheel speed sensor wiring harnesses, usually in the free-floating section between the sensor and where the cable is clipped to the underbody. While you have your ohmmeter connected to a sensor's pins at the ABS module connector, you can flex and manipulate the cable along its length and watch your meter for a sudden jump to infinite resistance, indicating you have located the break in the wire.
Another very common issue is cold/starved/cracked solder joints in the ABS module itself, but given your intermittent loss of speedometer I think you're on the right track - check your left rear wheel speed sensor first.
Is it just the ABS light which comes on? Does "Trac Fail" also light up?
The reason I ask is that the rear sensors have a dual role in providing wheel,speed info for the ABS and traction control systems (and the speedo) so if the fault is related to a rear sensor, i would expect to see both warning lights illuminated.
Although I have not personally experienced it, does the dry solder problem not also cause both lights to illuminate?
If it is just the ABS bulb, I would be inclined to start with the front sensors.
Countyjag and Ric in RVA have a good discription of how the ABS , TC , and Speedo work together wheel sensor wise to be able to trouble shoot it on a least intrusive and least diagnostic tools basis before you were to buy the tooling to see the common C1095 code and the removal of the ABS mdule for the solder repair . If you do not have both ABS and TC lights and Speedo dropping to 0 the sensors intelligence signal is processed in different ways to give the resulting commands . The ABS is commanded by the ABS module , the TC is commanded by the traction control actuator and the Speedo is commanded by the instrument module . The later 2 do use this sensor intelligence signal from the ABS module as they pull it from there .
Some models do not have the TC actuator and throttle cable tie in located Fwd of the ABS module .
Some thing you can do without jacking is to read the sensors fundamental resistance reading other then the true functional reading from the ABS connector in the wire pairs as the sensors should read about the same . A functional test would be to jack the car and spin the wheels in the correct direction to see your meter on the AC voltage setting read about 1.0 volts .
Sometimes you have to spend the time with the least intrusive things before you invest in the more involved things . Cleaning the sensor faces can be done without jacking the car . I am in no means an expert in the field but this is more a philosophical approach to solving a problem .
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 03-24-2018 at 07:48 AM.
05-12-2011, 11:40 AM
Antilock light on and off
