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Hello all,
The battery on my 1998 xj8 when a new one was installed had the battery cables hooked up in reverse.
Saw some smoke coming out from under hood and immediately disconnect cables to the battery.
What do you think got burned up?
What damage did this do to the car?
Fusable Link, Alternator ????
Please help.
I hate to state the obvious but, hook up the battery correctly and try to start the car and try to determine what is not working. If hooked up correctly and you have no power then I would start with the High Power fuses. They are mounted in the trunk on the front wall. They are 2 amp 250 amp fuse links. If you had the ignition off and the battery connected incorrectly the only cable receiving voltage would be the one on the right side of the vehicle running from the battery to the bulkhead connector in the engine compartment on the right side and then on to the starter.
Check the bulkhead connector for heat damage and the cable on each side of the bulkhead connector.
Been there , done that . Easy to do and all is not lost . Cheap recovery .
Mine was just fuses and the voltage regulator .
Stereo fuses , Instrument Panel fuses , and a new alternator regulator as the rest of the alternator is fine .
Once your gets those specifics put your finger on the 1 king relay in the corner of each fuse box to verify that that section is powering up and verify the related items out from there .
Mine is a X300 but the X308 is pretty much the same
I'll get you a print of the fuse locations and a part number for a regulator .
Been there , done that . Easy to do and all is not lost . Cheap recovery .
Mine was just fuses and the voltage regulator .
Stereo fuses , Instrument Panel fuses , and a new alternator regulator as the rest of the alternator is fine .
Once your gets those specifics put your finger on the 1 king relay in the corner of each fuse box to verify that that section is powering up and verify the related items out from there .
Mine is a X300 but the X308 is pretty much the same
I'll get you a print of the fuse locations and a part number for a regulator .
This website is a wealth of knowledge , I'm just passing it along .
You can hook the car up to a battery charger for the repair processes as the alternator has to come out to be spun tested for free at the auto parts store .
Verify you can get the bolt off between the regulator and the brushes as mine was stuck . Drilled out head of bolt as the tail stays with the regulator or you can order new brushes depending on wear on the same website
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 02-06-2018 at 08:41 AM.
I managed that, not once but twice in quick succession (don’t ask!) fried the fuel pump circuit on the ECU, this was on a ‘92 XJ40 so the 308 may have some better protection.
Hope I’m not a harbinger of disaster.
If it is a straight 6 X300 series sedan vs. V8 X308 , the regulator is part # IN435 . Easy to swap out and the auto parts store will spin test it . The alternator comes out of the top but bolts from the bottom . The engine mount may bite the alternator and not let go but just lever out with a lever . File down before reinstalling . there is a regulator fuse that feeds the alternator excitation voltage . Pic below is for X300 only :
Thank you all for input.
As to date. Had 6 blown fuses found.
Alternator fried.
Had it rebuilt at a local alternator rebuild shop.
Cost $180. Not sure if this is a good price. Not a complete rebuild as he left the old bearing and pulley wheel.
Yes, the alternator is very tight in the motor frame mount. Had to lever it out.
Ground down alternator before reinstall but apparently not enough. But, apparently not enough.
It is still very tight and difficult to reinstall as a result.
I had to tap it in place with a large screw driver and hammer. I am hoping the tapping on the alternator case did not damage it.
The aluminum casting on the alternator could have cracked and as the magnetic winding pluses put a mechanical strain on the casting it might come apart under load or time . This would have bad consequences if it tore into the engine block . Best to remove it and inspect it to be safe . The casting can be rewelded up to a point and you have to look around for someone to do aluminum . Has to be rewelded as the 2 halves are put together as they will warp and not go back together .
This may be nit picking but better safe then sorry . Mine is cracked by trying to split the halves without removing the pulley as I wanted to replace the bearings while I had it out and I found a auto shop to do this . Muffler shop deals with steel which is a different process .
Feel for the king relays in each ( except the LH engine fuse box ) of the fuse trays to click as you turn the key enabling power to the fuses . 4 total as you may have at least 1 closing but not all , they can be swapped . If you feel 1 relay click proves somewhat the ignition switch is OK controlling these relays to close .
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 02-24-2018 at 01:50 PM.
If you're working by yourself you can turn off everything to reduce load across the king relays power sockets and with the key in the on position you can remove and reinstall the relay and feel for the click . Then move to the next king relay . One may be intermittent so it makes it harder . If you can list the items not coming alive you can track down the specific one .
02-05-2018, 05:56 PM
Battery hooked up backwards !!!
