Good evening,
I have a strange problem since a while: when trying to close the DDS with the remote, the doors are locking normally, but after ca. 1.5 sec open again, then lock again after another 1.5 sec etc. etc. When I press the button for closing again during this process, doors will close (and stay closed) after another round of opening-closing.
This happens with both remotes I have, so I would rather think it’s a problem of the controller?
I couldn‘t find any information on similar problems.
Does anybody have an idea how to investigate this problem?
Thanks & best regards
Martin

 

At mine it was a driver door power lock position switch problem. Despite it's a VDO unit i was unlucky to find a replacement for actuator only so had to replace a full latch assembly. Was able to find the most fresh from 2003 X308.

 

Did you have the same phenomenon (eternal close - open cycles)?

 

Yes sir.

 

There is some discussion on lubing the door latch mechanism which contains the door lock position switch , not easy


You can try the exiting procedure on the passenger side and see if it duplicates

 

Thanks! I‘ll try this - and I‘ll,have a look on the passenger‘s side door card. I had to take it away some while ago in order to change the mirror. Perhaps there is some misplacing of the knob hole when I replaced it
What do you mean with exiting procedure?

 

When you lift out of seat , turn around and manually close door and hit the FOB buttons

There is a film from Jaguar in the security section that shows a fully functioning security system worth a thousand words

Film coming

What I found on my door card removal was the door controller there by the hands had the ribbon connector pin lock bar loose as you look at the controller from the inside after pulling off card

this lock bar allowed the pins to migrate away from contact , my issue involved the windows

Look at your door latch mechanism connector as this is where the door lock agreement switch is and other's lubrication procedures

The door latch lock position switch may be a common microswitch easily available

They come in 2 versions , normally ( relaxed ) open , and normally closed , or a combination that has 3 wire post on it so you can choose N. O . and N. C.

 

 

I am sorry but door latch microswitch is not the issue here (BTW deoxit easily brings them back to work). It is used for door closed or ajar detection and if central lock system see the door ajar it signals about it. Also there are saloon lights and dash warning aren't working properly if this microswitch fails. What i was talking about is the power lock actuator status switch which is inside the front actuator (that's why front actuators are 5-wire instead of 3). I've just checked mine and saw the switch is always open. Looking into latch pictures I've tried to find the replacement actuator by letter marks on it with no luck. And it looked like it need to be cut open to get inside so i've decided it would be better to pay $100 for relatively fresh used latch and replace it fully (kinda tricky and the plastic connector from the latch to the key barrel rod will break most likely (mine did but i've got spare on the purchased latch) so better to have it new (i've checked it is surprisingly available for a small price).

 

Some X300s have 1 key barrel on the driver door and some have a 2nd key barrel on the passenger side

The difference between 3 and 5 wire is front doors and rear doors

There is a connector on the key barrel ( s ) that may have been left off disturbing the SLCM logic steps

In order to drive the lock mechanism to lock a relay has to power the actuator , it can still be sticky mechanism

These relays have their fuse # 1 / 15 amp right heelboard fuse box

B1MCP found a corroded connector somewhere along the circuit

So with your 1997 with the later X300 security design using a 433 hz FOB

The security peanut relays are in the rear seat left heelboard area

Pic comings

See section 15 for the 1997 , depending how your German model was built NAS = North American Specification

jagxj1997.pdf

You have 2 sets of relays one set to open locks and one set to close locks , close locks relays suspected

You can swap these around and feel for them clicking before digging out actuators and lock position switches

By them clicking they may be getting the correct command to close but the relay internal power through contacts can be burnt

By them not clicking they can be getting correct command but pulling coil inside relay bad

If you pull a relay out you may disturb the SLCM's logic steps state and have to do a hard reset procedure to bring it back to 0 state

See relay item # 4 in the parts diagram

Genuine Relays For Jaguar Xj 1995 - 1997 (from 720125 To 812255) (x300) Classic | Jaguar Land Rover Classic Parts

 

Good morning,
Thank you all for your support. Due to a flu, I’m not „allowed“ to get close to the car today for further investigation… But I checked some points yesterday:
1. In my first post I wrote that I had to press the FOB button twice to close the locks. This is not true: it also closes pressing it once, and the process is: close - open - close - open - close (definitely). This is reproducable.
2. When I use the button with the key symbol in the dash, closing is normal.
3. When I press the chrome knob in the driver‘s door, closing is normal.
I wasn‘t able yet to test the closing at the passenger‘s side. Perhaps the problem is located in the FOB receiver?

 

In the worst case the tiny new switches under the FOB buttons and new button covers are on E - Bay

Going through your symptoms between the different FOB buttons as there are many TSB to cover and such

One of them is this factory mis matching of earlier made rear glass that has the 315 Hz antennae trying to do its best in a 433 Hz other parts

You can also have the more common 315 Hz SLCM installed as a swap somewhere along the time




" 2. When I use the button with the key symbol in the dash, closing is normal.
3. When I press the chrome knob in the driver‘s door, closing is normal."

From a outside not digging too far does this show the car side as the to lock actuators doing their thing ?

 

Good morning,
The problem lies definitely in the knob on the passenger’s side not going down all the way when locking. When I press it down manually, locking with the remote will work as expected.
some research in other forums showed that it seems to be a normal behaviour in this case that the locking system will try to lock exactly three times, even if the doors are already locked after the first attempt. Same happens by the way when locking with the key.
I still don’t understand why this doesn’t hapen when closing with the lock button in the dash or by pressing down the knob in ther driver’s door - but hey! There are so many things I still don’t understand ;-).
I’ll take apart the passenger’s door when I‘m back home (I‘m in the middle of a 2.000 km trip back to Germany.)
Thanks a lot & best regards
Martin

 

By a weak actuator pulling of the lock knob down points to the command the lock actuator gets to do so

Weak in the FOB direction

Different then the command route for the lock button on dash , but the commands both go through SLCM and single wire to the relay

sometimes a relay has an over center to hold the power contacts inside it place

you can place a jumper wire between pin 3 and 5 and this will verify a good door mechanism before opening up door panel but by the center console switch controlling same lock relay............

this 1 relay controls all door locks so that only works well with the other 3 doors so that tells you the 1 door is underperforming ( ? )

The center console switch is labeled as center console switch pack in the wiring guide ( section 15 also ) and provides a ground to command the SLCM to provide a different ground ( to the relay ) for the close / lock relay , same SLCM used with the FOB

So nothing there

Your FOB antenna input is in section 15.4

Researching

 

Reworded a bit on above post so maybe better

 

Finally I was able to take care of my little problem. I took away the upper part of the door card (the foam panel where the chrome button goes through), and closing worked as it should. I carefully remounted the panel, and the closing procedure started to fail again as before. I repeated the removal of the panel several times, put a little WD5 onto the knob, and finally could solve the problem.
But please don't ask me what was the reason for the fail. I'd say that you can't make errors when re-mounting the panel; the wire the button is mounted on (see photo) is rather dangling around, and I was wondering whether it should have some kind of guidance. However, it didn't seem to be deformed or bended in any way, it's stiff and can't be twisted, and there is only one way to pass it through the panel. The panel itself can be mounted in only one way, too. Therefor: No idea...
What I've learned is that when the clsoing ist like - closed-opened-closed-opened-closed, it's highly probable that one of the knobs is physically blocked.
Thanks for all your help and hopefully see you again with the next problem I'm going to look at: rear seat heating is dead ;-)
Martin

 

Good to see locks worked out

on the rear seats the right heelboard panel should have a relay ( s ) that clicks as you move the control switch

it may have a time dampener / delay with the timer device seen in pic on post # 10 in the left heelboard panel

See page 27 and 142

jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/jagxj1997.pdf

Of course there are fuses , see page 14 and 15 and 22

X300 1996 LWB.pdf

 

No click, and the control lights inside the two switches (mine is the model with two individual rear seats) are off. In other words: Nothinh happens when I presse the buttons. Fuses are ok, will need to have a deeper look into it, but better open a new thread to make it easier for future generations to find ;-)

 

Fuse # 17 / 20 amp Trunk is the big power fuse for both seats , this goes through the troublesome BT - 4 connector but you would see other problems with the BT - 4

Fuse # 14 / 10 amp right heelboard fuse box is the one fuse to control both timer relays

A common thing to both heaters and indication is the single ground point

The odds that both timer relays themselves being bad is very very small