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Hi y'all.
Just traded my XJR-s for an XJR6 (practical reasons).
Not my first one so I have some experience but I will be asking question!
Like, why doesn't the cruise control work?
Why is the stereo so awful?
1. Hmm.... check all fuses. Do you have trac/ABS caution light? I think that might inhibit CC, though not sure. If so, have the codes read....but like as not a C1095 for failing solder joints in the ABS Module.
2. Speakers are probably rotten. Can be repaired with a kit...or replaced with 6.5" round ones. Plastic anchor fixing the front inner door panels at the armrest can be quite vexing...see the how-to in the stickies. If you have premium sound, I can almost guarantee your subwoofer in the rear parcel shelf is blown. Much writing here in the forum about that one. Not inexpensive nor easy to find a suitable aftermarket replacement, but these, too, can be repaired.
How wonderful! How painful! Welcome to the X300 again. Those folks over in X27 must be a bit upset to see you part with your XJ-S... an XJR-S no less! Although we are all much too polite to question you in any way. So, we all want to know: which car is faster and handles better??
Your cruise control possibly needs a vacuum actuator bulb.
The audio systems are notoriously substandard by today's standards. Not to mention the speakers rot out with age. We are all used to repairing our audio systems. I'm replacing all four of the tweeters in my car, none of which were working. Front pillars done. Big improvement. There are many threads about head unit upgrades too.
I hope the XJR-S found a good home. What an awesome piece of artistic machinery.
Last edited by SleekJag12; 12-07-2018 at 02:27 AM.
Reason: Changed a word/fixed formatting
Well, on paper the 6 is faster than the S simply by having 27 extra horses.
As for handling, the S knocks the 6 into the weeds; re-valved steering rack for the R-s makes it handle like a tanker at slow speeds but is amazing when you have your foot in the loud pedal; getting out of the S and straight in to the 6 was quite an eye opener as the steering felt really over assisted.
To start with I felt like I was sitting 'on' the 6 rather than being 'in' it like the S but that is one of the reasons for the change, a higher driving position.
The 6 has a higher centre of gravity than the S so has a more pronounced roll although my R-s had Aston DB7 suspension bits on it and cornered completely flat.
The R-s had a modified exhaust and the sound of 12 pots banging through quad pipes was quite addictive; the 6 is quite civilised by comparison.
Different cars really.
i don't think it is the speakers at fault unless they have all blown; occasionally they work fine but most of the time they are really crackly (FM, AM, CD all the same) so I am leaning more towards the stereo amplifier itself.
Where would I find the cruise vacuum bulb?
The clock is knackered, the trip display is really dim and the handbrake lamp works intermittently.
So, usual Jag stuff!
Well, the UK X300 Forum is as useless as the X Type forum; anybody else help me out with these?
No cruise control. Traction light came on today. Bulb failure warning light on all the time even though all the bulbs seem to work. Scratchy/ warbling stereo; it is affecting all the speakers so I guess that they are ok and is related to the amp in the head unit? Intermittent handbrake on warning light. Barely visible trip meter (invisible at night). Clock buggered; I know someone fixes them but I can't find who. Other than that it seems fine!
Sorry about the colour left 333333 etc.
My idiot laptop.
Anybody know anything about Windows 10?
No CC, might be the brake switch, if the brake switch faults then the CC is disconnected.
No idea with the Trac control.
Check all the bulbs for dirty contacts, not forgetting the number plate lights.
Stereo, on your own with that one I’m afraid from me.
Handbrake micro switch?
Not sure on the trip meter and the clock s a well know fault
As mentioned above get a code reader to check for codes.
There are many DIY guides with Youtube videos on the web about the LCD clock repairs, but if you don't want to get your own hands dirty there are workshops that do repair or sell refurbished clock units on an exchange basis. If you are based in the UK try this one on eBay.
On the XJR, Traction control works with the ABS so normally both fail or are reportedly faulty. It would be a bit weird that only TC is showing disorder. Check the throttle cable and the wires underneath the TC tower to see if they are loose or anything. The wire sheath down there often shows signs of disintegration and in the worst case scenario is completely missing.
Bulb failure warning is a common false alarm. Mine comes on and off so I believe it can be due to bulb contacts - check for oxidation, corrosion of the contact metal. Check the rear lights and number plate and replaced them all for the peace of mind.
I too sometimes have intermittent brake warning light. This is often due to brake fluid nearing minimum level so a warning is triggered when there is sudden change in velocity or if there is body-roll.
Thanks guys.
The brake warning light is for the handbrake (parking/emergency brake?), not the brake brakes if you see what I mean; I'm guessing it is just the switch on the lever not contacting properly (like the cigarette lighter).
Local guy reckons cruise and traction fail are usually linked to a wheel speed sensor; I've booked it in for some remedial work next week so I'll get it scanned then.
See page 89 as the brake switch for the tail light
I think where was a revised part #
same connector # CA72 - xx
The wire of concern is the Purple / Blue wire ******* There is a error in the wiring guide ******
To make the light go away without replacing the switch just remove or provide the ground the closed switch provides
To see the 2nd half of your brake switch not responding put a test meter on pin 20 and pump the normal brake pedal
This could explain why no dual TC and ABS fail as a wheel speed sensor failure scenario
Since the retarding of the throttle cable with TC is inop the advancing of it with the CC independent system module and vacuum bulb actuator can see that through a wire at pin 4 Slate / Red from the TC / ABS module and not give that CC to you
Thanks Lady P.
The TC off light wasn't on for the first couple of days even though the cruise wasn't working.
I have tried all the speakers separately and they all, intermittently, make the same noise so is it likely that all of the speakers have gone?
It's not the antenna as the noise is still there when playing CD's which is why I am tending towards the amp in the head unit; are these a known problem?
It has been changed at some time in the past as it has a different radio code.
Some of the fault lights and cEL codes have inhibits nd won't show until a certain number of cycles like 3 for the ABS / TC system , they won;t reset themselves until the car reached 12 .5 mph
Toshiba TA8221 . 2 amps for 4 channels if you have the standard option with 8 wires in the connector hooker up to the speakers .
File below
Make the speakers click with a 9 volt battery , polarity not important for click test
If the original speakers the cone surround foam is most likely rotted and gone along with mounting foam
12-06-2018, 03:48 AM
Those folks over in X27 must be a bit upset to see you part with your XJ-S... an XJR-S no less! Although we are all much too polite to question you in any way. 
So, we all want to know: which car is faster and handles better??
