Hello to all,
How do you remove the door lock assembly/actuator unit from the inside of the door frame?
I have unhooked the electrical pig-tail, removed the three Torx screws from the edge of the door frame and unhooked the chrome door latch from the front of the door to slacken the latch cable.
What next? It looks like the lock assembly is unable to slide itself from around the rear door glass bracket.
Thanks.

 

I don't quite understand your question/description. The door lock actuator, as I understand it, is located inside the door itself. I posted something about this not too long ago, with some pics, which might be of help.

Ordinarily, to get at the lock mechanism etc. you have to remove the door card. The actuator and it's associated parts isn't inside the door frame. Can you explain better?

 

It will come out, you will need some beer and ideally small hands but it will come out after a lot of swearing and then wiggling it down and to the middle of the door.
Its one of these jobs I really don't like but had to do it once as I couldn't get the replacement door cable in the slot. Luckily managed to put it in first time with removing anything the second time I had to swap that cable.

 

Guys,
Thanks for your responses.
sogood,
Yes I have removed the door card to access the lock assembly/actuator unit located in the rear portion of the door. I unhooked the pig tail to the actuator, unhooked the door latch cable @ the front of the door to get some slack on the lock assembly and removed the three Torx screws holding the lock assembly/actuator to the door.
Now I still cannot remove the lock assembly/actuator from the inside of the door.
What is the next step to remove this unit? Inquiring minds want to know....

katar,"
I have the beer and some Irish whiskey. Small hands I do not have. I still cannot pull this "bloody" assembly up and out of the door. Any additionals details?

Thanks to you both.

 

You're almost there. The rear glass slide rail has a torx bolt at the lower end. Once removed the rail will move enough to allow clearance for the whole assembly to come out from the lower large opening. The inner door handle pull must be unhooked too. Be careful not to break any of the plastic catches that attach the rods to the mechanism.

 

I think it drops down, you slide along the bottom of the door and it comes out of the hole, not necessarily closest to the darn thing. Along the way, I think I had to spin it around. It was quite the feat figuring out how to get it BACK in. The window may need to be up all the way as well.

It was a while since I did mine, but it was a bit of a puzzle. It will come out.

 

For what it's worth, I have all these parts from a surplus donor car if there's anything you need. Just let me know and I can send them on. No charge.

 

SleekJag12,
Thanks for the info on the glass rail torx bolt. That's just what I needed.
And again, thanks to all of you that responded to my question.

 

Late to this party, but I just wanted to say thank you all for this. I’m going through the same hell, and this was a lifesaver.


* small hands? Nope.
* beer? Nope.
* patience? Nope.

Thankfully I’ve got tea and a love for Jags - can’t complain — a nearly 30 year old door actuator was bound to fail sooner or later.

Thanks guys, and all the best to you all.

 

Good thing to know is that the X300 and X308 latches are the SAME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!(more to choose from)